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The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!

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You guys got to stop posting links to new tools! When it comes to cool handy tools, I have little to no self restraint. Needless to say, I have a semi tester and screwdriver on the way...:D

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The first distributor I spoke to told me minimum purchase quantity for k216/j79 was 3000 of each.

Digikey just gave me this quote... does this mean they are free? biggrin.png (I called them curious about what it meant, and the plain simple of it is they can't buy them). Sorry guys.

The New England rep for Renesas hasn't been very helpful, so if anyone else wants to try their local rep you may have more success.

post-236-0-71865900-1315943430_thumb.jpg

How much were they at 3000 each?

But if its another fuckjob like DALBANI who refuses to stand behind

their product, probably not interested.

Speaking of which, birgir now has verfied fake K216's also from

DALBANI.

Here is how to test the fets

For the K216

Make an adapter that ties the gate pin to the source pin

which goes to the emitter pin in the socket, and the drain

goes to the collector.

Then test as a NPN. The real ones test at 230 volts, The fakes test

much less.

Edited by kevin gilmore

I'll ask, but they aren't on the official Renesas distributor list so I am weary of proceeding.

You guys got to stop posting links to new tools! When it comes to cool handy tools, I have little to no self restraint. Needless to say, I have a semi tester and screwdriver on the way...biggrin.png

Same here... but I am very happy about it smile.png

Don't forget to order this tool. Its absolutely required.

http://www.amazon.co...a/dp/B003FHXMDC

Already got it for my daughter smile.png I also go her the 10th doctors along with a TARDIS

Edited by Kerry

Just out of curiosity, has prp ever changed manufacturing methods on their PR9372 line resistors? A couple resistors I got are different from the rest in that they are just slightly shinier, is more of a bottled shape versus the pill shape of the rest of the resistors, and all of them have the ends covered with insulation, while most of the other ones have exposed ends that is not covered in insulation. These thinner ones measure just slightly less than the rest of the 100k values.

They are a small manufacturer, so it would not surprise me if they change now and then a bit. By how much lower do these measure? Within the 1% tolerance? If you are uncomfortable with them, make them replace them. Particularly if they are out of tolerance, though meter calibration would come into play there.

They are very close. Most of them measures somewhere near 99.8~99.9k, while these ones are closer to 99.5~99.6k. I do see a lot of manufacturing variations, but these ones appears consistently and distinctively different. I guess it's just a different batch?

I've got the tester and tested 2sk216 that I bought from Pacific-semi and Ebay. They both measured at 230V. I'm quite sure that the ones I got from Pacific-semi are real, but the ones from Ebay looked fake. However, they tested OK too. What's going on?

Wachara C.

How are you using the tester? The only way to know for sure is a curve tracer. This tester isn't going to be 100% reliable, it just will weed out the obvious fakes.

Edited by luvdunhill

I used it as what suggested by Kevin. I shorted gate with source and plug into the tester. Drain went into collector hole and source in emitter. I set the voltage to 1000V and pushed test button. The number stayed at around 230V.

Wachara C.

Edited by chinsettawong

That just means that V_(BR)DSX is in range. For example, I'd expect an IRF610 to have the same number for this test. Also, there are plenty of other devices as well. Unfortunately, you haven't really established much with this test. If it fails, yeah that's great. If it passes, you still have reasonable doubt.

Edited by luvdunhill

This is strictly the obvious fake test. If a k216 tests at 130 volts you know you are

going to be in trouble. When a 2sa1968ls tests at 180 volts, you know you are

in trouble.

You need a real curve tracer to do real tests.

So far all the fakes are so obvious, there is no reason to get to step 2.

It won't take long. I bet you'll find some once all of these T2 start getting built. I give you until the end of the year.

  • Author

Yeah, my fake K216's test at 0V so they aren't even mostfets...

Do you have any that I sold you? I still have a whole mess of these and they all work fine. Anyone interested in paying $10 each? :) :)

Well, I won't be using the ones I bought from Ebay. Just from the look, they are not that reliable anyway. :)

Wachara C.

Yeah, my fake K216's test at 0V so they aren't even mostfets...

any idea if this is ESD damage?

  • Author

Nope, just crap fakes. 5 real ones were in the bag and they test just fine.

Rich-Tech Parts, up in Richmond B.C., claims to have GENUINE Hitachi 2SK216's...

http://richtechparts...333-2SK216.html

These arrived from RichTech and look to be genuine- the logo looks like the Hitachi logo I've seen on other parts, and the date code looks sensible. Have to wait until my transistor characteristic checker arrives from China to see for sure if these are the real deal.

rich-k216.jpg

QUOTE: " Have to wait until my transistor characteristic checker arrives from China to see for sure if these are the real deal."

Yeah, you're gonna love the instructions supplied with this thing.angry.png

I tried using Google translate but it didnt work.....huh.png

QUOTE: " Have to wait until my transistor characteristic checker arrives from China to see for sure if these are the real deal."

Yeah, you're gonna love the instructions supplied with this thing.angry.png

I tried using Google translate but it didnt work.....huh.png

You can download an English version of the instruction from one of the sellers.

Thank you sir! I will do that.

EDIT: I looked at all the open and closed auctions for the manual download.

Could not find it on the manufacturer's website either.

Do you have a link or auction number?

Edited by livewire

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