luvdunhill

just bought one. we'll see.

Nice work! Did you remember to teat the LEDs and what not before installing them? I found 2 duds out of the bag of one I had.

Ah, just wanted to make sure that big long trace past the pour didn't rely in the solder mask as insulation, but sounds like this isn't the case. Very nice, I really like it.

You might want to take some time and convince yourself whether or not the Xicon resistors are magnetic... That would be the main reason not to use them in my opinion.

It's tomorrow somewhere in the world, isn't it?

They're prett finacky. I you have to compress them, insert them, let them expand then repeat 3 times until they get a good fit. I far prefer the hard JH material, despite TMJ problems. I finally had luck with the molds made at a half-open mouth position using cotton dams, if that helps at all.

Get in the car now! But I'm in Dallas now though...

If you don't have a variac, rig up something with a lightbulb. I would definitely not power it up directly connected to mains...

Not worth the fustration IMHO.

I suppose a RF Class C SET amp could exist? Not for audio purposes though..

I'm assuming blue is the bottom layer?

Cool, good news!

Kevin and Birgir: I'm assuming this design is something that you feel comfortable seeing the light of day? I mean, wasn't the active battery circuit the one piece of the circuit that the designer felt was novel? I know you were protecting some parts of the T2 design in honor of the designer and just wasn't sure if this was one of them.

I figured that and totally agree that 99% of people use the F1 where it shouldn't be used. Now, I'd have to reevaluate that assertion if we're talking about the F1J. Kevin, the F5 I think would be fine with the most inductive speaker load you can through at them... even if you remove some of the protections in the circuit.

that's a relief. The vast number of possibilities one is faced with when doing a rewire can be daunting.

Played with my bandsaw. Had to completely dial it in, but at the end I was able to make some nice accurate cuts, including a veneer that was 1/32" thick x 4" x 12". There was a bit of taper, but that is probably normal but I don't think I could dial it in more if I tried. After that was finished I cut some material for a tweeter enclosure and it's glueing up now.

I dunno, I'm skeptical in the same way that I really love Horowitz but so damn many are horrible recordings.

I'm keen to support the better "deal" perhaps there won't be any deals to be had in the next few weeks, but then again... perhaps there will...... edit: damn there are some nice looking stuff at the second link. Maybe I don't need a "set" and just could grab 1 or 2. Any recommendations?

I thought more about this. I doubt this would happen. Do you feel the thermal compensation and current limiting in the design is some how inadequate? Also, are you aware that there are, what, 7 First Watt designs? Not all of them are current sources.

It's a DC-coupled 2-stage current source amp with a complementary MOSFET common source output stage with feedback. What would you suggest that it would do bad with?

I think the issue is many people prefer lots of distortion so when they're given a simple DC coupled amp they're a bit underwhelmed. Sort of the same story that we see every day around here when people get into 'stats.

Also Shun or knaves in general.. ( heh, knives )

which other tables have you owned?

That J-Keny douche has made his way into headphone circles?

In the egg I assume? I'm going to have to get a few recipes. I'm (un)fortunately nearly 100% swine these days, but after I get another grill I'll want to revisit a number if different things