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The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!


spritzer

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I'm wondering if it's related to the hissing issue that Inu found (and fixed). Seems like some extreme oscillation, that's cured once the amp gets a little more to a stable operating point. Then, once the pot is replaced, the other pot in that battery is already at a more sane location and the issue goes away. This would sorta make sense, given the fix that Inu performed (see link I posted a while back).

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I've got two questions for the group:

1 - Does anyone have the part number for the coupler that goes from the Alps RK50 to the extension rod?

2 - The Neutrik connectors seem to push in a bit when you press the release tab. There is an unthreaded hole on the bottom of the neutrik connector where it mounts to the board. Has anyone tapped this and screwed it in? Is this recommended?

Thanks.

Also, I thought I would throw these pictures up...

t2002.jpg

t2001.jpg

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I just enlarged the hole with a 8mm drill. I'll have to redo them since I can only get 6mm shafts here and it just makes a lot more sense to use a 8mm shaft.

Speaking of my amp, I got new pots but the right channel is still fubar. Anybody whose dealt with loktal tubes knows this sound so the tube sockets are at the top of my suspect list.

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Assembling the mosfets 2sk216 and 2sj79 now

is there any way to match them? (since there are a lot of parameters etc., and I dont know the operating mode/conditions).

I allready did the simple test: http://www.4qdtec.com/mostest.html

all K216 turned out fine. But got trouble with J79:

I have 5 (1 extra - but from a different production batch. The 4 reads "6 G5" and 1 "0 J15 5yx").

Now one of the 4 cant be turned permanently on by the diode-tester (or my finger). the internal diode reads about 450 when off. Which suggests "some issue" with the internal capacitance. But i have no clue wether this is relevant.

The extra from another batch works, but reads 425 when off.

Which one to discard? Or better: what other test to perform?

peter

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Assembling the mosfets 2sk216 and 2sj79 now

is there any way to match them? (since there are a lot of parameters etc., and I dont know the operating mode/conditions).

I allready did the simple test: http://www.4qdtec.com/mostest.html

all K216 turned out fine. But got trouble with J79:

I have 5 (1 extra - but from a different production batch. The 4 reads "6 G5" and 1 "0 J15 5yx").

Now one of the 4 cant be turned permanently on by the diode-tester (or my finger). the internal diode reads about 450 when off. Which suggests "some issue" with the internal capacitance. But i have no clue wether this is relevant.

The extra from another batch works, but reads 425 when off.

Which one to discard? Or better: what other test to perform?

peter

Build myself a rough curvetracer, for testing/matching and the K216 seemed rather similar.

And alle the J79 was ok - but the one from the different batch was quite different. However just as i finished, i somehow burned one of the good quad :(

- and the dealer doesnt have any more from that batch :angry::angry:

So i need buy 2 new "low gain" types, to put in one of the channels :(:(

peter

Edited by pedefede
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