n_maher

I hope to be watching it later tonight in glorious high-def.

Where does Todd say he'll only consider a balanced amp? He asked for suggestions for the LCD-3 (sort of) and used the Mjolnir as a starting point.

This seems like a decent deal - http://www.ttvjaudio.com/Apex_High_Fi_Audio_Arete_p/aaa0000011.htm.

This. And Shelly, how does it sound?

Nice Mike. I'm jealous, today is the warmest it's been all week at 15F.

Yup, that's the 4-pin layout that I've always used and if you ever need confirmation just look up the K1000 manual, that's where it all started as far as I can remember.

Congrats Vicki, wish I could say the same but given the recent refi I'm now just about as far away from paying it off as I've ever been...

Gazelle it.

Working on a little sumpin'. Al, hopefully a little pain now means less in the long run.

I thought you couldn't file until the 31st this year? I'm still waiting on mortgage interest info... Me - finally made it to the audiologist.

Good to know you're still around, Kerry. Don't be such a stranger.

Thanks Doug, that's good to know.

PM sent!

The part that I've used in the past is FQPF8N80C. They're in stock at Mouser but I'm just trying to avoid another order, if I can help it.

Parts help needed - somehow in my last Mouser order I forgot the 2 N-channel MOSFETs that I need for a KGSS power supply. Anyone have a couple spares kicking around that they could send my way. They are, predictably, the last two damn parts that I need to fully stuff the boards... @c12 - I do have a one of the 4ch alphas if you are still interested. Just drop me a line and we'll figure something out.

Define cheap.

Even top plates need love too. What I've found to help keep costs down is to not infill the engraving. Using a black panel makes it very easy but I was pretty happy with the silver on silver as well. It helps if you can use your own material but still, even those prices are pretty reasonable from both CE and FPE. That said, I did an awful lot of building using only a cordless drill and a single stepped drill bit. Chassis punches definitely help bridge the gap if a drill press ends up not being an option.

1. You can get the SKILL thru Amazon for $117, shipped free if you're a prime member and use the HC link to throw some $$ at Todd. 2. I agree that the lack of a worklight is a bummer. Even in a pretty well-lit shop I still loved having a light on my drill press and used temporary solutions on the milling machine to be able to see well enough. 3. How many panels do you have to do? While I clearly love doing things myself when it comes to panels, I'm pretty content these days to draw them up and send them to Heinz (camexpert) and have him do it. Even for pretty complex pieces I'm usually into them for less than $60 (if I already own the material) and the end product is much nicer than I could ever produce even when I had a multi-thousand dollar milling setup.

Happy Birthday, Mike!

Anyone heard from Kerry lately?

If all the tubes flashed they would all be bad. The light from one filament, running at a significantly higher voltage than it wants, was probably enough to make it look like they were all lighting up. I once wired a transformer wrong and put the full HV winding on a tube (woops) so I've actually seen what it sounds like you experienced. My experience with tubes is still pretty limited despite having built several projects using many different kinds but in all that time I've never had a tube misbehave like you described. I suppose that it's possible, but if these are new, barely used tubes it seems somewhat unlikely.

Sounds like for some reason the HV shorted to the filament. That's the only thing I've ever seen make a tube go into headlight mode. Could have been a flaky tube but make sure that you don't have anything actually shorting out near that tube. It'd be a bummer to start blowing through EL34s, even cheap ones. Nice looking build though. All the posts here and in the main DIY thread have kicked me in the pants enough to start working on my lowly KGSS again...

Happy birthday, Grahame!

The only downside to dual primaries is cost. Birgir, how are you implementing the latching switches? I thought that most of these weren't capable of switching the voltage and/or current levels that we need them to. Or am I just over thinking this? [edit]I just looked at the specs of one of the 22mm Bulgin latching switches, clearly I'm wrong since they're rated for 250VAC/5A which should be sufficient on the primary side of most headphone amps.