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The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!

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It's coming together :)

 

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  • Finished...   Back plates before I mounted them...

  • Here's a new twist on my T2 build.  I've added both the HE-90 jack as well as a custom built Teflon HE-60 jack with appropriate voltages/resistances.  This one is in black chrome That's the

  • I finally got the last plate machined.  I had to replace the spindle on my CNC and also made a mistake on the CAD so had to redo this plate, but it's looking great now.  

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OMG that looks better than any comercial amp, regardless of price. You sir have a gift, also, I'm sure it sounds terrific. 

Expertly built!  Where's the volume pot?

Thanks everyone.  Just two more plates to mill and the chassis are done, then off to have them finished :)

The pot will come shortly.  I'm going to use an encoder and Kevin's digital attenuator boards.

Beautiful build, Kerry!  After building something so complex, you should relax...by building something simple.:D

Power supply top plate complete :)

 

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I don't know if it matters to you...but I think I'd want a amp top plate where I can easily access all the trim pots and test points if I were to build another one

I also just noticed now, but is there a reason you put the front end tubes in the front? does it simplify the attenuator wiring?

I may put in holes to adjust the output offset, though its not really needed given the T2's servo. The batteries, likewise do not need to be adjusted once set.

The small input tubes were moved to the front for aesthetic reasons. Since the attenuator needs to sit in the middle of the board (given the size reduction), it doesn't add any distance to the trace runs.

ah, I brought it up because when I switched output tubes the offset and balance changed pretty significantly. I ended up adjusting the batteries to 738/742 in order to fix this.

6 minutes ago, nopants said:

ah, I brought it up because when I switched output tubes the offset and balance changed pretty significantly. I ended up adjusting the batteries to 738/742 in order to fix this.

that is strange. What tubes did you use? I have swapped multiple quads of old and new EL34s with no perceptible change in balance and offset. My experience has been like Kerry's, you set it and forget it. The only time I have seen differences is with the 6dj8s if both halves of a tube were significantly out of balance.

I switched between some matched rfts and xf2s, not really sure why it happened. I can try switching the 6dj8s and see if that changes anything. I figured two volts on the batteries wasn't a huge deal in any case.

I've added an adjustment across the 510R resistor to set the output voltage.  This works off the second to last stage, so the tubes really shouldn't change things, though if things vary too much, I suppose it could.

Is there any chance someone has A) a chassis laying around for the lil knight boards (the thick blue ones) or B) designs for a chassis?  I'm coming down the home stretch with this (if everything works right the first time, a big IF) and casing/heatsinks is the only thing I still need to scrounge up.

Do not know if Georgp still has any, though recall there was a group buy some while ago. If you're running your/any Sato-Denki order I would like in! 

*remembered those were for standard amp-boardsets*

Yeah, GeorgeP had one for sale over at Head-Fi -

The one I had made was for the standard amp boardsets. To fit the shrunk amp board you would need a new toplate and brackets. The psu board is practically the same.

Well i finished my T2 build and it fired up first time and much to my delight with no smoke or flying parts.

Have yet to put music thru but there appears to be no noise thru the amp with open inputs.

With less than 100mv between + and - and 8v between outputs and ground  i think i am a happy bunny.

I am about to install V1 of Kevins Attenuator and was wondering about feeding this from a single 12v supply.

I was considering taking the spare pin on the power sockets and picking up 12v from the power supply to feed the att.

I will use the nano board to supply 5v and 3.3v. Is thisa good or bad idea?. Any other better suggestions.?

Want to get this installed asap so i can listen to it. A long build but very satisfied.

Congrats on the build!

I think you should be good using the 12v supply. Just make sure there is enough current available. I don't recall the requirements but can takes look at some point.

I feed the attenuator board off of the 3.3v out from an Uno board. Again, just double check current between the Uno and Nano.

The only other thought is whether it might generate some noise into the  amp when changing the volume.

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress :)

Thanks Kerry,

Noise was my concern to. So my back up plan was to install a small toroid transformer in the p/s and feed a separate 12v to the

Att so as to keep it completely isolated from the Amp. Only time will tell, will keep you posted.

Curious as to why the spec for the Filaments of the 6922 was specd at 1.4 a when total was about

.7a. My ones are running at 7v which i dont like and i will have to add a resistor. With this winding

loaded to 1.4a the voltage is correct.

Edited by iwik

  • 1 month later...

So here's some renders of the amp and PS.  I've got to mill out the amp plate now :)

T2_Chassis-Amp.89d4cdb7-3347-4245-8ae7-c014a0af7f27_2016-Jul-17_07-16-25PM-000_CustomizedView624792571.png

T2_Chassis-PS.89d4cdb7-3347-4245-8ae7-c014a0af7f27_2016-Jul-17_05-59-04PM-000_CustomizedView624792571.png

Edited by Kerry

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