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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/20/2022 in Posts
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Doug's idea would be the right one for your next shop or for now if you can fit the size of jointer/planer into your garage that you will want later (which I thought was unlikely). For now, you have the Dewalt planer with the helical head and can live without a jointer if you really want the CNC. 🤷🏻‍♂️ Steve and I have completed the miter saw station countertop and installed the Woodpeckers StealthStop system. It went in very easily and is well designed. It seems to work with precision and I have two stops on each side of the blade, or could move 3 or 4 of them all on one side. The countertop is still fully usable on both sides because the track is slightly recessed and surrounded by laminate. If I want to extend the track on one or both sides, i just need to remove the thin inserts that we cut separately.7 points
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Thanks all for your support, things are coming together for the walk this weekend. Coming close to reaching our goal thanks to all of you. https://givebutter.com/XXcbAZ/michaelmaddock We were able to partner with the Seattle Police and their Community Service Officers (CSO) to come out and be a part of the event, along with a local organization called Weld Seattle that is doing good work in helping people with their reentry needs. The weather is looking up for the weekend (always an issue in the PNW), and we got our T-shirts in!! We are hoping that it goes well, and we can continue to thrive and grow in the future. Cheers and thanks again... Mikey3 points
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Voja, I think you are seriously missing the point. The big problem with the transformer box is potential SAFETY issues. When spritzer talks about the construction not being up to code, what he is talking about is construction standards that are designed to protect the user from being SHOCKED, or worse, ELECTROCUTED. For example, he mentions that the XLR connectors are not spec'd for the voltages they are intended to carry, which is not aa good thing. The metal panels on the box are not all connected to ground which means that if a wire inside the box should somehow break and touch an ungrounded panel, and you then touch that panel, you would get a shock. That is why all modern appliances (including amps) with metal boxes have their outsides electrically connected to the ground wire on your three wire power cord, for your protection. You admit that you are not a technical person, so you should pay attention to someone like spritzer, who is. It doesn't matter a bit if the headphones sound absolutely perfect, if they could injure or kill you. End of discussion.3 points
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Indeed, you have no clue what you are talking about and you come to us... and expect what exactly? This isn't Head-fi where nobody has a clue what the hell they are looking at, we spot BS from miles away and shills as well. You may think this stuff is as good as it gets but for me that just points to inexperience more than anything else. Nothing wrong with that, everybody starts somewhere but barging in and claiming you have a clue what is going on... it's not a good look.2 points
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While I'm at it, here is the cable they use: Just took some quick picks with the phone, can't be arsed to spend any more time on this: So those are the cheapest XLR's money can buy and possibly the oddest cable I've ever opened. The signal is carried on those thin wires but the bias is on a massive copper mesh for some reason. Now somebody spent a lot of time making this but that doesn't mean any of it is a good idea. First off, the teflon is clearly very thin when the proper 600V stuff is not and in what world is it a good idea to have the highest current capacity for the bias wires? The bias supply is tied directly to the mains, if the bias resistors fail and all hell breaks loose... you don't want what is essentially a mains cable coming up to your head.2 points
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Some folks aren't understanding the difference between something being publicly accessible but still not "a public space." This is a MODERATED forum. Over the years it has established itself to have a certain personality, for lack of a better term; and it is moderated to fit that personality. Yes, it can be exclusionary, but only to people who argue excessively about the personality and try to change it. Otherwise, we want it to be open. When someone is banned, it's not us being cowards, it's reducing excess noise from someone who doesn't respect what this forum is about. There are a good number of very technically-inclined and experienced people here. They freely give advice to those who ask, some design their own equipment, and overall have earned the respect they get. I have seen countless cases of people posting pictures and getting some great advice about what is good and bad about a design. As a group, we DO listen to a lot of music. There are dedicated threads for this, but there are also many threads for other things as well; we're quite an eclectic bunch. When it comes to equipment, though, we're not going to ONLY judge based on sound. As I mentioned before, sound is on par with build quality in this forum, and even if something sounds good but has potential build issues, it will get called out. That is part of the personality of this forum. I will read and respect someone's thought on sound, but will also read and respect good technical input, brash or not. If something is built well and sounds good, it gets praised. Otherwise, it's open season for criticism (based on sound or build). Again....this is the personality of this forum. Accept it, join and try to have fun. Or leave. But if you keep fighting it, you will be banned - to reduce the noise.1 point
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Voja, your opening post says you’ve been reading hc threads for 2 years, then how the fuck did you miss spritzers general disposition, man up and grow some, your sensitivity is making me puke,1 point
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This ain't just any ol' audio forum. Should have done your research before cross posting from HF, etc. Enjoy the ride!1 point
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I tried to read that article... holy crap do you honestly believe those cables and idiotic footers make a difference? For fucks sake... Also first good point is build quality... sure. Thanks for the internal pics though as this thing sure is a hot mess. So you have a tube amp... and you could use that to directly drive the stators but nope, they went the worst of all worlds. They take a push pull amp, step that down to speaker level and then step it back up for the electrostatics. WHY!!!?? In what universe is that a good design choice, double up the transformers and cram it all in a small chassis... right next to the power transformer and the inductor. You would be much better off with a cheap tube amp off ebay (the China specials) and a SRD-7. That way there is at least some isolation. Same bias supply as the transformer box, despite this being a tube amp and thus safe, high voltage AC being present which is easy to step up. Hell, a dedicated tap off the transformer would suffice. I just love that one nut in the back right hand corner just not fully fixed. Shows the amount of care. All the same earthing issues as the other amps as it uses the 3D printed corner pieces which don't conduct.1 point
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Neither is the correct answer. A Hammer A3 (or similar) is the right answer - it is physically smaller than the Powermatic jointer, yet still will give you a wider jointer, and will allow you to get rid of the planer which will free up space for a bigger CNC.1 point
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No pics, but Al, Claire, Alden, Dorothy and I tried out the new West County Pub last night. It's the former Iron Springs Brewery, that was bought by Henhouse Brewery. A very limited menu, but the $20 burger was pretty yummy. Fries are extra, but also very tasty. For me though the real star was the $9 strawberry bread pudding. I'm a bread pudding conaseur for sure, and this was one of my faves so far.1 point
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