Fing

Damn you!!!! Up to no. 15 (

Depth of Field. 'Greater' DOF means bringing more stuff into focus when a picture is taken and you can control that on cameras with an aperture setting. I also like Iron_Dreamer's pics ) Best ones I've seen so far of CanJam - well done!

Happy Birthday Purk! Here, have a delivered by

What is that ridiculous bib she's wearing....

50/50. On the one hand, the dodgy new head-fi account. On the other, tone seems to be in line with the complete lack of sympathy and care shown to the R10 owner and Jena Labs email/webpage 'story'. I'm hoping it is her.

My first headphone cable! 9ft of teflon insulated 22AWG silver-plated copper wire from John's Silver Teflon Wire shop. A significant improvement over stock I'd say.

Despite my earlier quandry about 300B's in headphone amps, The Duality by Tubesville certainly looks interesting. 10k huh? About the price of a stock SDS-XLR. I want one of these: Closeup of tube power supply:

Superb stuff! Good pics and excellent work Alex - glad you managed to fix it! It's pretty damn shocking that a company that charges so much for their work is so unwilling to stand behind it. They deserve both barrels from their disgruntled customer. I'd certainly be seeking legal advice if I were he.

I vote: for AT headphones )

Interesting thread! I do think the Denons to be a pretty good headphone for the money and even though I didn't find all the mods to be to my taste, some of them seemed to make a difference to the better to me. As for whether they are on the same level as the R10, well personally I'd put a partially modded pair a bit below the ATH-L3000. I couldn't get on with a fully modded pair at all - too much loss of impact and bass, with too much treble. They still have a way to go before they're close to an R10 in my opinion and I think you'd need to re-engineer a number of things to achieve that, if it's even possible, given the existing components.

Try heating the area to be soldered up a bit. I was having problems getting solder to flow onto the parts that needed it, so I just heated up the wire a bit before sticking the solder on.

'The Mulveling'?

Thanks for the interesting set of impressions. Sounds like you guys had a fab time trying out these amps. I assume that an HD2 is going to be cheaper than buying two Zana Deux? If you had to pick one, which would you take home? On the new balancing act amp, is this a true balanced amp? If so, wouldn't it need 4 output triodes? Also, I've never understood why running 300B tubes in a headphone amp is necessary, unless it's used to drive speakers or the K1000. Apart from being expensive tubes, wouldn't you need to reduce the output via a transformer like in the Woo Audio 5 so as not to blow up your headphones? I'm assuming there are 2 gain stages - I'm probably mistaken... The option to roll 45 tubes makes a bit more sense - but still, expensive output tube

I'd love to listen to an HP1 some day. I flirted with selling the L3000 and couldn't do it. I agree that there are flaws, but as an everyday work phone I think it's without peer. As a result, I've listened to my L3000 more than all my other headphones combined in the past year and have grown to like and appreciate it more. It's fustrating at times, especially when doing some tube rolling with it on the Extreme for that perfect balance of musical enjoyment, low fatigue and still being able to concentrate on work.

Now this is actually an awesome mod Mike <Enter The Dragon> "... unorthodox" "But effective." </Enter The Dragon>

'Doing it right'? The point I was trying to make is that if you didn't like the Markl mods, then there should be an option to remove them back to stock headphones. Doing it right or wrong has nothing to do with it. Anyway the D5000 are no longer in my hands. They've 'moved on'.

Anyone can do those mods - at least the ones he posted the instructions for. I don't get how people could be queuing up to get Mark to mod their D5000 when he went to such painstaking lengths, posting pictures and directions on exactly how to do it such that even a monkey like me could follow them. My only complaint with the mods is that the dynamat is not a(n easily) reversible mod.

Picked up a pair last week and all the stories are true. Fit is crucial, weird tonality, great detail, soundstage/imaging and good with electronica and classical. They were actually very useful as they helped me debug some issues I was having with my interconnects / output valves on the Crimson. Detail/resolution on these really are amazing. However, I just couldn't get on with them and decided to give my ears a rest until I can balance them. Back to my fav until then (HE90 )

At least it didn't go walkies but sorry to hear that such a careless attitude was shown to your equipment.

I too am quite jealous. Jealous but broke. I don't particularly care how an amp looks so long as it sounds good. Regardless, I think Andy hit the jackpot with that thing and it seems he's enjoying it a lot.

Thanks Spritzer! I don't like the peeling sound ( I soldered the resistor onto the 2nd Pro socket (chained from the 1st one) so that I can have a Stax biased socket and a Sennheiser biased socket. Still get the peeling sound from the Sennheiser socket but otherwise everything seems to be fine. Cheers!

Talking about adaptors, it seems that a 5M resistor needs to be soldered into the bias line of the HE90 for it to work properly with my Stax SRM-T1. I think a symptom of this is that when I press the sides of the earcups onto my head, I can sometimes hear a 'sticking' noise as the membrane seems to get stuck onto the stators. It slowly gets 'unstuck' in a peeling sellotape off metal surface kind of noise. I took a picture of my adaptor in the hopes that a knowledgeable member would be able to tell me which is the bias line: The alternative is soldering the resistor into the Stax amp from the inside, if that is easier and again, if someone could tell me which one that is. Please help! Cheers!

Really wish I'd got my L3000 new. I wasn't impressed with mine when they arrived with smelly leather and hairs in the driver. My experience is that good sound out of the L3000 is easy. Excellent sound out of them is quite a bit harder to get. I'd like to say possible headphone variation. Maybe it takes a while for the wool padding in the earcups to deteriorate and become infested with wool-eating mites to add that special 'je ne c'est quoi'. Who knows? But good luck and do let us know when they approach sonic superbness.

Only just The cracked TRS jack is really bad though. I'd rather get them recabled/balanced than try and sell them like that, especially at a premium price. Well, no doubt some willing mug will eventually go for them