Pars

http://www.vt4c.com/shop/program/main.php?cat_id=6&group_id=2 http://www.thlaudio.com/indexE.htm Usually have some nice offerings. And yes, you are most likely going to need to drill to 8mm, and possibly retap the setscrew hole.

but do you have a BOM available for what it is you are ordering for resistors? This is for a 10K attenuator, or do you have multiple variants in mind? 10K is what I would be interested in.

What is in the Dig. Att. Kits? The boards I have are the first version, so don't use the MAX chips, but I could be interested in the resistors, etc.

The cap value is right on the board... 0.022uf, or 22nf... this is for the diode bridge replacement board. 1 cap, small. The values you have listed suggest you think this is the PSU board itself.

Teflon SPC, like the stuff from NavShips on ebay is what I use. 24ga for signal, 20ga or maybe 18ga for power stuff. http://stores.ebay.com/johnssilverplatedptfewireshop?rmvSB=true

Happy Birthday Nate!

Did you have a particular SMD cap package in mind? Let me know and I will add it.

Happy Birthday Craig!

Of course it is possible. I won't be doing it because I already ordered some, and couldn't get this version run because I had already submitted the version quoted. I could put it in and send you either the eagle files or the gerbers if you want. Ooops, Seeeds gerber viewer doesn't appear to be working tonight so can't post a pic. Vertical mounted version, like the ones I home-etched for my Dynalo.

The schematics were available on Kevin's site, but I attached it here anyhow. As for opamp, I use TL071 or 81; from the discrete I/V stages I've built, both work well. The TL-08x seems to pull the offset down the lowest of anything I have tried, though I did not compare it to the OPA445 (I do have some of those though). kgdynalobalssproduction.pdf

Hard to say. I take it that things went fine when booting in recovery mode (Cmd-R)? That might rule out a logic board problem

Just a quick search thru this thread, there is a BOM in this post. This is an SMT BOM, so should be good. And it is 22 ea. ptza06/56 for a stereo board pair, so 11 ea. per board.

Happy Birthday Naaman!

Happy Belated Birthday Dan!

mwl168 did a run of them awhile ago, probably the newer SMD version. The TO92 silicon is not available anymore; I was probably one of the last to build that version and got lucky on finding some. He will probably weigh in on whether he has any left or not. Otherwise, someplace like seeedstudio could run boards for you for pretty cheap. The later board runs seem to use heavier copper (2oz and sometimes 4oz), but I've never had any problems with 1oz copper boards even with some rework. Kevin has the board files on his site. I see dynalobal12 dynalobal13 dynalobal15 dynalobal17 Not sure what the differences are between them; would have to search the thread.

Happy Birthday Steve!

That would have been great! Happy Birthday Colin!

^ I know... so un-headcase though Wheres the fuckin' shovel...

I use TL-071 or TL-081 for singles (or 72s and 82s for duals). From testing opamps in a discrete I/V stage (0 feedback, so touchy), these seem to pull the offset in faster and lower than the OP27s I had do. Particularly the 08x. I believe Justin used to use these in the GS-1 and probably in the GSX as well.

Happy Birthday!

I would think it to be more tolerable on a commuter. For general riding, it somewhat defeats the purpose why you are out there.

Happy Birthday Jeff!

I don't think you really need a high power resistor for this. http://www.diyhifi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=1957#p41696 I have a bunch of MKP1837 caps laying around. I'll have to measure them but used a 7.5 x 5.5 mm Wima outline, 5.08mm LS for it. I usually just solder these on the bottom of the board, but figured since I was laying the board out anyway...

Yes, those are them. Damn, that is a good price... don't know if I need any tires or not right now. They are supposed to be coming out with these in a 700x28, which I seem to be gravitating towards anymore. Used to ride 23s and 25s.

Clinchers (i.e., open tubulars): http://www.veloflex.it/products/open_tubulars.asp?lang=en When I've ordered from Wiggle here in the US, I didn't have to pay customs (or VAT) or anything else. A pair of Conti 4Seasons w/tubes for ~$90 shipped. Arrived in a week. Not sure how this will go where you are, but something to be aware.of. I used to ride tubulars back when I started riding in the '70s. Clinchers back then really sucked. I used Clement Criteriums (230g) cotton cased tires. Back then, they were around $25/ea., which was expensive for me being in school. Blowing a pair of tires really sucked financially I had a pair of clincher wheels build in around 1980 and switched permanently then. I do have a pair of tubular wheels and have used then once or twice. They still ride as nice as I remember.