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The Multi Amp aka Dynalo Mk2

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It looks like this other than mine has the flatted shaft:

 

$T2eC16JHJHQE9nzEyP!zBR(ES((luQ~~60_57.J

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  • Here's an update on the mini. I've got the external regs running now.  This thing does throw off quite a bit of heat.  I've some sinks on the output transformers now, but I'd like to make them a

  • Almost there.  I've got one channel dialed in and working on the second.   

  • johnwmclean
    johnwmclean

    Kerrys awesome mini will fit a FPE profile 1 enclosure. The smallest I could get it: 133.92mm (W) x 172.72mm (D) x 42mm (H) Smaller than Cavalli’s Liquid Carbon in height and depth, and only sl

Posted Images

almost look like the amp can fit inside the pot ...

Found that there is nothing wrong with the pot. When I saw that the measurements of each section at a particular rotation weren't really far off, it didn't jive with what I was hearing.

 

I found some connection issues; 2 crushed pins on the L out from the pot, and 2 broken wires on the input cable from the L jacks (that were still making some connection). Once fixed, it sounds much better now.

 

This is the first time working with the radio shack rainbow wire (a favorite of rickcr42 from HF, RIP), and I can't say so far that I am a fan, other than it being ribbon and solid core. The insulation absolutely sucks as it melts if a soldering iron looks cross-eyed at it.

 

So, in the words of the immortal Emily Litella, "Nevermind, bitch". :)

Pics (iphone)

 

Input jacks with switch for RCA/XLR

36816086566_94dbdcb696_z.jpg

Amp boards and pot

36816080766_7ee94fc38e_z.jpg

Sigma22 psu and transformer, set for +/- 16.2Vdc (gain resistors still socketed).

36832900522_99374d2702_z.jpg

 

L channel amp board. Still have the bias resistors (R38/39) socketed, 301R in there currently, resulting in 18-19mA current in the output stage. Also using 2SJ74/2SK170 JFET input. I also didn't populate the 4.7uf Wima caps as I'm not sure there is any point to them being there.

36168636834_ff42693b4b_z.jpg

Sounds very good, still evaluating compared to my other Dynalo. Dead quiet. I have only tried SE inputs so far, and don't notice any difference between the switch up (- inputs into the amp tied to ground), or down (- inputs wired to XLR but floating). Gain seems sufficient now that I have the input wiring issues sorted. It will be awhile before I case this, so I just mounted it to some scrap veneered plywood I grabbed from home depot for a buck, stained and polyed.

EDIT: small pieces of clear tubing used as board standoffs, in case anyone was going to chastise me for mounting them directly to the wood :)

Edited by Pars

Make sure it's deadwood..................          :laugh:

You guys are clearly barking up the wrong tree. :laugh:

Oh shit, I forgot to use the C37 lacquer... I'm truly fucked now :rofl:

@pars what are those connectors you're using for PSU and input/output?   btw nice airy chassie you have there .... have one almost similar

 

y1lttwx.jpg

 

...please don't comment on my dips Par  :laugh:

I/O connectors are Molex KK 0.100" such as Mouser 538-22-10-2031. The PSU connectors are Molex SPOX 0.200" such as Mouser 538-10-32-1031.

 

And your sockets... :kitty:

Just Finished my Build  :)

 

sounds very nice,more transparent than KSA-5 Klone IMO

 

K9mz17q.jpg

 

TsCXBqv.jpg

looks like all the parts are available to build that. 2sk170GR, GR only.

 

A board to do that would be pretty trivial if we can't buy in the usa.

 

Still going to cost more than a standard linear I think.

I have the standard linear stuff, it's just a bit on the large side for the case I pictured earlier. Also more difficult to disassemble than I first thought. Oddly enough I can probably fit some 7x15 -> Jung regulator inside. 

 

I agree though, for the prices at which you can get used all-in-one linears they're almost no brainers. 

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-One-HAA15-0-8-A-Regulated-Linear-Power-Supply-HAA1508A-12-OR-15VDC-5VDC-/141677351787?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20fca0d36b

 

Careful getting these shipped though, they're as dense as they look...as are the people shipping them

A Taiwanese kit & film cap  supplier called ucc

 

http://ucccap.myweb.hinet.net/

 

mine is older version

 

 

UCC is a popular DIY supplier and has been around for some time. 

 

The dual-rail power supply is available both as a complete kit for roughly $43 US or PCB only for roughly $4 US. I was not able to find the shipping charge to US. It also appears that the store only accepts cash - the buyer is instructed to send cash to the store via registered mail. 

this power supply performs no better than the fully regulated alternate krell ksa5 power supply

so it may be easier for people to do that.

How big are these things? I only ask because I did a half sigma22 layout (only 1 pair of output FETs) and used it in a CD player to power the I/V stage.

 

Board on the right. I didn't bother heatsinking the output FETs on this because of the low current draw.

IMG_1360.jpg

this power supply performs no better than the fully regulated alternate krell ksa5 power supply

so it may be easier for people to do that.

 

That's the one I was looking at originally, maybe it's time to put in a order. Need some BHSE supplies anyway

Do they ship internationally? I can't beat that size

 

yes he can do international shipping

 

can contact him by mail

The alternate krell supply is bigger than it needs to be, because I made it the original

size, will look into shrinking it a bunch.

sounds good, I can send you any extras that bay area throws my way if you want

 

Are they worth using in the NFB preamp too?

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