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i'm on a roll... the kgsshv

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The Carbon is a SiC KGST, not a BHSE.  Whether some of the stuff that makes up the BHSE is necessary or even makes it better is something Kevin and I have discussed with no real result. 

 

Removing the tubes makes the amps much less likely to break down, in fact I run the Carbon 24/7...  :)

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  • After 5 years from the time I acquired the PCBs and parts, I finally took advantage of the free time created by the pandemic and completed my KGSSHV.  This is the offboard version with +/-500V supply.

  • Not sure if we have a KGSS thread but I'll just post this here.  So last year it dawned on me that I built my first KGSS amp 15 years ago and something had to be done to celebrate that.  It started of

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the taller caps are really useable in 3U boxes

 

Meaning that downgrading from 680uF caps is a bad idea, and therefore a 3U box is required?

Meaning that downgrading from 680uF caps is a bad idea, and therefore a 3U box is required?

Lay the caps flat, two layers a tad screwed ....they fit inside the 2U

  • Author

old power supply  (per rail)  (just the unregulated primary)

 

680uf x 2 caps in series, about 600v.  total energy storage  61 joules

 

new power supply 500v 1 x 680uf cap  total energy storage 85 joules

 

so you can certainly get away with 470uf which is 58 joules

and that one is only 60mm high

 

but if you are insane, you can go with the 1000uf cap which is still 40mm diameter

but 105mm high  and get 125 joules

 

I'm clearly a fan of overkill, but 125 joules is in the range of a heart defibrillator

 

(memories of Mikhail and his 4700uf/450V juice can caps)

run at almost 500v and then he put 2 In parallel

Edited by kevin gilmore

Point taken - of course my phono preamp only puts out a few measly volts.

Edited by JimL

Those boxes aren't all that great so I won't be touching them again.

What did you not like about the box? I am contempating getting a smaller one for my Carbon build.

Edited by mwl168

What did you not like about the box? I am contempating getting a smaller one for my Carbon build.

 

 I too have used those box's.

   The Anodising / Plating rubs off!

   I have several Dings in mine (They must have been packed like that as the box it arrived in was intact and i do not believe it was opened by customs).

  Three of the threaded holes had to be re-tapped, one of which was tapped on-the-piss. I had to run a drill through it (at 90deg) and re-tapped it so that the countersunk screws would sit properly.

  One of the air intake slots is out of alignment approx 5-6mm which is quite noticeable when all the others line up properly.

don't know how much PayPal matters when the qc on all the cases is garbage to begin with

If the delivered casework is shit, I'd sure as hell dispute the purchase to get all my money back.

sure that's totally fair, but I think that's what Birgir was kind of getting at. It's what I would be getting at after using as many chinese cases as I have

I know.

Believe me, I know about Chinese quality. :D

Some of the Chinese boxes are ok but the anodizing on all of them is shit... pure and utter shit.  I use a very strong cleaner to wash the Modushop stuff after drilling to degrease them but if I use that on any of the Chinese boxes... they turn green.  :palm: 

turning pure utter shit into green, sounds like your on to something  :laugh:

Great design with optocoupler in servo! Is it possible to implement this servo on the dynahi - if so I may give it a try...

Do you know what range of offset it could correct?

  • Author

for the kgsshv that opto servo has at least half the peak to peak range.

reason it exists is that its used as the current control in the latest version
of the circlotron.

thinking of applying latest ssdynalo design elements to the dynahi
but thats going to be a bit.

 

 

in other news, this is likely the final circlotron output stage, output stage current setable

with a pot.

 

http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/circlotronoutput.pdf

 

and then this

http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kgsshvcarboncirclotron.jpg

 

lots of realignment work to get this to match the driver board

Edited by kevin gilmore

to bring it back around to the regular hv...I had the boards and case lying around and I was able to find a new faceplate by itself-

d64c2e5251cbec343acae2e8782a7c20.jpg

for some reason it took me forever to figure out how to case all these into the galaxy box... how do I bolt down the edcor? hard to use the existing end bell holes without messing up the wires

I tore up my hand trying to punch an xlr in the back plate though... maybe I just need to resign to getting them machined now. are you supposed to clear the entire punch bolt with your hole or just the threaded part? I wasn't sure how to ensure the most centered punch hole.

Mount it in standoffs though the holes in the core.  That's what I did on Tyll's amp.  :)  Make sure you insulate the holes well though, they must not be grounded!!! 

 

What about mounting the small trafo on a side wall or indeed the back panel.  I'd prefer to keep the transformer in the back but that's just me.. 

I can go ahead and try to use the insulators that were attached to the end bells.

 

I don't get clearance for the schaffner inlet then (what I had on hand). That's why I only drilled out a light hole on the front. I do want to put the transformer closer to a supporting foot though...

  • Author

if you are having power supply boards made

make sure the board files have todays date on them

or later.

 

the new capacitor footprint should take care of any

possible cap you can shove in there.

Speaking of the new power supplies: what is the procedure for adjusting the output voltage? Unlike the KGSSHV or KGST-mini, no zener string on these (except for the bias one).

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