Skip to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

www.Head-Case.org

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!

Featured Replies

  • Replies 5.4k
  • Views 1.4m
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Most Popular Posts

  • Finished...   Back plates before I mounted them...

  • Here's a new twist on my T2 build.  I've added both the HE-90 jack as well as a custom built Teflon HE-60 jack with appropriate voltages/resistances.  This one is in black chrome That's the

  • I finally got the last plate machined.  I had to replace the spindle on my CNC and also made a mistake on the CAD so had to redo this plate, but it's looking great now.  

Posted Images

Nice work Kerry! Is that one of KG's boards, or did you have those made?

  • Author

Woot!!! :)

Mine just needs to have the heaters hooked up plus sort the earth but I sadly have no time to spend on it...

Great work Kerry!

Spritzer, if I was that close to finishing, I think I'd just pull an all nighter if necessary. ;)

I can't wait to hear what both you guys think of the amp.

  • Author

Yup, way too many of those in the past...

birgir's unit up and running.

Evidently he has a noisy pot in one of the batteries, same

as the problem andy had.

Must be a large batch of bad trimpots.

Which pot? Is it perhaps the one that is (nearly) directly over one of the LED legs and a resistor?

I think I replaced both on one side so couldn't say. It may have been the 10k.

I'm wondering if it's related to the hissing issue that Inu found (and fixed). Seems like some extreme oscillation, that's cured once the amp gets a little more to a stable operating point. Then, once the pot is replaced, the other pot in that battery is already at a more sane location and the issue goes away. This would sorta make sense, given the fix that Inu performed (see link I posted a while back).

I've got two questions for the group:

1 - Does anyone have the part number for the coupler that goes from the Alps RK50 to the extension rod?

2 - The Neutrik connectors seem to push in a bit when you press the release tab. There is an unthreaded hole on the bottom of the neutrik connector where it mounts to the board. Has anyone tapped this and screwed it in? Is this recommended?

Thanks.

Also, I thought I would throw these pictures up...

t2002.jpg

t2001.jpg

The Alps shaft is about 8mm and the extension shaft is .25". I can look at McMaster, but wanted to see what other people did first.

  • Author

I just enlarged the hole with a 8mm drill. I'll have to redo them since I can only get 6mm shafts here and it just makes a lot more sense to use a 8mm shaft.

Speaking of my amp, I got new pots but the right channel is still fubar. Anybody whose dealt with loktal tubes knows this sound so the tube sockets are at the top of my suspect list.

Hi All

Just wanted to share my (slow!) progress:

PS

Amp

Seems i keep find small new components, i forgot to order ...

peter

Assembling the mosfets 2sk216 and 2sj79 now

is there any way to match them? (since there are a lot of parameters etc., and I dont know the operating mode/conditions).

I allready did the simple test: http://www.4qdtec.com/mostest.html

all K216 turned out fine. But got trouble with J79:

I have 5 (1 extra - but from a different production batch. The 4 reads "6 G5" and 1 "0 J15 5yx").

Now one of the 4 cant be turned permanently on by the diode-tester (or my finger). the internal diode reads about 450 when off. Which suggests "some issue" with the internal capacitance. But i have no clue wether this is relevant.

The extra from another batch works, but reads 425 when off.

Which one to discard? Or better: what other test to perform?

peter

Assembling the mosfets 2sk216 and 2sj79 now

is there any way to match them? (since there are a lot of parameters etc., and I dont know the operating mode/conditions).

I allready did the simple test: http://www.4qdtec.com/mostest.html

all K216 turned out fine. But got trouble with J79:

I have 5 (1 extra - but from a different production batch. The 4 reads "6 G5" and 1 "0 J15 5yx").

Now one of the 4 cant be turned permanently on by the diode-tester (or my finger). the internal diode reads about 450 when off. Which suggests "some issue" with the internal capacitance. But i have no clue wether this is relevant.

The extra from another batch works, but reads 425 when off.

Which one to discard? Or better: what other test to perform?

peter

Build myself a rough curvetracer, for testing/matching and the K216 seemed rather similar.

And alle the J79 was ok - but the one from the different batch was quite different. However just as i finished, i somehow burned one of the good quad :(

- and the dealer doesnt have any more from that batch :angry::angry:

So i need buy 2 new "low gain" types, to put in one of the channels :(:(

peter

Edited by pedefede

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in

Sign In Now

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.

Account

Navigation

Search

Search

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.