Pars

Happy Birthday! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Happy Birthday! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Happy Birthday! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Only the input - channel should be tied to ground, NEVER the output - channels. In effect you would be shorting the output devices to ground which probably wouldn't make them very happy:) For SE output only the + signals and signal ground should be used. That said, on my SS Dynalo Mk2, I have both RCAs and XLR inputs, with a toggle switch to tie the - inputs to ground for SE input via the RCAs. I don't hear a difference when using SE input and unshorting the - inputs via the switch. Maybe I need to listen more closely? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well sure he "sacrificed" Birgir... a lot of people's money. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hmmm... "once I had been able to establish a robust company with excellent products." Guess that never happened... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For both Jose and penmarker: if you are only using an ss dynahi in SE mode, why even populate the - channels? All they are doing is burning power... Even then, the - inputs would be tied to ground, as done in the original dynahi /dynalo. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Happy Birthday Vicki!

Use a 5 pin XLR and ignore the Sony bullshit Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Your hand drawn diagram above appears to be correct, and does the same thing that the Neutrik RCA->XLR adapters do (tie the - signal to gnd). For wiring interconnects, etc., many tie the shield to the - side conductor, sometimes at one end only (telescoping ground). This is for noise rejection. For the pot wiring, if looking at most pots from the front with pins down, the furthest R of the 3 pins per gang is the input, and equates to the signal in your drawing on the left side of the pot. The middle pin is the wiper, and equates to the right side of your drawing. The pin furthest L is the gnd or common pin.

Haven't seen the ad, so didn't get the reference...

An engine doesn't REQUIRE power, it MAKES power. Not sure what you are trying to get at with your quote...

Appears to have the usual items necessary to generate hype: 1) fancy case - check 2) bullshit bingo laced ad copy - check 3) high price (so you know it's gotta be good) - actually not too bad at $1400 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Really digging this band... thanks!

Thanks Kevin, The SuSy architecture must be fairly subtle in terms of it versus your normal differential balanced. Here is what I had for a schematic for the dynafet balanced vs. the SS dynalo (input sections only): I'll quit crapping on the stax mafia thread also.

A bit curious about this one (agree with the rest). You're talking about the ground pins on the pot (1 per gang)? Pots work basically as a voltage divider with a resistance from the input to the wiper, and another from the wiper to ground. Not connecting the ground leaves this resistance floating. I always run these to amp ground (Not chassis). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are the SS DynaFet gerbers available? Couldn't find at the link in spritzer's 5/10 post, nor Kevin's 9/4 post. Were the balanced Dynahi and FET boards done in 2011 for Lil'Kinghts GB the SS versions? They look like it, but I could be wrong... I attached the schematic I have. What FETs were these targeted for? The BOM he had showed 2SJ76/2SK213s, but for some reason (availability), I thought the last version used something else? dynafetschembal.pdf

Why are you concerned about using the 15V supply for this? Minuscule current draw if it is just the switch LED. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

An all in one would be nice, with some sort of PCB mounted xfmr. Seems like the EI-30 types that Amb spec'd are harder to find these days. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry for you loss Wayne, and RIP Bill!!

That looks interesting Marc. Keep me informed as I might be interested in this approach.

Revisiting this again (lighted vandal type power switch). For the DynaFet, if I used a latching switch such as Birgir uses (250V 5A rating), though it is simple, the AC wiring from the IEC to the switch would need to run right under a GRLV in the front, which I don't really want to do. Using an e24 (and probably the o24 transformer board) mounted back by the IEC, only DC wiring would go to a momentary switch (Bulgin, eSwitch or the like) in the front. IEC would be switched and power the o24/e24. A power relay (the Omron G8P-1A2T-F-DC12 recommended isn't available, so maybe a G7L series Omron) would be run off the e24 to power the main transformer/GRLV. I know john uses the e24s a lot. How many use this or something similar, vs. the latching direct AC-switches?

Happy Birthday!

Silca always made good shit, even back in the day. Still have a couple of their frame pumps and a track pump with Columbus tubing. Pumping a sew-up on the road to 120+ psi was a workout, but quite doable [emoji4] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds like the consensus was t-POS... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk