RudeWolf

Buddies of mine recently announced this. The thing is pretty much coax and phase linear without using FIR filtering, so there's no pre-ringing and stupid amounts of delay.

This is why I listen to music. https://ooochenilleooo.bandcamp.com/album/samen

Yeah, they probably are. Need to see how those pads measure against the stock ones. The fact that it's one of the rare hi end headphones without a wonky tonal response just makes the whole pad affair worse. And apparently the MG version uses a different mounting mechanism...

It's actually way easier with big power amps. There you need to use a soft-start and dinky momentary switches become viable.

Thanks! Looks pretty good. Metalworking and switch woes are the worst part of all of my builds. Even if I get luck with the looks of a switch, no datasheet will ever tell me how's the feel.

I'm kinda leery of buying Focal cans because pads are either unavailable or freakishly expensive. Which I hate, because the headphones are very good.

I'm not too big on anti-vandal switches. Always wanted to find that elusive black anodized + orange LED latching, but they're always out of stock. Recently used this switch in a build to great effect. Offset prints for the effin lose.

Greenlit by Peter Jackson!

Yggy absolutely must be used from the BAL connection, the SE is "just there" as a crutch. Supposedly the analog board upgrade made the sound less warm and more precise. My experience with a 9018 Buffalo is that it needed a ton of tweaking to sound right. The FIFO board basically was what made it listenable.

I felt the Schiit Yggdrasil A2 for the price was a better buy. For Terminator money something from Rockna or May Audio might be even better.

Now, don't tell me that I'll be able to mount them flat on a 2U sink!

I liked Denfrips Ares and Terminator. Soekris dac1541 at your price range might work as well.

Dat kick.

I get unmatched 2x(2sk389/2sj109) from the EU for that money. I guess it's matching vs thermal bonding here.

My meagre contribution,

I did my own. Pretty sure everyone else also did.

If you overdo it, you'd need a softstart circuit. Otherwise you're torturing the ON/OFF switch with inrush currents.

Looks like an Elegia rebadge.

Thirdereded. It's free and you can access your stuff from everywhere. And it's not AutoCAD which is purpose made to suck.

If you know what you're doing, then any 1:2/2:1 trafo will do the trick. Just need to keep in mind the HF and current rating.

I wanted to get the DSP equipped OKTO DAC8. Sadly, miniDSP discontinued the input board, so I was SOL.

Which Gungnir was it? The multibit one or DS? Also keep in mind that you'd need to use BAL outs to really make it sing. SE uses a summation circuit which takes away some magic.

I think that messing with vintage was worth it when DS dacs were still super nasty. Vintage multibit would get you much better timbre, but it's not the last word in a lot of technicalities. Not to mention that you'd need to dick around with USB->SPDIF converters.

I agree. Lately there have been many relatively affordable options for multibit. Denafrips or Soekris for R2R or maybe Schiit Bifrost 2. All of them are very solid.