cetoole

Nice Nate, looks just fine as-is. For the next project, how about a Karna?

Whut, these? Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio - View Single Post - Orthodynamic Roundup

Nightingale - Nightfall Overture. Just showed up from Sweden, and of course, had to give it a spin.

I fucking LOVE internal wiring shots, post away!

Why not? Modded Yamaha HP-1, modded Yamaha HP-50A and YH-3, modded Fostex T20 (v2, x2), HD580 (HD600 grills) and MB Quart QP400, then K701, Pioneer SE-700, and stock Realistic Pro30 all together. This is purely on the basis of sound, overall including stuff like comfort would look a bit different. Hell, the dynamics might even have a fighting chance!

Exactly! That is the whole reason I have been unwilling to break ~$100 on orthos, but would have sprung for Steve's Donuts had I been fast enough. Loving the sound, but man, the ergonomics are killing me.

I have had good luck with Justsnipe, using the free service. It limits you to 5 snipes a week, but that isnt a big deal here. I just tend to forget to bid otherwise, so really prefer to just snipe everything I am going to bid on. So, unannounced network outages, I thought those were usually frowned on, even if it isnt expected that anyone will be working.

Awesome Nate, definitely your best DIY project yet!

Production of the Fostex T20v2 that you heard was stopped in 2006, though you can still get them. I bought 3 off of a studio in PA, almost got another 6 dirt cheap from another studio in Annapolis, MD. There is a current production T20, but it is much less desirable, and has a completely different driver, though still an ortho. They definitely need an amp. I have put up to 1/8w into mine at loud, but still listenable levels.

Smeggy, want the stock HP-1 cable I have kicking around here? It will work better than no cable, but that is about it. Thanks a bunch Steve. I like my YH-3 and HP-50A, though the guy I loaned the YH-3 to feels they arnt nearly bassy enough. He much prefers the Fostex T20, though he hasnt touched the damping I had in either headphone, which makes a big difference. My YH-3 and HP-50A are both extremely heavily damped, using what we have come to know as the HP-3 bass heavy scheme, with thick wool felt and cashmere. The transients are incredible.

From what I remember of my time with the PS-1, all of my orthos are more comfortable. Maybe one of the other Grados, possibly with different pads, would be a different story, but I just havnt had enough time with them to tell. Kinda doubt it though, as I have always hated the texture of the grado pads. For orthos, I have Yamaha HP-1, HP-50A, YH-3, 2x Fostex T20v2, and a Realistic Pro30

My understanding is that the main difference between DDE v1.2 and v3.0 is the output stage. The 1.2 has a pretty traditional opamp setup, while the 3.0 has a funky passive I/V, discrete buffer, passive multipole LPF, then opamp stage with discrete output buffer. 1.2 does the -6dB attenuation in analog, by changing the gain, while 3.0 does it in the PMD100. Here are schematics for the DDE v3.0, but I have never seen ones for the 1.2, so all my information on that one is hearsay.

I am with luvdunhill, if the v+ is off when testing without a normal load, I wouldn't be surprised at all. This regulator has a pretty low level of gain, so will have a non-negligible output impedance. Plus, then you have the tolerances of the feedback resistors, transistors, and especially the zener diode or 9v battery. Besides, if you are at 29.66v, instead of a "normal" 29v, that is really just over 2%, and wont make a significant difference. If you really must trim it though, R10 and R11 are the regulator feedback resistors, and adjusting either of their values' will change the output voltage. I wouldn't try doing this before the rest of the circuit is in though, and really, probably would just leave it be anyways.

Nope, not without doing some serious recalculation of most of the resistor and capacitor values. The 9v battery inputs look to me like an optional replacement of the 1n4739 zener diode, for if you have objections to these parts. This is used as a voltage reference for the regulator. That said, this is just my guess looking at the schematic, which doesnt make it clear.

Well, you dont provide all the needed information, so some assumptions must be made. I assume your rectifier is a FWB, though you did specify that you are using a 82VCT transformer. Also important, and my assumption is yes, but are you using a pure cap input filter? Finally, what is the DCR of your transformer? I would tend to guess maybe 10ohm or so, but it makes a pretty big difference. You can use PSUDII to get a pretty good picture of what is going on with your power supply. Rule of thumb though, I would stick with 2A rated diodes or higher, though I have used 1A rated diodes for extended periods of time with no ill consequences. That said, I can be a glutton for punishment.

If Nate cant sort you guys, I have a bag with three of them in it sitting here. Just email me if you need them.

