cetoole

Lambdas

That the impedance is very nonlinear with regard to frequency. I would imagine this headphone's sound to be rather dependent on the amp, so an OTL tube would sound extremely different than high NFB SS.

Very interesting. Be curious to hear them, but no rush, and no chance of me buying them.

I think a group buy for O2 pads from Japan might not be a bad idea. Birgir recently posted a link that has them for $60ish for a pair, but then with fees and shipping.

Smeggy, I can only echo what has already been said, but that is some very nice work. I too would love to see internal pics, and how the driver is mounted.

Definitely avoid satellite if at all possible. I have it (Wildblue), and it is slow, laggy, and not very reliable. Too bad it is the best I can get here.

Wow, my Floats fit me just fine. How did you manage to wear your T50v1?

Turns out that a slight bend in the hanger on each side makes these fit me, though still at max adjustment. It allows more of the earcup hanger to be vertical, increasing the overall length just enough to work. Still havnt listened, because the boss still hasnt gone for lunch.

Got my NAD RP18 today from Fungi. Gonna have to wait for the boss to go to lunch though to give them a spin, but he is right, you basically have to be a leprechaun to wear these properly.

http://www.modu.it/CARATTERISICHE_TERMICHE_DISS.pdf

Ask. It is amazing what can be done with email on this internets thing today. Besides, Tyll and his peeps havnt bitten anyone lately (or if they did, there were no complaints).

Sweet, thanks Marc, a schematic would be perfect.

Anyone ever modify a SRM-1/mk2 for 620v bias, or even sketch out a schematic for the stock bias supply?

Looks like a pretty sweet amp, great gift. There are some things you could try to get rid of the hum, such as increasing the power supply filtering, but just casually looking at it, it would seem your friend used a reasonable amount of capacitance in the supply. No idea how many poles he has on the filter, but maybe he would be the better person to ask. Do you have any sort of schematic that this amp was built to follow? The other issue could be emi from the transformers, especially since it looks like the one toroid is pretty solidly over part of the audio circuit. Is the hum the same in both channels?

I like my QP400, great headphones for the $35 I paid. I would put them around the HD600 level generally, better for some things and worse for others. Definitely not as good as any of my 'stats though, but good enough to stick around. Sounds like they have a treble spike moderate in amplitude, but covering a relatively narrow range, which makes it rather dependent on the music I am listening to if this bothers me or not. Havnt heard any of the other Quarts though, so no idea if this is a family trait. You are right though, they are pretty damn comfy. Hard to drive for normal dynamics, but not even close to any of my orthos, and definitely not like my piezo.

I think its 8x PCM1704, but cant quite see well enough. Its a crazy amount of parts though, and whats with all the parts being through hole, or the hookup wire for the spdif inputs?

20 hours is assuming there is absolutely nothing currently in the battery, and of course, this is unrealistic. I would have to look up battery curves, but all batteries drop voltage as they discharge, and you get into distortion once this voltage gets too low. There could still be plenty of power left in the battery; it just isnt usable for us. Overnight is the general rule of thumb people go by for this amp. Glad you found some suitable wallwarts, just make sure the polarity is correct.

AMB has three suitable wallwarts posted on his website that you can order. No idea about B&M store availability. I actually had two or three suitable ones just laying around at home when I built one for my boss. As for the battery charge time, it depends on the state of discharge. The onboard charger is a constant current arrangement that charges the battery at 16mA by default. It will take quite some time to charge, potentially up to about 20 hours.

I get full volume out of the ESP/950 using either the E/90 or the SRM-1/mk2 about a second after I hit the power switch.

Just dont leave it plugged in constantly Smeggy. It is possible to overcharge the battery in this, as it is just a constant current trickle charger. By constantly, I mean days at a time, one workday isnt a problem.

What was wrong with it? Also, did you mod it in any way?

Nope, no internal digital filter. Its just a good old (sorta) R2R DAC, with some internal tricks. You can run it at 16/44.1 no problem, if thats what makes you hot. Of course, I would advocate using a good digital filter with it, like the SM5847.

In for parts am I.

Its not nearly that simple. The reason Async USB is (practially) immune to jitter is because it contains the master clock and requests more data from the computer to keep it's buffer partially full. The computer's clock is slaved to the DAC clock, and all incoming data is buffered and reclocked by the DAC clock. You can modify a SPDIF source to act like this, though it adds a second wire to the interface and is completely nonstandard, so you wont see it in commerical devices, except for Lessloss, I believe. To keep SPDIF jitter down would require a completely separate reclocking system from the USB.