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The Official Head-Case Photography Thread.


Knuckledragger

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I don't pixel peep, but I've found mine to be plenty sharp wide open.  I use the lens stopped down if I can help it, though - fringing can be annoying wide open.  Also, couple of the tests/reviews online I've read show the copy of 85/1.8g they tested were sharper wide open than the tested copy of Sigma 35/1.4 wide open (and pretty much same from f/2.8 onward).

I took both to NYC a few weeks ago and the results from the 85mm were actually shitty almost universally save for a few shots where I got lucky. Given that it is a portrait lens, I couldn't get the eyes to be sharp with it no matter what I tried. The eyes were always a watery, mushy mess. Same exact situation with the sigma, I never had to worry. Even down to 1/60 sec. In fact, unless I need greater DOF, I almost always shoot the sigma wide open and unless I was moving, or the subject was, I have no trouble getting perfect focus 80% of the time. Either I got really lucky with my sigma or I got unlucky with the nikkor 85. I guess I'll give it another try. The price after the rebate is only $10 - 20 more than what they go for used, so can't hurt to give it another try. 

 

What reviews compare the two lenses? I have only ever seen the sigma 85 get compared to the nikkor 85. 

Edited by crappyjones123
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I was looking at measurement charts for the two lenses.  I'd try to find them except DXOmark site keeps either crashing my browser or slowing down my machine to a crawl for some reason.  In any case, it wouldn't hurt to try another copy and return it if you don't like it.  You'd only be out shipping cost.

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Seriously considering dumping the d800 gear and going towards A7r 

Sony sale - http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1272511

 

Fuji sale - http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1272462

 

That Adorama deal including a $600 speedlite for $99 seemed too good to be true... and it was.  After some research, that Sony HVL-F60M flash may be the turd of the decade, overheating and shutting down after only about 20 fires, not to mention Sony unwilling to officially admit to the problem, nor able to fix the issue.  Most pro's are expecting Sony will simply abandon the F60M and announce F61M or something, just like Nikon did with SB900's overheating problem, replacing with 910.  

 

The bundle deal also does not work for body+2 lenses.  Only one body and one lens, so only $200 discount max.  Still tempting.  However, off-camera wireless flash photography is extremely important to me; heck, I just did a shoot today with multiple off-camera flashes for a family, which involved pretty rapid flash firing at high power outdoors.  

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Seriously considering dumping the d800 gear and going towards A7r 

 

 

Honestly, why?  It doens't seem like it's so much smaller as to make a huge difference and since you've already invested in the 800 setup the $$ doesn't seem to make much sense to me either.  I'm also having a hard time imagining that image quality is a big problem on the 800.

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I came back to my senses, Nate. :)

I think the only reason I keep going back to nex bodies is the focus peaking with manual glass which offered the best experience (to me). Unfortunately, that won't happen on a body like the d800. The focus confirmation dot is not even close to reliable compared to focus peaking - set it to red color and the moment you see a tiny red dot in the pupil, bang. Perfect focus every time.

Ari, my quibble with the 85 (the one that I had) is not with the dof. It's that the bits that are supposedly in focus that seem very blurry. Anyways, I got another one to try from adorama today. Hopefully the one from amazon was a dud.

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I don't know about the green dot in the 610, but in the nikon bodies I have used in the past (d7000, d5200, d3100, d600, d800, d800e) the green dot was solid for far too long. With f/8 you can get away with it because you are bound to hit the focus by sheer dumb luck but get down to f/1.4 and the dot is basically pointless. HOWEVER, if you set up a little test before you start taking photos with the camera and shoot just when the arrow disappears and then the dot appears solid and gradually progress through the focus throw, you can figure out exactly when to click. Once I figured this point out on all the bodies, the number of keepers went up by a bit. At f/1.4 I think you are taking a bigger gamble with the AF. Given that I think I was doing better with the Rokinon 35/1.4 lens with the d7000 than I do at times with the sigma 35/1.4. However the last time I had the d800, I used the zeiss 35/2 and 50/1.4 with it and wide open, I was getting a fair number of keepers. I was not aware any company was doing focusing screens for the d800 as the screen size was not "normal." I emailed Katz a few times and they said that the dimensions are not standard and it required more fiddling about than they cared for. The zeiss 135/2 I had ordered a few weeks ago had a bad focus ring so it went back. While talking to Adorama regarding the 85/1.8, they offered to throw in some heliopan filters for the zeiss if I purchased both so I went for it. Will let you know how the manual focus is when I get it. The focusing screens have me intrigued though. Will look into it. 

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Doesn't the focusing screen essentially replace the green dot? If so, whether you stick the screen in the d800 or the d610 shouldn't matter. If you are getting a sigma 24-70, why bother with the focusing screen? Are you thinking of keeping your vintage nikon gear? I never did shoot film (older nikon bodies) so I don't know how good/easy the manual focusing was but I have yet to see anything come close to the sony gear with focus peaking when it comes to manual focusing. Why not try an A7 with an adapter with the glass you already have? 

Edited by crappyjones123
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Isn't the downside though that you can't focus and recompose at very wide apertures? let's say I don't want the face in a portrait to be in the center of the frame. So I focus first since the split screen is in the middle but if I am at f/1.4 or wider and move to recompose, no way can I stay in the same plane. How does one accomplish this with split screens? With focus peaking, one can just move the focus point to wherever one wants on the screen and then use magnification and peaking to dial in focus without having to recompose. 

 

I guess I gotta find me a split image screen to try out :) 

Edited by crappyjones123
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Jacob, the difference between the D700 you've been shooting and the D800 you propose is quite monumental, in terms of shot discipline and focus accuracy.  A MUCH higher degree of both is called for, particularly with focusing the narrow-DOF shots you two are discussing.  Of course, if you don't pixel peep, print huge, and/or downsize your shots for the web or 1080P, you won't notice the focus errors more with the D800, but the instant you pull up a 100% view, they will be staring you in the face.

 

The D700 is amazing forgiving of lenses and technique, and likely to be a lot more enjoyable to most.  Unless you need the DR or megapixels of the D800, the D700 is probably the better choice (it's certainly the tougher of the two bodies).

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http://www.trippingthroughthedark.com/manual-focus-on-d800e/

Not sure that company offers a solution if it makes the metering go awry.

 

Split prism screens can mess with automatic metering, regardless of whether they are made by 3rd party or original camera manufacture.

 

EDIT - And in case you didn't 'see it (since photos in the thread are not showing up for me), the top LCD on that F100 is completely useless.

Edited by Salt Peanuts
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