Pars

Replaced the door latch in my wife's Honda. Door would not open; this was a fun job getting the door panel off without damage while the door was shut, but with my youngest son's help, we got it done. No drilling/cutting necessary. Found the right pin to actuate on the old latch to get it to release and get the door open, then replaced the latch. All is well now. Would have run around $800 at the dealership, and they would probably have drilled it out.

I had already sent that plus the full delivery header to abuse at comcast. They haven't responded yet. I don't think my email has been hacked, but I could be wrong.

Wasn't sure where to put this one, so I posted it here. I got an Undeliverable response for an email which I did not send. It appears a user in Seoul is using my email address (with a capitalized 1st letter)? Anyone more savvy at headers see anything else here? Removed per dusty

Happy Birthday!

Happy Birthday guys!

Good luck!

Sounds like a lot of work, but probably appropriate. I had to google Hellermann sleeves... tyton or rubber? Not sure these are available in the US from my brief search.

Could you measure across each one of them to see what they are actually dropping? Might only have one bad one. Also, what are typical zener tolerances? 5%? I guess that would result in around 551V if all were 5% low.

^ this

From the blackhole thread (interesting amp, I musta missed that one), it appears that you went with the Ohmite heatsinks but didn't document which one... Maybe a 588-C247-025-1AE ? You had an Aavid clip part number listed; it looks like the Ohmite sinks come with clips?

I'll be running it uncased for awhile, so need something until I case it. Bottom panel sounds like an idea then though

Hmmmm... I was going to do about the same thing as Michael, though I was planning on 20V outputs with 22/23V toroid. Must look up this blackhole amp driver to see what heatsinks I will need to get.

This. RIP Mr. Sundaram.

Got a mirror? Look in it... there's your sourcing. Also, read your welcome PM.

The OWC enclosures look nice but are expensive (~$60) vs. competitors. I guess if they actually work... They seem to have discontinued the USB-only ones in favor of combined USB/800 FW or USB/eSata (+$$). StarTech seems to have some decently reviewed offerings; might try one.

Thanks for the rec; I had looked at the mini stack enclosures and thought about going that way, but yeah they are expensive. I went to Fry's yesterday and bought a WD Black 1TB 3.5" for $60 for backup; my previous WD Green 2T crapped out. Nice of it I bought a Sabrent EC-3US25 USB3 enclosure there but I need to return it. It mounts then disappears. The USB connector is flaky. Any recs on USB3 2.5" drive enclosures that you like? I was thinking maybe a Patriot Gauntlet 2 or 3, or possibly a SIIG (of the ones that Frys carries).

Yes, thanks for the info as well. I still kinda miss not having an optical drive, so I am leaning towards buying a Mac Mini format enclosure with an optical drive and the capacity to put another HDD (or more) in it as well. Any recs there would be appreciated as well.

I finally got around to upping the RAM in my 2012 Mac Mini 6,2 to 16G (Crucial had $10 off; I was just going to buy a single 8G stick and run 10G but it wasn't much more to go to 16G). My brother gave me a 250G Samsung 840 EVO SSD to put in it and wanted some recs as to how to go about doing this: Just replace the existing 1T HDD (250G is large enough for me as a single and only drive)?Use an OWC Data Doubler kit and put both drives in?Other?

Happy Birthday Marc!

I would think that it would work fine, though maybe Kevin's attenuator or even Amb's might be a better choice? There is a group buy for Kevin's attenuator about to commence.

Glad you and Allison are OK Bryan! Scary shit, especially when it is that close!

Happy Birthday!

Happy Birthday!

Happy Birthday to both of you!

I'm certainly no expert, but the production kgsshv schematic I have shows a pair of 1k resistors R3/R4 feeding the bases of Q1/Q2 (2sc4686a). 180R resistors (R5/R6) hang off the emitters of Q3/Q4 (2sc4686a). Not sure if the 1K resistors you are seeing are R3 and R4 in the schematic? If so and if the current boards match the schematic I have, you don't want to jumper them. Hopefully Birgir or Kevin or someone else more knowledgeable will weigh in here