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The Official Head-Case Photography Thread.


Knuckledragger

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The guys at the NH Hunt's were nice enough folks when I've been there, though admittedly, I wasn't asking them pointed questions or trying out too many things so they didn't really have a chance to be jackasses even if they wanted to. I've stopped at the Cambridge store to pick up a strap once, but that's been it. I have not been to their flagship store (Melrose) or the one in Boston. I've found that they're all just far enough it's easier for me to just order from Adorama/B&H.

Edited by Salt Peanuts
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Last month I was returning home from a particularly insane party, and as I approached the Connecticut river, I decided to park and venture across the old railroad bridge. It's now part of the Norwottuck Rail Trail. The fog was insanely dense, so I heard this boater before I saw him. I climbed up on the railing of the fence and took a few pictures of him before he disappeared underneath the bridge.

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Cleaned up slightly in Photoshop, but most unedited. 17-40 F/4L @ 29mm, F/5, 1/60th, ISO100. IIRC, color balance was set to cloudy.

EDIT: anyone know what the name of this type of boat is? It's not a kayak, AFAIK. It looks like a 1-man crew shell.

EDIT 2: It just a "racing shell" I guess.

Edited by Knuckledragger
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for some reason i cant get shots as sharp as the one jeff posted a long time ago of that tram in nyc with my nex 5. iirc he mentioned using the kit lens even. dont know if it was post processed though. at 1:1 viewing, i see a lot of grain/noise in the photos - even the ones taken during the day at 200iso with 1/4000 sec shutter speeds. i can slow down the shutter to say 1/320s and stop down the lens but even then i see that grain. given that the zeiss 35mm is one of the sharpest lenses out there, id like to know if its something that i am doing wrong or whether it is just the nex.

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given that the zeiss 35mm is one of the sharpest lenses out there, id like to know if its something that i am doing wrong or whether it is just the nex.

When I had the Zeiss 35mm f/2 ZE for Canon, I ended up with less percentage of razor-sharp photos compared to Canon lens, probably mostly due to my lack of manual-focusing skills. But I felt even well-focused Zeiss photos were not sharper or less noisy than Canon lenses. What Zeiss did have was a warmer tone, which to this day I'm not sure whether I liked or not. Anyway, manual focusing in dark places, without a tripod, without manual-focus screen, can definitely challenge the best of us.

At any rate, here is my new Chinese ("Fancier") carbon-fiber tripod, which reportedly comes from same factory as Benro, Flashpoint, etc. Not bad at all for $160 or so I paid including a decent ballhead.. Yes, I'm a cheapskate, and no, $500-600 carbon tripods are not in my future.

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IMG_4202 by drjlo2, on Flickr

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wasnt being critical for the sake of being critical. asked so i could improve if i was doing something in poor practice. if it is camera limitation then so be it. however if i can be doing anything different to get sharper images then id like to learn.

Problem #1 as Jon L noted is that you're using a manual focus lens on a camera which was never designed for it. It does not have a viewfinder, nevermind one with the old school focusing screens which had microprisms, split image rings and other focusing aids so that you can really dial in the focus. You're dependent on an LCD screen with its limited resolution & sharpness plus its view magnifier function to judge focus, it can be made to work but it's a PITA. I've tried it on a micro 4/3 camera and it's a hell of a lot slower and less consistent than my Olympus OM-1 film camera (not exactly fair since the OM series had one of the best viewfinders ever made).

With regards to noise, yeah, looks like underexposure. I loaded up the sample in Photoshop and the histogram is squashed up on the left with a sizable gap on the right. Here's what you do, pick a few typical scenes of stuff that you'd photograph and take a series of pictures of each scene, using the exposure compensation function to dial up the exposure a bit in each one until you start blowing out the highlights. Then back it off a notch. Then note how much you had to dial it up and remember that number or save it into the settings. Use the standard jpg output to get this part dialed in, open them up without any editing in Photoshop or whatever you use and confirm that the highlights and everything else is good using the histograms. Only after you've got the compensation dialed in should you start dicking around with raw. You want the images to come out of the camera as good as they can so that you don't have to dick around with them too much in raw processing & Photoshop.

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Well, shit. The battery door of my 30D, which has been failing for months, finally came off in my hand today. I spent an hour duct-taping it back together (in away that doesn't interfere with any of the controls or the memory card door) and it looks like ass, but works. This is kind of an issue as I have very big job shooting an event on Saturday. banghead.gif

Anyone got a spare D3S lying around that I could borrow?

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Some pics from a trip to San Francisco last weekend. Was yet another fantastic 5-day mini-vacation - in fact, I think I'm going to make all of my future trips 5 days. Just long enough to feel like I've taken up temporary residence in a new area and don't want to go back home at the end. :)

(Sorry if 25 pics is too many, didn't really want to pare this set down further.)

#1 - N-facing view from my hotel room

#2 - Chinatown

#3-#4 - fire jugglers at Justin Herman Plaza (Market & Embarcadero)

#5-#8 - CA Academy of Sciences (in Golden Gate Park)

#9-#10 - De Young Museum (also in Golden Gate Park) (#10 made me think of HC) ;)

#11 - NE area of the city from a boat tour

#12-#13 - Aquarium of the Bay's "underwater" tunnel exhibit

#14-#18 - Pier 39/Fisherman's Wharf area

#19 - downtown SF near the Metreon

#20-#23 - SF Museum of Modern Art (expand the towel pics to read what's on them - I got a laugh out of the embroidered text)

#24-#25 - views from the Grandviews Lounge of the Grand Hyatt SF (GG Bridge in remote background of #25)

On a photography-related subject, I incidentally discovered on this trip that the Tokina 11-16 f/2.8 produces image quality superior to the Nikon 16-85 f/3.5-5.6 when all variables are kept constant - better contrast specifically, along with slightly sharper IQ, and better starburst effects on light sources (easily noticed on night shots).

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Edited by Asr
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