luvdunhill

yes. I hope they'll work with my stands, if not we might want to rig up a scrap piece of wood to help out.

The harshness probably comes from the "last ditch effort before I sell everything" mentality. It doesn't work that way, it's not about the end it's about how you got there.

are these the limited edition JHI6 ? If not, you're missing out.

JHI6's?

cryoed JH13?

I'd vote Option 1.

It involves a Millett design, but not the soundcard interface (though I have it, and Doug is correct)

working a more sophisticated setup and will definitely run it on this amp. Also, I might bring it around and give a few others a listen, Yaniger, Millett, Jan Didden, etc. at an upcoming geek fest. Don't have any Grados to wow them with, I don't think we allow those to cross the border into Texas.... if they were say to show up in my mailbox though in clandestine packaging...

Hey Tom, do those heatsinks you included for the top come in an unanodized version? also, are there any other unpopulated PCBs out there?

I'd be surprised if even Biggy went to this extreme I agree with Steve more or less on this one. Except for the part about the Sigma being remotely good.

3.25V == 2 x 630-HLMP-6000 ==

http://www.hagtech.com/pdf/snubber.pdf

I'd probably cross that HiVi over at 1khz, just as a gut feeling. I'd have to measure it of course. I really like this driver, but it's in somewhat a different price range: https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=45_238&products_id=1353 It's a sort of psuedo-TL concept.

Is snot

No it isn't

the issue would be refraction at the midrange and tweeter edges. The flanges really have to be perfectly flush with the surface. Also, the different acoustic absorption of the material would probably effect the crossover a fair bit.

same person that called the SR-007 dark probably

yeah, I was thinking 1/64" as well, assuming exactly 1/2" bar. However, I have no idea what the tolerances on aluminum bar are.

Hey, I'm having a slot milled that will accept a piece of aluminum bar that is nominally 0.5" wide. How wide should I have the slot milled in order to ensure that the bar can be easily removed? I'm not sure what the tolerances are on aluminum bar and not really sure what extra width to account for that doesn't require a hammer to (re)move the piece.

Steve, perhaps they are these cabinets? [url=http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=302-741]Dayton MTMC-0.75BK 0.75 ft

that joker is up to it again... who keeps changing everyones screen name around here? it's hard to keep everyone straight, postjack == pussywillow, cetoole == bhjazz. Anyone else I should know about?

Nate, that's a pretty cool output, however you did that. I bet I could ride that distance around here and not change more than a few feet in elevation, and even that change would only signify that I'd hit an armadillo

cool, well perhaps you saw my version around here in a thread, but a shameless plug nonetheless here: I'm working on the PCB now. It's for much smaller currents and voltages of course. The large line cap needs MOVs to absorb large spikes and the CMC handles the smaller ones. Thermistors handle the interaction upon turn-on with the main caps. I tried the Sequerra method too. Didn't work as well as the two CMC. Anyways, congrats on the supply, looks like a winner.

strange, never had any smoke. yeah, inductors are bad. any inductive resistors are bad. In fact, carbon comp resistors seem to be best. Anyways, lots of tweaking potential here. For example, I bet Kerry could really improve his supply by adding a RC on the secondary to help with the cap recharging noise you pointed out. Haven't tried the 10uF cap on the mains side that John Curl seems to think is necessary, but soon enough.