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HC Bike/Cycling Thread

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  • MexicanDragon
    MexicanDragon

    What's in da baaaahhhhhxxxxx? Some parts. Darker blue than we thought. Happiest kid in the world in this moment. **BRENT**

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Well I just looked and if you were to buy a new S975 crank arm at 170mm I can do the recalibration etc. I could contact Quarq and see if they could do the switch as I am pretty sure it's a service that they offer.

Edited by Dreadhead

Thanks Chris but as much as I'd like a power meter, it'll be financially irresponsible to buy one right now. GLWS.

Fair enough. I already asked the question anyway as it could be useful with any sale

Not sure if anyone wants to see these or not. I laced the rear wheel up on Sunday and took a few pics on my iphone, since some of you seemed sorta interested in wheelbuilding. These are 36h 3x, Mavic MA2 rims and DT Competition 1.8mm (15ga) spokes.

 

Front wheel laced up, trued, done

IMG_0355_zps3b9f21c8.jpg

 

Parts for rear wheel laid out. Since I was reusing the spokes, I kept them sorted by side of wheel, and which side of the hub they went in on. This helps keep the bends oriented the same as they were.

 

IMG_0139_zpsdf7ddc96.jpg

 

Key spoke in:

IMG_0921_zpsbf2afc4b.jpg

 

Drive side trailing spokes:

 

IMG_6634_zps4e143b72.jpg

 

Trailing spokes on both sides:

 

IMG_2475_zps8c1a453b.jpg

 

1st leading spoke installed. From here on, just install the rest of the spokes, lacing each under the last crossing spoke.

 

IMG_7494_zps38d92e4d.jpg

 

Done lacing: EDIT: Oops, wrong pic. Still 9 spokes to go on non-drive side.

 

photo-1_zps850a86ee.jpg

 

From here, it is just tensioning the wheels, setting the proper dish (to center the rim), and truing, both laterally and vertically. Pretty much done now, just need to finish dishing, setting and equalizing tension, and final truing.

Edited by Pars

Really like the wheel building pics.  I want to be able to do that at some point.

^ I haven't ridden them yet. Maybe I'll be posting hospital pics next :rofl:

Edited by Pars

Dropped my trusty old Trek 1200 off to my bike shop to get a tune up and then be boxed up with some spare parts and pump and by next week it will likely be on a ship to Barbados. Riding in Barbados here I come! :)

 

Edit: Chris those wheelbuilding pics are awesome. There is a guy here that teaches a class in building that I'd love to take sometime.

Edited by Dreadhead

i tried a couple road bikes at a LBS for sizing, as so far my only experience is jeff's 56cm calfee which is too big.  i rode a 51cm scattante (which is apparently Performance Bike's house brand), a 53cm (S/M) Fuji and a 54.5cm (M) Fuji.  Of these i would likely consider either the 53cm size or the 51cm, though i felt my neck/arms would quickly be tired on the 51cm bike. unfortunately there was no 53cm Scattante to try for comparison. so if i bought one of the cheaper Calfee bikes id still have to figure out if i wanted 52 or 54cm..most size calculators are coming back with either 53 or 54

Edited by justin

i tried a couple road bikes at a LBS for sizing, as so far my only experience is jeff's 56cm calfee which is too big. i rode a 51cm scattante (which is apparently Performance Bike's house brand), a 53cm (S/M) Fuji and a 54.5cm (M) Fuji. Of these i would likely consider either the 53cm size or the 51cm, though i felt my neck/arms would quickly be tired on the 51cm bike. unfortunately there was no 53cm Scattante to try for comparison. so if i bought one of the cheaper Calfee bikes id still have to figure out if i wanted 52 or 54cm..most size calculators are coming back with either 53 or 54

Find a shop that can do a retul fit or something similar.

Justin, just head to Northern Virginia the weekend of the 16th and we can get you demos of just about any bike you want within 10 miles of my house.

How tall are you Justin? Inseam? I would think a 55 might be about right; the 51 definitely seems too small for you. Top tube length (or I guess effective length) is probably the most important measurement. What about Jeff's Calfee seemed too big for you?

 

EDIT: I always liked this post on paceline.

 

Jam a book in your crotch and measure (or have someone else measure) to the floor, barefooted. Subtract 30cm. Start there.

Edited by Pars

he's a stubby little guy. I'd think 53/54 would be the biggest

52-54 is my guess. Going to depend on bike. I was fit to a 58 on an H2 Trek, but most others are 56 or maybe even a 54 with a longer ETT.

Justin, did you talk to Chris about that Calfee?

**BRENT**

How tall are you Justin? Inseam? I would think a 55 might be about right; the 51 definitely seems too small for you. Top tube length (or I guess effective length) is probably the most important measurement. What about Jeff's Calfee seemed too big for you?

 

EDIT: I always liked this post on paceline.

 

Jam a book in your crotch and measure (or have someone else measure) to the floor, barefooted. Subtract 30cm. Start there.

 

5'8" (7 3/4 if you want to be picky) inseam 30.5".  i was told jeff's calfee was too big, the seat had to be lowered to the point that it was close to level with the handlebars.  otherwise i felt comfortable. i hadn't rode before though 

So per the crotch book jam method, Justin's bike size is a 47.47????

Not pant inseam. His measurement to the floor is probably closer to 32+, but I agree, the subtract 30cm seems to arrive at a (too) small frame.

 

I'm 5'7" and my Raleigh is a 56 C-C (TT is also 56). At least 6" of seatpost showing (29" or 73.6 cm is my saddle height from BB). I also ride a couple of 54s and in some ways they seem small to me. Of course back then what CC would call a French fit was more what was recommended, instead of the smallest frame possible with 12" of drop :laugh:

 

The Competitive Cyclist fit calculator works pretty well for me (Eddy fit), though my frame is bigger than what it recommends.

 

This is the Lemond sizing chart:

 

Lemond+sizing+chart.jpg

Edited by Pars

no i had already measured the way you said. my pant inseam is 28"

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