luvdunhill

why not just couple the heat sink to the top instead of drilling all those little holes? you have a large chunk of aluminum right there to help dissipate heat! Did you actually use the mounting holes on the sides of the PCB? They're on the drawings, so I assumed so. Are they really needed?

yeah, I ordered it and noticed the same thing

Mine too. I kitted the other half of a kit and things are looking pretty good. I noticed I'm missing a fuse, and it doesn't seem to be on the BOM. Any recommendations? Also, those case tops need a bit of grease, mine was impossible to move by hand even... Do either of you guys have a FPE file I could use as a template to cut the end panels?

nice!

Inu, nice! Would you mind sharing who did the power coating to a fellow Texan?

I'm assuming that's the "major diameter"? I thought they had square pins...

when you were standing and line and brought this issue up, did the people that just showed up apologize to you, or did they just pretend nothing had happened?

Damn those people that just think they can just show up and everything will be okay! These type of things require proper planning, don't they realize that?

Thanks Doug!

Ah I should have looked here first. In fact the cap I'm looking at is rated 200VDC...

I cannot seem to find a voltage anywhere on the schematic, so ... what's the minimum safe voltage for the big film caps?

yeah, I've used those in the past too... hm. Good idea!

does anyone know of a chassis mount, screw down barrier strip (like Cinch makes) that has an integrated (or optional) plastic safety cover?

lusting after knobs is perfectly fine around here... NTTIAWWT...

cannot seem to find my female 4-pin XLR to TRS adapter. I sent a last ditch effort PM to someone that might have it, as I was pissed that I forgot to order the parts to make another one yesterday. Anyone have a nice one on hand that they might like to send to a new home?

Yeah, I noticed that as well and tried to adjust the quantities. In my case, I actually was ordering two of everything, so it was confusing that it actually was correct The differences between Doug's list and Tom's list are subtile. MKP4 versus MKP10 caps, generic diodes, etc. so, it might be worthwhile to look at both lists. The only point of confusion I had was the power ratings for R4L, R4R, so I fully intend to check the schematic out when I'm building it and verify this one. Also, don't order the headphone jack and pot from Mouser if you ordered the 1/2 kit, almost made that mistake. Also, I didn't order any heat sinks.. it might be worthwhile to add that to Tom's BOM, as I didn't realize this until after I place the order... but I should have some on hand hopefully that will fit.... Anyways, parts are incoming!

different speed of light constant in Cinci?

Thanks Doug! What would be the most helpful for me to know would be the parts that are not available the vendor that has the majority of the parts (if that makes sense). That way I can work those into any upcoming part orders at Digikey, PE, etc.

Perhaps give Arrow a ring. They show it out of stock, but they've always been able to work with me on minimum order quantities (I notice that Digikey has a 6000 MOQ)

I'm a recording engineer as well. I did my first 1M mark about 15 years ago. Grado's sound like shit. Try a Stax 4070.

first I've heard about this is it for certain?

do they have the "double layer" on the reverse side, to accommodate both the mk1 and mk2? If you look at the installation guide, printed on the inside flap of the box you should see what I mean.

ha! Cool Looking Schiit - Page 3 - Head-Fi.org Community

Buy more. I started buying them in the midst of the first big price hike. At least get one with the nicer idler wheel (the metal one with more than two holes).

Hm, that's debatable, right? Swapping to disk is much slower than degraded memory access time...