Leaderboard

Got word today that ProPartsUSA has finished my double adjustable shock conversion on my front shocks. Should ship to me on Thursday or Friday. Should be fun. They sent me the shock dyno charts but I really don't know what to do with them.

So here's something that should work as a 5V supply. I've run it in LTSpice and it shows < 3uV of noise at 5A output. Reality will push that up a bit with the reference being a big culprit. You've got to have at least 2.5V above your output to regulate, but 3V is safer (like Kevin said). I had to kill the current source feeding the reference, but that was driven more by the LT1021 (higher current requirements) and higher voltages and is not really necessary. I've run my GR78xx without the current source just fine. Also, you might be able to get away with one LED (for D9/D12) depending on the OpAmp min supply voltage. Hmmm... Less parts / smaller parts... could this fit on a smaller board

Find out what shop is the most reputable chassis tuner (ie suspension shop) in your area that does not rape customers. You’re generally looking for old school. Then speak to them about your ride, tires/wheels and how you track the car. Flash the girly pic of the shocks and wait for the magic... HS

@Laowei wow someone measured a few times before putting everything into the chassis Nice Finally about to finish up a solenoid driver board to send out. Was gonna make it smaller but got too lazy

Me: Roasted barramundi with risotto and roasted red pepper For Anne: Portobello gnocchi in Marsala sauce

vinyl

Sorry... with a few T2 builds underway, I've gone numb to prices

If the term "Spritzer Signature" doesn't float their boat, how about "Gilmore Gold Grade"....? What's not to like...?

Completely forgot to take a picture of the rainbow trout entree, but here's the S'mores tart dessert. It was crazy, crazy good.

Replacing the USB is pretty straight forward. Only removing/assembling the Yggy case with its plethora of screws can take some time. Gotta send in your Yggy for the Analog 2 upgrade. It’s more than just the replacing output PCBs. They also update the DSP firmware to deglitch the original Megaburrito digital filter, and add/replace/rework parts to upgrade to the current production configuration. They have learned some things to make it sound better in the 3+ years it’s been out. Sent mine in yesterday. We’ll see how it turns out.

One to recommend to a few in the crowd: Joana Serrat - Dripping Springs. Kind of ethereal country pop, with a twist of Mazzy Star thrown in.

Happy belated birthday Grahame!

morning metal Deafheaven - New Bermuda

Installed a Nest E. I had to relocate where the wire came out of the wall, patch/clean up the drywall and paint before it could go in. That said, it was a very easy install. I definitely prefer the clean look to the original Nest... It fits in well with the white in-wall speakers and wood work and is more subtle/less techy looking.

Moved too far from downtown to not have a car, and I narrowed the list down to a Subaru or a Subaru, after realizing an AWD Wagon was what I needed. The BMW that was perfect was just too much of a risk... So I bought a turbo Vovlo. Leaves me $$$ to buy a bike [emoji4] Thanks for the find, Jeff. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

Mostly a packaging job. Had around an old Paul Hynes PR-3HD 18.5VDC voltage regulator and 2x 18VAC Rcore transformer I bought years ago to use in powering an old Mac mini. It’s capacitor input. Wanted remake as a 12VDC supply and was able to adjust it to design. Bought a bare case off eBay. Added a inductor and capacitor bank to use as choke input expecting ~35% rectified DC voltage drop. Powers up no-load OK. Need to now get some power resistors to stress test at 5A to see if drop out is exceeded and starves the regulator. Might have to go to a 2x 22VAC.

I might be interested in a case group buy. I would need 3.

So I thought I would try out reflow oven soldering with a toaster oven. The AMB regulators for the Dynalo Mini are $40 whereas the toaster oven was practically free. I figured trying to solder with the toaster would be worth a try. It would also help with all the other SMD projects I have. I don't have a controller for now so I did it manually. As a test I bought an SMT adjustable power supply kit from Nightfire electronics. I had a little too much solder for the LM317 and one resistor didn't self-center but I'm pretty satisfied with the result. I'm thinking about using this for the R2R attenuator board. Anyone know what the procedure is for doing reflow on 2 sided boards?