The Headcase Stax thread

[spritzer]

I would just leave them in if they work fine

[ericj]

When i pulled the main board out of my sra-3s further so i could work on it more comfortably i finally noticed that the reason the cards fell out in shipping was probably the fact that both slots were cracked at the bottom end. 

I've fixed them with superglue and wire ties, but it looks like you can still get a direct replacement: 

https://mou.sr/411lhxZ

[Oneguy]

53 minutes ago, ericj said:

When i pulled the main board out of my sra-3s further so i could work on it more comfortably i finally noticed that the reason the cards fell out in shipping was probably the fact that both slots were cracked at the bottom end. 

I've fixed them with superglue and wire ties, but it looks like you can still get a direct replacement: 

https://mou.sr/411lhxZ

Exact same issue on one of my SRA-3S slots. I used a zip and superglue as well. If I remember correctly there was also evidence of foam on the top lid that I assume was used to keep them in place. I wasn’t sure if this was like that from the factory or something another user added in along the way. Did yours have evidence of foam being glued to the lid where the cards are?
 

Good find on the replacement slot.

[ericj]

1 hour ago, Oneguy said:

Exact same issue on one of my SRA-3S slots. I used a zip and superglue as well. If I remember correctly there was also evidence of foam on the top lid that I assume was used to keep them in place. I wasn’t sure if this was like that from the factory or something another user added in along the way. Did yours have evidence of foam being glued to the lid where the cards are?
 

Good find on the replacement slot.

 

Ah, i used ~22awg solid copper and twisted the ends until it closed the sides with the superglue. I guess the drawer full of wire was closer than the container of zip ties. 

I kinda feel like cyanoacrylates aren't what they used to be -- "bonds instantly" used to mean i didn't have to clamp it for half an hour. sigh. 

I don't see evidence that there was foam holding them in at any point but i have some dense foam i will install. 

All of the resistors in my unit look fine to me. Nothing ran hot enough to show. I suppose i should lift a leg of the one big carbon comp resistor to see if it is still in spec. 

Can anyone fill me in on the adjustment procedure for the trimpots? 

[Oneguy]

1 hour ago, ericj said:

 

I kinda feel like cyanoacrylates aren't what they used to be -- "bonds instantly" used to mean i didn't have to clamp it for half an hour. sigh. 

 

I feel the same way. I buttoned it up after the glue and zip tie. If I eventually remember when I get back home, I may see how well it bonded and remove the zip tie but I am in no rush since it’s working without issues. 

[ericj]

1 hour ago, Oneguy said:

I feel the same way. I buttoned it up after the glue and zip tie. If I eventually remember when I get back home, I may see how well it bonded and remove the zip tie but I am in no rush since it’s working without issues. 

I would just leave the ties in place. There's no downside. The only reason I'm not tying the other end is because that might just mean it breaks somewhere harder to fix. 

[Pirx]

I have broken SRA-3s too, it is still waiting for my time.
What about creating independent topic for this amp for discussion?

[spritzer]

I would always recommend swapping out the card slots on these as they all fall apart.  Also, watch out for the transformers leaking... I found that out the hard way as they aren't grounded. 

Wasn't there just one pot per channel on these?  Should be the balance so go to each tube anode and adjust for 0VDC. 

[ericj]

11 hours ago, Pirx said:

I have broken SRA-3s too, it is still waiting for my time.
What about creating independent topic for this amp for discussion?

 

That sounds reasonable, maybe in the diy subforum? 

[spritzer]

Looks like the new 007 is inbound, here is the logo for the Fujiya Avic show in July:

and Stax just dropped this:

New headband with swivel function but the top of the 007 mounting plate there.  

[Oneguy]

Really hoping that they keep with a similar sound signature as the better versions of the prior one. 🍿

Edited yesterday at 10:59 AM by Oneguy

[padam]

By the look of the headband, I'm guessing they might call it SR-X7000.

[spritzer]

That is very plausible as they pretty much have to come up with a new name.  The price will probably double so it is terrible PR to make a Mk3 that is 300k+Yen.  

