chinsettawong

Congratulations!

Yes. Be very careful. But even if it's broken, you can replace it with Mylar. I can't hear any difference. Mylar is a lot stronger too.

I don't think the diaphragm can go bad that easily. I have opened up many headphones with the imbalanced issue (including my own DIY sets), and I have never seen a burnt diaphragm just yet. For some reasons, even a small arc spot on the diaphragm can cause the driver to sound lighter. The quick and easy fix is to recoat it. About the diaphragm material, I don't know what Stax uses. But, I am quite sure that your diaphragm is still good so there is no need to worry about replacing it. What you might need to replace could be the dust covers. They are extremely fragile. Wachara C.

Hi! If you are not afraid to disassemble your drivers, fixing the imbalance problem isn't that difficult. Most of the times, recoating the diaphragms solve it all. I can help you guys with any problem you have. Just let me know. Wachara C.

Wow. That's super nice!

Very nice!

Congratulations!

Nice work Bui501. Really like you case work. About the DIY headphones, I'm always around if you should need any help. Wachara C.

Your amp looks really nice. Please show us the underside as well. About the volume, it might have something to do with your source putting out too soft sound too. Please check.

Thanks. I make these headphones to use with Stax compatible amps. The spacer thickness is 0.5 mm and bias voltage is 570V.

No, I don't have a clean room. I always spray paint my stators and it helps a lot with the noises. Here is my DIY version compares with the real JF.

Which part do you like to see? These are my stator and spacer.

Imbalance problem often comes from a small arc spot on the diaphragm. First, I would open the driver up and check the diaphragm. Most of the time, the arc spot is pretty obvious. You need to check which side of the diaphragm is coated. A simple way to check is to use your finger to lightly rub the diaphragm. The side that is coated will leave a trace when you rub. The arc spot normally only affect the coated side. Since the coating material stays on the surface of the diaphragm, if the spot isn't too large, you can just wipe the spot off using a lint free cloth. When you rub, the coating on the diaphragm recoats itself. That's how I fix my driver. However, if it still doesn't work, then I will recoat the diaphragm. But when I do that I normally recoat the diaphragms on both drivers so that I'll have equal sound.

Nicely done, Kerry.

That's so beautiful.

I can fix it for you.

You can also put a thick coat of woman's clear nail paint over the nearby copper traces. The nail paint is a good insulator.

Whatever your driver problem is, I might be able to help you.

Why would you want to have 007 drivers in a 009?

Sorry, I don't know how to use a scope. Anyway, I learned about the leaky resistors from reading this thread. I then changed all my PRP resistors in the batteries to a local brand resistors and the problem was fixed.

You hear noises - lots of noises.

In my case, it's the problem of leaky resisters.

Have you changed out all the resisters in the batteries? On mine, I changed all the resisters and the problem was fixed.

That's DIY T2's chassis, isn't it? Nice work.

Very beautiful!