Hey JBLoudG20, how did you get them open, heatgun?

Prices on those heatsinks looks good, but they are the wrong profile for efficient operation. I guess if he will cut them to around 3", they could work pretty well, though I dont know how you would go about mounting one of those. Anything that is not board mounted means more casework for me, and casework is the bane of my (DIY) existence, almost as bad as packing group buy stuff. I did look at that Fairchild part, but it doesnt have a P-Channel near equivalent. Lower transconductance maybe, giving higher output z? Are you using it as a simple source follower, open loop?

Bright guy, hah. All I was looking at was that 800VAC*1.41/2 = ~564VDC, with a whole lotta ripple. I dont really feel that the R-Core I am looking at is perfect, but it seems pretty close, and still capable of providing significantly more current than is needed by the KGSS (which would allow one to bump up the output transistors' bias. I would use a bit different values if I were to get something custom wound though, though I am also planning to use different voltage regulators for all supplies. I would probably go for something like two windings of 280-0-280 at 100mA, and 18-0-18 at 250mA. The current ratings are kinda arbitrary. I am sure you are aware of this, but the KGBH power supply has double the 2sa1968 count of the KGSS supply, seen in the CCS biasing the zener string. Would be easy enough to change though. I dont have much experience in HV regulator design, but do you feel 500v parts gives sufficient margin. I am thinking parts like FQP4N50 and FQP3P50.

For the case, the Nabu from Surplus Sales of Nebraska with a FPE panel would be a decent choice I think. MAT02 could work to replace the 2SK389, or the LSK389. 2SA1968 isnt difficult to find, just expensive. Check BDent, they have it in stock, and I have always had good luck with them before.

Grawk did point me towards this thread, and it is true, I am gathering parts for my own KGSS build. The unavailability of the 2SK389 isn't a big deal for us, as we don't need a P-Channel equivalent. Linear Systems makes a part called LSK389 that is, in their words, an improved second source replacement for the 2SK389. Seems like a good part to me (only have used them once so far though), and that is what I will be using for my build. BDent has all of the other transistors needed, though I have decided to change up the voltage regulators to something that doesn't use the 2SA1968, as they are bloody expensive. Anyone building this amp based off the schematics on headwize be aware, the power supply, as currently drawn in the article library, has some dangerous problems with it. Last I checked, an 800vct transformer with a FWCT rectifier isn't safe to use with a 450v rated capacitor input filter. Right now, I plan to use R80-46 from diyclub.biz, a 100VA R-core transformer with 300v-0-300v at 80mA,0-6.3v at 2A, 0-18v*2 at 1.2A, and 0-12.6v at 1A. It is $35, and the shipping quote I got to the USA is $30. I am gonna try and shoehorn it into a 12"x8"x2.5" Par Metals case (Nate will recognize it I suspect). Undecided at this point about doing it on protoboard or making a PCB, but I am leaning towards PCB right now. Their boards arnt the best I have seen, but I could probably get a PCB for this for $50 shipped from Advanced Circuits, on the student discount. Gonna stick with board mounted heatsinks though, probably 2" tall SK129 profile. Volume control will almost certainly be a 50k Alps RK40, using a differential shunting configuration. Only part I am not sure about really is the headphone connector (this amp is for ESP950, though I may reterminate for stax).

Now thats the correct way to look at it. Now, since we have already determined that only one rig isnt enough, you should probably get another k1000 rig.

Wow, thats sure...umm...creative layout there . Too bad it doesnt give much info about the trafo used, as problems with that seems to be one of the most common complaints people have with the melos.

Hmm, dark, probably some of the following counts, but "dark" can be subjective. Following is a list of what I love . Opeth - All but Damnation and Ghost Reveries, Meh Edge of Sanity - Only have Crimson, Crimson II, and Purgatory Afterglow, but damn, they are amazing Bloodbath - All three CDs are good, been enjoying Nightmares Made Flesh a lot more lately Dark Tranquillity - Too many CDs to list, but all pretty good I think, though different Dan Swano - Moontower: Great CD, not too dark in my mind though Shape of Dispair - Angel of Distress:, Pretty good Cd, normally would be way too slow for my tastes, but its just so gcaptivating Agalloch - Pale Folklore: Same as above, quite captivating Katatonia - Brave Murder Day: Slowish, but captivating, dont care for the newer stuff so much Death - Symbolic, The Sounds of Perseverance Plenty more, just cant think now, I need sleep.