digger945

I would recommend building both, of course, and comparing the two. I've tried different tubes with both and each roll changes the sound to some degree, so right there you have an opportunity to explore. I just got some cheaper 7308s and haven't tried them out but will very soon, maybe this evening, and report back. I would like to try this amp next. Why don't you build it first and let us know how it goes. Indeed I have the 24V Aikido. http://i333.photobucket.com/albums/m362/digger945/aikido001.jpg?t=1267052465 I don't know which version of the amp you built from the link you gave. There are several. The cathode follower is not the same as the Aikido circuit. How many different sources have you tried? I'm not familiar at all with the Zhaolu in your profile. Looser101 has built a HV 6H30 Aikido and could give some comments on the sound for you. I loaned my Aikido to Nikongod not long ago for a while. Maybe he can also comment. I haven't listened to either of these amps for some time now, so I really need to do that in order to give you something that might be of use here. I have more head time with the Aikido, and if I had to sell one of the two it would probably be the EHHA. I have found that your assumption about the different topologies sounding different is a good one in my experience. Push pull does not sound the same to me as cap/transformer coupled. Gimme a day or two to do some listening and I will be better able to help you out some. I haven't listened to either of these amps since I got some new sources to try, so they will no doubt have a different sound to them.

oops, just read my pms again:palm: I'm in no hurry and wouldn't mind being dead last. What did you decide on for the finish/anodizing?

Finally got around to replacing the burned out bulbs in the instrument cluster in the car, which led to a half day long car cleaning adventure. I have no clue how I get so much stuff under the front seats.

Are the active batteries exclusive to the KG T2?

Are the opts socketed? Very cool

I first noticed the upgrade modules here. Can't remember if Danc did something like this to one of his with the upgrade module. Maybe he did a comparison with the PMD100 also.

Mee too. The pages load like lightning with Safari on the 3GS. The (Last Page) works now also. Thanks tkam.

Maybe the parts are well thought out enough to compensate a minor adjustment in rail voltage, although 5v is more than a minor adjustment I would think. Like you guys said, when one rail is altered, it is doing so for everything connected to it, not just the output devices.

Ham and beans with cornbread. mmm

Indeed. I have experienced much improvement using async usb to spdif from 16/44 to 24/96.

Don't know how much juice the Dynalo requires, but most shunt regs don't put out very much current. It might be close. The Placid bipolar shunt supply from TPA is not a tracking supply. I think there is definitely a market for a properly designed/ slightly larger tracking shunt supply. Indeed.

It does have some adjustability to it, but for 27W it doesn't put out the light that I was expecting, and my hands always seem to be in the way.

I can never seem to have enough light at my work area also. I have missed quite a few bargains on ebay for the clamp mount architect style lamps that I think would be most useful for a work table if it has an edge to clamp to. It would be adjustable and positionable so that's what I'm currently shopping for now. The one's that I bid on most often are like this. Right now I have one like this, something like $20 at walmart. EDIT: and the one that Nate linked is another option, as my eyes are not getting any better with time.

I didn't actually expect but maybe 1 out of 10 to actually comprehend the reading portion, hence the addition of ", and some pics.":p:palm:(and no, I didn't get it all either) How bout some Youtube videos?

You could print out these and maybe use them to verify the culprit. Or you may just put the suspect part in your pocket and take it down to the local hardware, where they should have one of those template-on-a-chain thingys that you screw your bolt or nut onto to verify the correct size and thread pitch. My local Ace has one of those, and lots of metric and standard stuff to play around with, on the fastener isle.

A little more info aboot the dac chip/network bridge, and some pics. 6moons audio reviews: PS Audio PerfectWave Transport & DAC I found the explanation/history of how CD works to be quite interesting.

Maybe this will help. Excuse the crude tinycad drawring. The Schaffner pdf datasheet would not allow copying so... Secondaries are obviously fixed parallel or series depending on output voltage desired. Just imagine the two transformers above being one with dual prim. and sec. If you had one of those funky transformers with the multiple tap primary for 100v/120v or something like that then you could take advantage of the other possible configurations. I don't think you need that for your particular project, as I'm guessing you just want to be able to change from US voltage to EU or something like that. The option is there if you have the right transformer though. Given the setup above, if you plugged in the 100v or 230v way(shorting "a") it wouldn't do anything as nothing is connected to "A". Anyway, hope this helps.

From the pics and diagrams in the data sheet, it would appear that you must short G and H to F, B and D with jumpers. Lets say that you short G to B and H to F via wire jumpers, and have the primaries of your trans connected to D and F for one primary, then C and E for the second, to keep them in phase. Let's say you choose the 120v position(second position in the chart to the left of the diagram), then you internally short contacts b,c, and e. Ok, then in that config you would make E connected to neutral(E and F both actually since F is always connected to neutral) and both D and C hot(by shorting b and c in the 120v/2nd position). Now you insert the voltage selector into the 240v position. Now b and d are shorted internally. That makes C hot and F neutral. F will always be neutral. In the first scenario(2nd postion in the chart for 120v) you have D and C shorted together to hot, E and F connected to neutral, making that your "parallel" connection(F will always be connected to neutral). In the second scenario(4th position for 240v) you have power out at C only(beginning of the first primary), and d would connect E to D(returning from the first prim. and into the second prim. , "in phase") which would allow the power from the first primary to then pass into the second primary then back to F(always neutral). Power would be in thru B, to C and thru the first primary to E and thru to D then thru the second primary and returning to F. I will see if I can find the online capture software from HP and do up a schematic(using the datasheet graphics) in a bit. ...if this doesn't make sense. I can be poor at explaining things sometimes.

I have no idea what all's in the bowl, but I'm pretty sure it's got some brats in there. Has a snappy bite to it.

Sounds like that should be first on the list to me

Gimme a hollar if there is anything parts/pcb-wise I can help out with Chris.

Pretty good cans if you can get them adjusted to your noggin just right. I'm gonna see if Smeggy will fix mine so the cups will pivot up and down.

Padam and Birgir, I am having trouble forwarding Pms atm(doesn't recognise the user names when forwarding to multiple users) We'll get something worked out soon I'm sure:)

I'm happy to do some trading also.