Pars

Ah yes... good stuff.

I hope that was tongue in cheek by GPH...

Win! Really nice job Ed!

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Outlaw RR2150 Until May 31st, they are selling these for $549, $150 off the current $699 price http://www.outlawaudio.com/products/rr2150.html When I clicked on the link in the email I got, I got a server error

Happy Birthday Ari!

So what did he do, get Gary to make him the cups, etc., now he's flipping them? And yes, that's NoNoNoNoNoNo. He's also been poking around on diyhifi on modding his Assemblage 2.7 DIYHiFi.org • View topic - Question on DAC reconstruction filter

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^ this

I probably do as well.

Maybe measuring the current draw would be helpful?

RCA-805-Tool Audio Catalog only $28 (plus shipping from SE Asia)...

I just finger tighten them, or use needlenose pliers in the notches. Or put a rag around the knurl and use channel-locks. I believe they do make a wrench for them though.

Yeah, I found that out myself on a Dynahi. Avoid ST Micro regulators, particularly the negative ones. Fairchild or On Semi both worked in my application (dynahi) where the ST failed miserably.

Per other's recommendation, I usually try to find a Jameco Reliapro supply from Jameco Electronics - Electronic Components Distributor

Thanks. I assume the IEC power switch powers the whole thing down. With the IEC switch ON, it would be wired so that the small transformer for the relay is powered? I also seem to recall seeing some dual LED vandal switches? I had thought at one time that I could get a red/blue and have the red illuminated when there was power (i.e., back switch ON), and switch to blue or second color when the front panel/amp AC is ON?

Then that is fine

0.46 and 0.86 what? Volts? Millivolts? What meter did you use and is it autoranging, or did you have to select a range? If manual, what range was it on? 0.46 could be 460mV, which of course would not be too good.

For the dynahi I am building (in the builds thread), I would like to use one of the vandal switches (like a Bulgin) in blue ring. What would you recommend, and if it needs anything to run it (SS relay, E24 board or whatever) note any recommendations there also. Not sure I want to mess with another transformer/PCB, but will if it is worth it. Case is a hifi2000 Pessante Dis. I have both silver and black faceplates, but was leaning towards black for this one. I will have the faceplate done by either FPE or the other place on the east coast (if I can figure their S/W out Thanks for any thoughts.

Since you have a 1/4" to 1/8" adapter, you could just grab a cheap 1/8" mini plug from radioshack, or a 1/4". What maniac was stating about gain is perhaps true as IEMs require very little gain and having too much will appear as noise since they are so sensitive. If you use this amp with other less efficient phones, you will need to balance between the needs of those as well.

DC offset is measured at the output with the pot turned all the way down. With a DMM (digital multimeter) set to DC volts, you measure from L (tip) to ground (sleeve) and R (ring) to ground (sleeve). These should ideally be <1 millivolt (0.001 Vdc), but anything under 5-10mV should be fine. Easiest way to do it is to use a blank 1/4" phone plug and do your measurements across the contacts; avoids having to open the unit. Excessive DC offset could trash your IEMs. I'm not pointing fingers at the manufacturer or anything, but since this is a DC coupled amp, there are no coupling caps to protect you from this. One other thing you could try is unplug the amp from your source, turn the volume all the way down, and then listen. If you still hear the noise, then it is the amp. If not, blame your source.

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I would check DC offset on the amp, particularly if I was going to be plugging expensive IEMs into one of these.