Maybe its my monitors at work, but that doesn't look like it is that thick of a panel... maybe 3-4mm. Those switches look like they might be PCB mounted to me. But as already noted, you could have an inner panel that the switches actually mount to.

Maybe its my monitors at work, but that doesn't look like it is that thick of a panel... maybe 3-4mm. Those switches look like they might be PCB mounted to me. But as already noted, you could have an inner panel that the switches actually mount to.

That'd be another way it could be done as well.

You could still mount the switch directly to the front panel with the blind tapped holes, you wouldn't necessarily need the second plate.

This is a much more elegant solution. Stick some loctite at the joint and it'll never move again.

Most toggles I've encountered are a threaded shaft that a retaining nut holds into place. So how would you attach it to the face plate directly, from behind? You could drill and tap a large enough hole for the shaft, but lining the switch up correctly maybe tricky.

That's a thick front panel. So you blind tap a few holes at the back of that thing, and mount a second thinner plate on it. Then use the second plate to mount the switch.

This is basically what I do. I use small metal spacers between the second piece and the front plate to recess it even more.

This is the dynalo I did awhile ago, and it is done with a plexiglass panel behind the faceplate, to which the switches and pot are mounted. The LEDs are on a PCB I etched which is also mounted to the inner panel.

Edited March 6, 201214 yr by Pars

Nice problem solving and methodology, both of you.

Great ideas! now to get me a thin panel.....

Modushop drawings are a pita...

I need confirmation of a measurement for a Hi Fi 2000 3U dissipante case, top panel, see attached pdf.

The front panel measures 352mm over the bracket holes, in theory it should be the same as the top panel (which I don’t have btw).

Anyone who has a 3U case and a straight measuring pole, could you please let me know. Please measure from centre to centre over the holes on the top panel.

Would be most appreciative of your time.

MEASUREMENT NEEDED.pdf

Edited March 20, 201214 yr by johnwmclean

^ Anyone?

I'd love to help, but my measuring pole bends a little to the right.

No measuring pole, but it looks to be about 350mm.

Thanks for that Yun.

... nice one Steve, some info I didn’t need to know

Anything helpful here?

http://www.hifi2000.it/default.asp?id=0&ACT=19

Those drawings are fine for basic layout, I’ve found loads of mistakes and missing data, and not to be trusted for re-fab.

I am embarrassed to say I dont have anything in metric and using my wife's sewing tape is not cool but if interested pm me your email address so I can send you a few pics

Edited March 22, 201214 yr by eggil

Appreciate that eggil, but I got the measurement a couple of posts back. No need to raid your wife's sewing kit!

The gang at ifixit has created a new guidebook site. Could be useful for DIY stuff.

http://www.dozuki.com

and my school supports it... go poly..

Any ideas on how to couple an 8mm shaft to a 6mm shaft (no human copulation joke intended)? Can't seem to find one from any of the usual sources

I’ve used these in the past...

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6x8mm-CNC-Motor-Jaw-Shaft-Coupler-6mm-8mm-Flexible-Coupling-OD-20x26mm-/170825797929?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27c602d129#ht_2940wt_1120

Search on eBay for a CNC shaft coupler (like this one). They call them "flexible," but from experience they're not especially; I've used them before to extend the shaft of a control knob, and it's not like knob moved once it was mounted.

Edit: Looks like johnwmclean beat me to it.

Thanks fellas! Don't know why it didn't occur to me to check ebay

DRILL PRESS!!!

I need a drill press. I'd like to buy it local, not ebay or Amazon. Seems like shipping something like that would be too much. I wanted to get a Delta, but spotted a few others like Hitachi. I've heard good and bad about Craftsman, and generally good things about some at Harbor Freight. Still, I am undecided. Ideas?

I would steer clear of Harbor Freight if this is a tool you'll want years of maintenance free service from. I'm not a fan of today's Craftsman tools either. Delta and Hitachi are both pretty good tools in general. What is your budget? Do you have a Woodcraft store in your area? The staff there are very knowledgeable (not so in most home improvement stores), and can help assess your needs, and recommend the right model. They sell Rikon, Jet and Powermatic, all of which get the Dr. Wood seal of approval. Believe it or not drill presses can have many differing functions, so a knowledgeable sales person can really save you some money and get you the right tool.