n_maher

I did. It worked once and then stopped working for the rest of the night.

I am about to have a week were none of my WR or RB's score more than 3 points unless MJD has a heck of a second half. FML

A final few parting shots, since I'm now done with this project. Overall - for what it's worth the exposed surfaces all were finished by brushing with 0000 steel wool (the mini-flexi is my new monitor stand for work) Bottom - after the second go at counter sinking the panel is now flush. The dark line you're seeing is actually the concavity of the bottom of the chassis. I actually had to countersink the knob too, since there's so much exposed threaded shaft from the pot. Innards - hopefully I have this setup correctly for resistor bias (please correct me if I don't) Minor Quibble - in the final version you guys need to find a way to make it so that builders don't have to trim the heatsink Otherwise I think that Doug has done a great job with the design of this amp. I'm enjoying it right now as I type this.

Easily one of my favorite movies.

My condolences, Shelly, it looks like you guys gave him a great life.

Yup, ESPN convinced me to bench Maclin, who promptly scored 31. :gasface:

Worst Week Ever I may have to resign.

Oh, I definitely wouldn't be counting on either the adhesive or a threaded portion of plastic. I'd definitely through bolt with lock nuts for the proposed application.

I made a homer mistake by playing Brady and my running back core is god-awful.

I think with one on both side of the cap at at least two locations along the length of the cap they could make a very good hold down system. Horizontal cap clamps are few and far between in my experience.

I expect to lose to Brent this week, despite the fact that he played a player on the bye.

Yup, for wire bundles it'd work, but I'm thinking more of big motor run oil or film applications.

So as I mentioned before I was having some fit issues with the overall build. The result of that was that the bottom of the front panel looked like this. That was unacceptable in my book and I wanted to see if I could at least make it better if not go away entirely. The solution, countersink the back of the front panel to allow the body of the pot to nest into it. So I mounted the panel in the vise on the mill, measured the pot body (just over 1/2" in diameter for the part that was binding on the front panel) and selected a 5/8" diameter end mill. Unfortunately I wasn't able to completely cure the problem, the countersink would have been uncomfortably deep, so I decided to go with roughly half the panel depth as my max and see how it worked. The gap on the bottom is now less than half of what it was and is something I can live with. Moreover it was a proof of concept of something that I'd be wanting to try ever since I got the mill, namely that even after drilling and unmounting a panel I can remount, recenter and counter bore with good accuracy. This will be a nice bullet to have in the gun for future use. [edit] Decided that I was being too much of a kitty cat and counter sunk the pot into the panel a bit more, fit is now really good. I also found two 1/4" male/female standoffs in the parts bin which work perfectly for supporting the pcb around the tubes so those went in too. Now I just have to solder in the two 221ohm resistors to lower the CCS resistor and I'll be done.

Happy Birthday guys!

Is that cover completely sealed? If so, that's a bad idea in my opinion.

Variable AC Output Transformer MAX.20A (Metered Variac) - eBay (item 120631655275 end time Nov-07-10 14:34:08 PST)

Thanks for that advice Marc, I actually need to pick some of these up.

I'm not sure I would trust a threaded part like that given how thin they are. But you could always just tap the holes that are there for the next larger screw. I'm guessing that they'd accept a 6-32 tap, but it depends on the model as some I've seen have already had holes that large.

Excellent, Boo, glad to hear you had/are having a good day.

After having them I would not drive a 2wd car in NH without them. Actually, the ones we got for my wife's car (non-studded) are quiet enough that we just run them year round right now.

There's a reason it only has 28k on it, it never runs long enough to rack any up. Also, if you're going to own one it'd have to be silver.

A very Happy Birthday to the both of you!

Thanks guys! Tom could you summarize the new recommended CCS settings?

I'll try to remember to email it to you tonight or upload it and post a link.

I took the tube hole distances off of Tom's drawings, double checked them and they seemed good so I went with it. They are 1" diameter holes, be very careful if you use a stepped bit that big even in a drill press. Make sure you've got the panel held very securely and run the machine as fast as it'll go or you'll end up with rough edges from the chatter. And ha, the side holes are a huge pain in the ass. The biggest problem is keeping the extrusion rigid while drilling, I've got some thoughts on how to do it better but it wouldn't be easy.