luvdunhill

very cool. Though the next panels you'll see on a project of mine will be wood Material is headed down to Dr. Wood himself, from a purveyor of fine instrument woods in the northwest. Just have to keep him from "spilling" that pink dye all over the material....

Akido? probably "Audio" honestly...

hmmm... ends with an "O".... let's see....

I will between his bouts with his spinal cord injury and his experimental Hyperbaric Oxygen Therapy (HBOT).

getting closer. Just need to decide what type of screws to use on the rear panel.. need to figure out how to mill the buttons now, as you can see the actuators in the picture. I went with a slight countersink on the rear as discussed above, so I need some "top hat" shaped buttons.. Also, I'm looking for a "smooth" Alps rotary decoder for the volume.

Are you not worried about balanced to single-ended conversion issues, such as phase problems?

So, I have never really found a good quick connect that I like... I used to buy some insulated parts and stick them on the end of an old power inlet that uses quick connects and try and pull the plastic part away quick enough to separate the metal from the plastic, then feed the wire through and solder then reattach the plastic and heat shrink the thing... that's not working with the last few ones I've tried. So, any recommendations? I'd really prefer solder types to crimp and they must be insulated. Thanks guys!

Security research on a Mac simply sucks. Finding bugs on Macs is like a walk in the park. Believe it or not, it's harder to find reliable bugs on Windows platforms these days. Nobody cares about attacking Macs, target audience is just too small. I was controlling a 100,000 member bot net just last week.. I don't even know if that many Macs exist.

So, I'm working on a pair of monoblocks. swt61 has seen these monster heat sinks. 12.2" wide x 12" tall with 2.925" fins and 0.326" base, weight is 13 pounds... and I got four. I've done some thermal plots of 6 devices per heatsink on a small PCB. Each device is dissipating 14.8W x 6 devices x 4 channels ~ 350W. I'm wondering how much further I can push the devices. The sim data is very close to actual temperatures and since I don't want to drill holes under the devices for thermal probes, the simulator will be gospel. I don't really want to move the devices apart anymore, as I have a PCB in mind I'd like to accommodate, plus a design of my own. Datasheets for devices: http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/FQ%2FFQA12P20.pdf http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/FQ%2FFQA19N20C.pdf Attached are some plots and below is the tabular sim data: Thermal Design Details Heatsink type: Extrusion Part number: Extrusion: 9012 Weight: 5.26685 kg Heatsink dimensions: 309.96 mm wide x 304.8 mm long x 74.3 mm high Material: Aluminum Finish: B Environment Ambient Temperature: 25.0 C Altitude: 0.0 m Thermal Design Details Temperature Source Names %sc Power Tsink-avg Tsink-max Tcase Tjunction C C C C N2 0.3% 14.8 W 49.5 49.6 49.6 77.9 N1 0.3% 14.8 W 48.6 48.9 48.9 74.4 N3 0.3% 14.8 W 49.1 49.3 49.3 75.5 P2 0.3% 14.8 W 49.5 49.6 49.6 75.9 P1 0.3% 14.8 W 48.6 48.9 48.9 72.3 P3 0.3% 14.8 W 49.1 49.2 49.2 75.5

nope. I have 2 though. I also have 8 JISBOS buffers Just curious, do you know if any of the other TPA modules will be available tomorrow?

I' dunno, haven't surveyed solid state sources. Amb seems to think that "many" will not work fine. Here's amb's reply: "OK. 2.2K is quite low, users of the Joshua Tree should be mindful of source compatibility. A usual rule-of-thumb is that the input impedance of the amp (which is usually dominated by the volume pot/attenuator) should be at least 10x higher than the output impedance of the source. This means that the source should have an output Z of around 200 ohms or less. Many sources do not meet this criterion."

I'd also recommend doing a bit of math and considering if it will work given the input and output impedance requirements. amb commented about this over at HF in a thread somewhere.

I'm a bit bummed because I finally found a need for true rms measurement, and my B+K DMM doesn't do dat

justin: I've had good experiences with Turning Blanks | Pen Blanks | Available in AcryliWood and Dymondwood for stabilizing wood. Very reasonable too.

oooh nice pun

MOTMOTMOTMOTMOTMOTMOTMOTMOTMOTMOTMOTMOTMOTMOTMOT

was this a public "uninvite"?

... and? would you have been more impressed if it changed owners without an advertisement?

after you, sir...

The Texas contingent would be very interested in listening to it

problem with the Blue Hawaii is you also need a heat resistant gauntlet

I'm going to go out on a limb here, but once you get the Blue Hawaii biased correctly, it shouldn't need much change from tube to tube. I biased pabbi1's Blue Hawaii by ensuring the amp was stable with the lid on (most people probably don't do this) and all four matched pairs were right on the money when inserted into the amp. YMMV and I'm sure others have biased this amp waaay more than I have, but that's at least my experience on 2 Blue Hawaiis. Also, I'd recommend getting an insulated trim pot adjuster, don't use a screwdriver.

supposedly a good combo.. I would have gone down that route if I hadn't heard the (then) top of the line SUT (Bent Audio silver S& and was rather let down. Next I listened to the top 3 or 4 high gain solid-state phono preamps and decided that this was where it is at (for me).

I have never owned the 103R, but the if the difference is indeed the resonance control in the front of the headshell, I'd try 100-200 and see what you think. swt61 will be trying 100 and 150 here soon, maybe he can let you know what he thinks.