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morphsci

ES-1 Question

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So I was reevaluating my two-channel system and while things were moved about I decided to remove some of the accumulated dust. I was using one of those swiffers on the ES-1 and I guess it is too forceful an instrument as the green glass covering the readout from the digital volume fell into the chassis. :palm: So I am going to open it up and remove the glass and re-affix it to the chassis. I realize I need to turn it over and separate the bottom from the top. There appears to be only 4 screws (2 front and 2 back), of the approximately 1 billion screws in the chassis, that actually hold the top and bottom together. This seems way to easy, am I missing something here?

The piece I am trying to retrieve is the glass covering the readout in the image below and the two front screws I believe connect the top to the bottom are the lower screws on each side:

pic1.jpg

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Might want to re-seat that fourth HE-60 pin while you're in there.

I can't offer you any advice re: disassembly though, sorry.

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Might want to re-seat that fourth HE-60 pin while you're in there.

That is an old picture, before I actually received the amp. It does not look like that now. It also has proper caps on the tubes.

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Bah, proper caps are for pansies. Real men have high voltage exposed croc clips! :D

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Bah, proper caps are for pansies. Real men have high voltage exposed croc clips! :D

Yep, the caps are there for our 4 1/2 year old. I just take the caps off and lick the top when I need a little recharge. :eek::nate:

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I believe the chassis comes apart as you describe, just two front, two rear screws. Everything is generally mounted to the top panel.

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I believe the chassis comes apart as you describe, just two front, two rear screws. Everything is generally mounted to the top panel.

I have a little hesitation as there are quite a few screws along one side which probably means there is something attached there. I just received an email from Mikhail saying he wants to talk to me on the telephone. I gave him a time tomorrow, so we will see what transpires. I'm not in a real hurry.

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If you do manage to open up the case, please let me know.

I haven't tried opening up my unit yet, but I'm interested in doing so.

I don't understand why Mikhail would want to talk to you, unless it's to give you instructions on how to open up the case.

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If you do manage to open up the case, please let me know.

I haven't tried opening up my unit yet, but I'm interested in doing so.

I don't understand why Mikhail would want to talk to you, unless it's to give you instructions on how to open up the case.

Will do. I will report back here with the details when I get it opened.

I believe there may be some components mounted to the top of the case also and he probably wants to make sure I realize that I can't just go ripping them apart. I don't think it is anything else.

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Will do. I will report back here with the details when I get it opened.

I believe there may be some components mounted to the top of the case also and he probably wants to make sure I realize that I can't just go ripping them apart. I don't think it is anything else.

I like taking a look inside all of my amps & CD players but I could never manage to open up the ES-1 when I had it. Good luck. Would love to see pics inside of the ES-1!

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while you have it open, write down the part number on the side of the led, because

one segment is out, and you really should replace it.

mikhail just glues in the glass with superglue. superglue, glass(plexi) and aluminum don't

go together very well.

We all remember trevornetworks attempts at same...

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That's an old picture, the current one works fine, except for the glass. My plan was to use epoxy to put it back on but I will make a final determination when I get it open.

I was not able to talk to Mikhail today. Mostly on my end. Only one week left until finals so everybody is realizing all the assignments they "forgot" to do. :palm::basement:

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When?

Here are internal shots of one ES-1.

The covers were very easy to remove, once I had the right 1/16" hex wrench. There are only four screws on each cover, two on the faceplate and two on the back.

(click thumbnails to view 2560 x 1920 images)

Amp section

th_ES1internal01.jpg

Power supply

th_ES1powersupply03.jpg

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I did the schematics in an attempt to help all the people out there trying to

get their shit fixed. So yes they are public. Someone needs to help these

people, i'm doing the best i can short of actually fixing the stuff myself which

i just don't want to do.

The schematics were generated in part from the pictures above, and a bunch

of other pictures that are not public.

There is just so much fail all over the place...

Edited by kevin gilmore

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Is the schematic the same for the ES-2, mine specifically. I would really like a schematic so I can give it to a local tech when I need repairs or to just fix up the scary parts.

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ES1, ES2, ES3 .... all the same stuff. Exactly the same stuff.

At least from the pictures i have seen.

Now the voltmeter option, the fancy front panel option, the digital attenuator

option...are all additions to the same exact schematic.

Optional wallwarts both internal or external to the power supply not shown.

Don't have internal pictures yet of the Tube regulated neon glow power supply.

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Thanks Kevin. I would also like to offer up my amp as a working one so that measurements could be taken, etc. If this would help nail down the design I am willing. We just need to find someone local with the skills as I am probably not the one. However, if it is not that difficult maybe I could learn. I think I have the measuring devices here.

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Detailed pics of the amp would certainly help, especially of the front panel biasing setup, what's inside those plastic cans in the PSU and of the various components on the PCB's. For instance as you can see in Elephas's amp, the coupling caps are serial connected to get the rather odd 50nf value but I could never see what the value is from the pics of your unit. If this is different then it would be great to document it.

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Whats funny is that 2 of those vcaps are in series which is a really bad thing.

Especially when the caps are already rated for the required 600 volts.

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