My fear is that they will use the bloody PEEK membranes so all the issues that come with those.  

[catscratch]

Interesting, but I also expect crappy tuning and 2x the price. Hopefully I'll be pleasantly surprised.

They need to revise the pad mounting mechanism too, I'm not an expert here but the spring in the middle of the driver thing seems stupid and I'm guessing that's where the resonances in the mids in the old version come from.

[spritzer]

It's funny how Stax have never managed to get the earpad mounting right, 009 system is just stupid, the L series even worse plus the pads turn to goo in 5 years.  The old adhesive did last when the more modern stuff didn't and leaks all over the place

The 007 pads are a pain to install (especially the new replacement units which are badly made and 5x the old price) but I like the spring idea to optimize imaging for different head sizes/shapes

[catscratch]

What do you think causes the double resonance in the mids though?

I may be the odd man out here cause I don't see too many others complain about it but to me it is very audible in the 2.5 and later models, but less so in the mk1.

[Kung]

Stax is very stingy with its accessories. Their product positioning strategy is that if the physical specifications of the drivers are similar, the more metal parts, the more adjustable headband functions, and the more leather used, the higher  position of the model. At least the headband of the new headphone looks more advanced than that of the 009s. Perhaps it’s a replacement for the 009s, named X8000 or X7000 as a new TOTL product that integrates old 00X series. 009s was launched 7 years after the release of the 009, 009s is now 7 years old and it is time for an upgrade.

[chinsettawong]

It’s SR-007S. 😁

https://stax.co.jp/product/sr-007s/

[padam]

5 hours ago, Kung said:

Perhaps it’s a replacement for the 009s, named X8000 or X7000 as a new TOTL product that integrates old 00X series. 009s was launched 7 years after the release of the 009, 009s is now 7 years old and it is time for an upgrade.

Priced lower than I'd expected, less than half of an X9000, so I'd expect an 009s successor to fit it that gap some day.

[Kung]

Damn, that is really disappointing, the diameter of the stator hole of the new headphone is reduced by 20%, which means the hole is reduced from 1mm on 007 to 0.8mm, the sound-transmitting surface of the stator looks to be larger, 007 was about 54-55mm, the new one looks to be over 60mm, the sensitivity must have been improved, the fabric on the inside of the earpads is breathable, which is probably used to maintain the warm tone of 007. 

[spritzer]

Yeah this isn't great but I just bought one... naturally.  I'm really worried about the strength of that swivel mount and the driver changes but I'd love to be proven wrong.  A bit cheaper than expected and now they just need to make a brown version of the replacement cable so we can fix the old Mk1's.  

Also new USB dac and phono stage for the T8000 but who cares really.  

[Kung]

If I were able to design new 007, I would use the ODM look shown in the pic,  add cable sockets and make the headrest wider, then keep low sensitivity driver with new etched copper stators and OG earpads to maintain the 007 appearance and wearing style while inheriting the vintage driver of stax，that can also keep different from 9 series. The now 007s just gives me a sense of Frankenstein。。。😶

 

[Oneguy]

2 hours ago, spritzer said:

Yeah this isn't great but I just bought one... naturally.  I'm really worried about the strength of that swivel mount and the driver changes but I'd love to be proven wrong.  A bit cheaper than expected and now they just need to make a brown version of the replacement cable so we can fix the old Mk1's.  

Also new USB dac and phono stage for the T8000 but who cares really.  

A brown cable would be nice and the swivel being black plastic annoys me. It should be the same brown as the leather to complete the look. The hodgepodge of black and brown on the 007S makes me think of a rebuilt mk1 instead of properly emulating the original look. 

[spritzer]

I agree, this is not a classy look, mixing and matching colors like this.  

[bwck2000]

It is interesting that the SR-007S is sharing the same OFC cable as the entry-level SR-X1, rather than the HiFC cable from Hitachi used in L300 / L500 let alone the silver plated ones.