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Since I can't afford a 392 Wrangler, and really don't care for the stock Rubicon shocks, I did the next best thing... Swapped in a set of like-new take-off Jeep 392 Fox shocks. Soooooooo much better. The stock shocks were way too soft, and Jeep would rock so much when shifting, and brake dive was horrible. These are firmer and took care of those things without making the ride harsh at all. I also finally got my 1901 Maine state flag fender vent decals on. I mean, it's still not a V8 Wrangler, but stickers add more HP anyway, so I figure I must be ahead.

Do VTEC stickers work on Jeeps as well?

Check out this gallery from Detroit Free Press: Michigan native makes headphones for anxious dogs https://www.freep.com/picture-gallery/news/local/michigan/detroit/2022/06/28/michigan-native-makes-headphones-anxious-dogs/7602013001/

1. Don't mess around with work holding. Either get it clamped right or do an adhesive method. You do not want to experience the carnage of a workpiece coming free. 2. Similar to #1, I fully support the pause until the machine is built right. It's kind of insane to be running it otherwise but maybe the missing bolts aren't in key places? (fingers crossed) 3. For anodized aluminum marking you should look at a laser. I saw the one you posted above but didn't watch the video. There are lots of them and used in conjunction with your CNC would likely but far better than an engraving bit in terms of speed and flexibility. The other thing to consider would be a diamond drag bit, but those are very slow. Some cool possibilities but mega machine time required. 4. My personal approach is to not push feeds and speeds. Just about any mistake/error with a CNC is catastrophic to either the material, tool, or worse. Why risk it to save minutes? It's not like you're trying to maximize a production rate in a shop. Attempt patience. Caveat - I lose mine all the time, YMMV, etc.

Joey Alexander -- freakin' CHILD good at jazz under 20 and already has 6 albums out? WTAF

Didn't see that coming. 😄

BTW, that’s the soundtrack for the short that led to the feature. If you haven’t seen the short…

I demo'd Holo May and Spring KTEs with a two-box streamer made by my country's Holo distributor. I did not get to do proper A/B testing, but I heard almost none or no difference compared my Node and RME DAC. With the May, definitely a difference, but nowhere near the price difference--I left the demo feeling much much more confident about my setup as-is. Disclosures: I have almost zero experience, zero engineering or audio knowledge, and my opinions should not be taken without salt. My setup (Node, RME, balanced Mogami interconnects, a powerstrip with Faraday cage enclosures, and a Carbon) may or may not induce cackles--they are welcome if they are wrapping for advice. And...I use ALL the tinkering features the RME provides, and I get a sound that is pretty close to what I imagine is my hearing ceiling. I use a Soren Brix-build Carbon. I was looking at the Chord Dave and TT2 as well...until I stumbled upon the thread here about Chord Dave...

New remaster. https://music.apple.com/us/album/money-for-nothing-2022-remaster/1623501105

I know you're travelling, but hope the day and/or celebration is great!!!

I knew that was some kind of heterosexual code!

It's more power than BHSE, but not by much. There isn't really much point. There are already several competing tube amps that put out less voltage swing than STAX's entry level amps. Pushing the envelope on component specs to achieve another fraction of a dB more output wasn't the goal. as for the price, well over 10k. there is absolutely no way this amp wouldn't be. I could exceed that in bill of materials easily. How much is the MSB, 40k? The Sennheiser HE1 w/ headphone is $59k. The Shangri-la Sr w/ amp is $50k. This will be much, much less than either of those and sound better with SR-X9000 or CRBN.

Prince and the Revolution - Live Recorded at the pinnacle of the Purple Rain tour. This one rocks.

A box with some dirt in it Pre box, pre dirt