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Part Sourcing Assistance/Advice Thread

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Does anyone have any idea of where to find some of these, or something else that would work for the same purpose, but with threads for screwing them to a bottom plate from the bottom?

032076072612lg.jpg

Home depot has those same tie downs.

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I would have added this via edit, but not working correctly for some reason.

At home depot, these are Gardner Bender mounting bases. Come in white or black.

Here, you have a 15 minute window after post creation to make any edits.

I would have added this via edit, but not working correctly for some reason.

At home depot, these are Gardner Bender mounting bases. Come in white or black.

But do the ones at home depot have threads?

Thanks for the edit tip. I did not know that.

No, these do not have threads. I read the original post to say parts like those above or something similar but with threads. I now see it could have been read as only looking for those parts or similar but with threads.

I bought something similar a while back and I have no complaints. My Exstata uses these almost exclusively with no issues. Beats the hell out of paying 15cents for one generic resistor at the local store...

Cool, sounds good, since I guess I'm about to buy a bunch of 10pF and 100pF silver mica caps and probably some other goodies from the same seller.

Hehe crazy ideas like that means you end up with parts all over the place and you have no idea when you bought some of them.... :D

  • 1 month later...

in your opinion, what's a reasonable connector to use with DSD and other serial audio signals. cat-5? Assume that the runs will be very short, and proper precautions are taken on each end of the connector.

I can help with the dxf if you can wait a few days.

sure. seriously though, I cannot believe that dimension isn't on the PDF. how lame.

sure. seriously though, I cannot believe that dimension isn't on the PDF. how lame.

It looks like 12.5mm to me ...

It looks like 12.5mm to me ...

I'm pretty sure that dimension is just the distance from the center to the outer edge of the mounting hole. If you then look at the far left diagram, the PCB seating plane looks higher than that.

The mounting hole has depth, so unless you are cutting a gouge in the PCB to accommodate it, then the board can't be any higher. Also there are some little feet on the other side that are at the same level as the edge of the mounting hole.

post-1078-12951158646974_thumb.gif

those feet run the whole way front to back on both sides

the lower mounting hole overlaps the PCB by a bit

If you print it you could measure it, wouldnt have to be 1:1 either, plently of dimensions there

got up off my ass and did it

my guess is 8.26mm to pin 3

2.32mm from the pcb top to the lower mounting hole and 9.80 from the lower hole to the middle of the 22mm cut out

so 12.1mm from the PCB to the middle of the 22mm cutout

how precise do you need it?

  • 2 weeks later...

Canare L-4E6S/Belden 1694a/Mogami 2368 are they all about equal as far as RFI/EMI rejection goes?

Looking for a latching, pushbutton power switch akin to a Bulgin vandal resistant switch that can handle 3A at 125VAC for a gainclone.

Edited by Emooze

Looking for a latching, pushbutton power switch akin to a Bulgin vandal resistant switch that can handle 3A at 125VAC for a gainclone.

That's some gainclone. Perhaps the current on the primary in reality is a bit less?

I have no idea what the actual current is and my meter is at school. Just went off of the fuse rating.

I have no idea what the actual current is and my meter is at school. Just went off of the fuse rating.

How did you come up with the fuse rating?

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