Pars

Thanks. I had figured the 1N4007s were there to protect something, but hadn't ohmed or traced them out yet. And "DOH" on the LED/2K resistors Kevin had noted an updated schematic, but what I see in the schematic posted previously still shows mj15024/15025 TO-3 devices, no protect diodes, etc.

Sorry to hear about your classmate Wayne. RIP. Sad story...

Link the same as the previous? EDIT: Also, a couple of questions: 1) The 1N4007 diodes are not shown in the schematic. Could I use 1N4001/4002 here (have them on hand)? I'll trace them out on the board to figure out where they are, unless they are in the updated schematic. 2) The 2K resistors (R13/R14) and the LED between the + and - output: what is their purpose? I noticed that Kevin had not put the LED in, and others completed boards as well were missing these. A dummy load for testing?

Looks nice Marshall! Good ride?

Yep, that gave me a chuckle this morning

Best thread title evah (IMHO)...

Who is Bascom King? Never heard of him... apparently has/had something to do with Infinity?

NPN MOSFETS? Heh...

In the 4th pic, the TO220 C4686 in the center doesn't look like it is soldered. Soldering on some of the radial 100K resistors looks suspect also.

I just recall the wet tantalums back in the '80s would blow'd up real good, bubba And start on fire, with silver shit coming out of them. Generated a distrust in them, to say the least.

Big enough tip on your iron (3.2mm is what I have) and a good soldersucker, something like this Edsyn Soldapullt I got mine at Frys.

I've noticed that the BOM for this, as well as for some of the KGSSHV Carbon stuff, uses large value tantalum caps (47uf/25V), for which there are also ceramic MLCC X7R alternatives available. Any reason for using the tantalums as it would seem that the ceramics would have advantages, price being one of them? For example the tantalum 47uf 25V 581-TAP476K025CCS @$3.13 could be replaced with a Murata 81-RDEC71E476MWK1C3B @$2.13 MLCC ceramic. Just curious...

Happy Birthday!

Happy Birthday!

The input wiring is more susceptible to noise than the output wiring as the signal levels are lower. Having the RK50 at the rear keeps the input wiring shorter, so theoretically should be better. Mouser does have cable hold downs like you pictured. http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=644-CCH12-S10-M

Happy Birthday Jim!

Could you use something like a dental pick in the screw holes to pry behind the driver frame? You can usually pick these up cheap at hardware stores like Ace, etc.

RIP Yogi. What a great one!

Those look very nice. Now wrap them back up so you can open them later in the week to duplicate the Christmas-like atmosphere...

You can also get Panasonic FM or FR with the right footprint as well

I've tried this a couple of times (R+C across the secondary), but have never tried to measure it. 330 ohms and 0.022uf. See John Swenson's posts here: http://www.diyhifi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=1957&hilit=transformer+ringing

Happy Birthday Stretch!

Happy belated birthday!

Never tried using either a cordless drill or my drill press to tap holes. Any links to how you do this? I always figured it was a quick route to broken taps... I had a couple on my puter. One seems to be lil knights...

Got mine as well. Thanks for the great job handling this group buy Michael!