DigiPete can step in here, but I would think you could go longer on the boards and still retain Dynahi compatibility? As long as the output transistors are on the same footprint so you could use identical mounting brackets, it should be OK. Not sure on mounting holes on the other end; whether those would need to be in the same place?
Got one. Including home-made leads. Bridge works too. My dad doesn't have a lab (and wouldn't have a clue as to what we are talking about, but I digress).
Measured using the drop across the 2 ohm resistors? I assume this is something like Q27, Q31, Q28 and Q32 (half populated)?
Why the big discrepancy between the + and - rail gates?
Once again, why the discrepancy between + and - rails (I assume these figures are for 1.11V for R27, R28, and 1.74V for R29 and R30)?
You discerned enough of the Blowtorch from that epic thread to build one?
Yeah, I always get them as good as I can, then pop the servo in and relax. Under 1mV or +/- 1mV without the servo is plenty good, at least on I/V boards with no feedback (those are harder to get stable than the dyna---- are).
From article:
North American reach includes (may not be limited to):
Alabama, Arizona, Arkansas, California, Colorado, Connecticut, Delaware, Florida ,
I think it was an embarrassment to him when someone posted the link to the proper USB spec, instead of the Wiki spec that he (they?) had been using. I agree that if it is marketed as a USB cable, it better meet spec.
He deleted that post, then made the decision to delete the rest of them. I suppose some of this comes back to the Amphora thread responses, etc. as well.
I see all posts other than the announcement were deleted (the last one first, in which someone provided a link to the real spec... bad form!), and then the thread was locked. As mentioned by edwood, I do like the jacket... quite appropriate.
Oh boy...
Cables cannot "boost" anything... amplification or gain is required for that. Cutting (opposite of boost) would also be difficult without a little box of passive parts such as MIT uses.
I'm sure it will be spun as a plus when it is revealed that a HD or the like will not run off of this cable... the sound would be too "digital" if it did
Thanks Steve. I may try that, think my boss has a biscuit joiner I could borrow.
Here is another pic that shows the carpet detail a bit better. Looks like the outer frame is thicker than whatever is underneath it (I assumed plywood). I had considered using an "L" shaped pine molding piece to do this right on the plywood, but I am not sure how it would hold up.
I need to build a new set of steps from the attached garage to the house. I always like the ones a friend of mine has, and went out and bought the materials for them. These are what I would call box steps, but I haven't had any luck on finding plans for something like this online.
I was planning on doing these with 2x8 framing on 12" centers and 3/4" plywood. Bottom section would be 5' x 31" and top 36" x 18".I attached a pic of the ones at my friend's house. I'm not sure how the overhang is done on these. Is it just the plywood, or something else?
Any suggestions welcome.
I listened to the HF-2 last weekend at Absorbine's as well. I have not really listened to a lot of high-end Grados, but would consider myself a flats guy as well. Bowls were to be equated with drilling holes in my ears from my experience, but I figured all of you who waxed on about bowls couldn't have that bad of ears. I was pleasantly surprised that I liked the HF-2s. With bowls.