does anyone here perhaps know anyone big into the computer modding scene? I'm specifically looking for a recommendation for a 120mm fan that is dead quiet.. I plan on running it as slow as possible as well. Currently, I'm looking at the Enermax Enlobal "magnetic-barometric" fans...

does anyone here perhaps know anyone big into the computer modding scene? I'm specifically looking for a recommendation for a 120mm fan that is dead quiet.. I plan on running it as slow as possible as well. Currently, I'm looking at the Enermax Enlobal "magnetic-barometric" fans...

Might want to check out the fans from Scythe (S-Flex), Noctua and Nexus. Here's a good 120mm quiet fan round-up:

SPCR's Fan Round-Up #2: 120mm Fans | silentpcreview.com

does anyone here perhaps know anyone big into the computer modding scene? I'm specifically looking for a recommendation for a 120mm fan that is dead quiet.. I plan on running it as slow as possible as well. Currently, I'm looking at the Enermax Enlobal "magnetic-barometric" fans...

Most 23 cfm (and 120 mm) fans are completely silent unless you're right next to the fan.

Don't buy 250cfm Deltas. That's what I used on my main machine for years (on a controller, of course).

If I use these in this particular application, that I cannot mention due to being ostracized from DIY all together, I'd take the Nelson Pass approach, which is run them so slow they won't even start at the running voltage. In order to start them, I'll provide a small boost at start-up time and then decrease the voltage until they are slow. In this case, deepak may be right and all fans will perform about the same..

Well you have plenty of fans on this site, but unfortunately most of us blow hot air.

I think we know where this is going next... *definitely* needs to visit the Dr. for a special treatment!

Cmoy Monoblocks?

Cmoy Monoblocks?

yes. One for case the wall warts and the other case will have an Altoids tin can strapped to the bottom with cable ties with Black Gates on the outputs.

Don't forget the lead weights for mass dampening.

with the left over metal, you can probably build small tank

Don't forget the lead weights for mass dampening.

Lead prices are skyrocketing. Have you considered old textbooks? If we're being honest with each other, we both know it's going to flame out sooner than later, and textbooks really make a grand spectacle when it does.

Shall I mortice out the sides of the back of the faceplates so that the center will fill that slight recess between the heatsinks? If so I'll need the distance between the heatsinks, and the distance of the recess in SAE measurements. To the nearest 32nd would be fine. From just looking at the pic I'd guess it to be about 3/16", is that close?

Those are seriously sweet looking cases Marc! Did you have that perforated aluminum anodized, or did you find it this way?

Shall I mortice out the sides of the back of the faceplates so that the center will fill that slight recess between the heatsinks? If so I'll need the distance between the heatsinks, and the distance of the recess in SAE measurements. To the nearest 32nd would be fine. From just looking at the pic I'd guess it to be about 3/16", is that close?

Those are seriously sweet looking cases Marc! Did you have that perforated aluminum anodized, or did you find it this way?

I bought the perforated aluminum from onlinemetals. I'm very happy with it!

yeah, about 3/16". 4mm to be exact. The recess is 12" x 4.875" wide. I dropped the wood in the mail this morning and pickup was at noon, so I'm guessing you'll see it tomorrow.

Also, remember the back of the wood will be right up against some hot heat sinks .. would it be best so space it out a tiny bit so it's not touching?

I bought the perforated aluminum from onlinemetals. I'm very happy with it!

yeah, about 3/16". 4mm to be exact. The recess is 12" x 4.875" wide. I dropped the wood in the mail this morning and pickup was at noon, so I'm guessing you'll see it tomorrow.

Also, remember the back of the wood will be right up against some hot heat sinks .. would it be best so space it out a tiny bit so it's not touching?

Probably a good idea to space it a bout 1/16" away from the heatsink.

OK WTF is 4.875" in SAE? You're making me do math...I hate math!

Shouldn't take long once the wood arrives. It'll need to sit overnight after the initial glue up though.

How deep is the threaded post of the power switch? Will I need to mortice the back of the faceplate for it, or is it deeper than 3/4"?

It's in the specs you sent, but I can't read that little print. I'm old remember?

That perfed metal might work well for some vent holes I'm planning in the tops of some cases.

Edited February 3, 200917 yr by swt61

4 7/8

Is there another Hubble type of incident looming...?

4 7/8

Now that I can understand. Thank you Sir!

Now that I can understand. Thank you Sir!

according to the docs max panel is 11mm. or 0.4331" or 7/16" or 6.83554293

according to the docs max panel is 11mm. or 0.4331" or 7/16" or 6.83554293

I need you to teach me how to dovetail right... too bad rosewood costs so much to ship... ;-)

LOL, OK thanks. I'll be sure to mill a round mortice behind the power switch to lessen the thickness. I'll leave enough room to allow you to get the retaining nut on easily.

I can't wait to see these puppies finished!

I suppose you could recess the switch in the front as well. I'll let you decide Here's hoping the wood shows up today!

I need you to teach me how to dovetail right... too bad rosewood costs so much to ship... ;-)

Ah that's easy, I cheat...

I can send the jig your way if you like. Do you have a router that accepts collars? If not I can send that too.

I suppose you could recess the switch in the front as well. I'll let you decide Here's hoping the wood shows up today!

It would need to have a chamfered edge or rounded edge to look good, and that's tough to do with a depth of 1/8" give or take.

You convinced me - I'll ship the wood.... it needs to be resawn first anyway. One clusterfuck at a time.