digger945

I like the HD-414 yellow foam pads on my 225s way better than the stock ones. Overall they sound and fit my noggin bettar. Never tried the salad bowls for they would no doubt give me the same impression as the stock bowls, in that I want the driver closer to my ear, if that makes sense.

Don't know if you have read it or not. http://www.passlabs.com/pdfs/articles/susy.pdf

I don't think that the loaners I have now are the production version, just the prototype ones, but yea, I would say that they are definitely something that one would consider in their headphone rotation... eventually. I like. I got a pm from Fang or whoever and he said that the production version wouldn't need an amp like the proto loaner does. I'm guessing that means speaker amp or whatever. I don't think they need any power much, just voltage swing. Edit: The thing for me that's really tough to deny about the LCD is being in the room with Tyle while he was testing them and seeing his reaction to the graphs and then listening. I didn't care all that much for them at CJ.

I think the picture looks great Shelly. I hate my camera, a Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ8. I can never get a good picture unless it's mounted on a tripod or sitting on the table next to something, even in simple mode. Something with a minimal amount of fuss would be so great to have.

I have some medications left over from last month. First come first serve.

Some power strips have one plug that is transformer isolated.

Beautiful stuff there. Their prices seem to be very close on the Lignum Vitea I priced on ebay. Found out while searching that LV was once used for bowling balls.

or some folks already own an async usb/spdif transport.

Glad to hear that you got everything sorted out. Have you tried any older tubes that you may have aquired recently?

Rooster placemats are boss.

wrt the cathode? have you(or anyone) tried the series parallel led bias?

I have the Kester felt tip pen flux and the kind that comes with a Chipquik kit(syringe), but only use if doing smd or sometimes reflowing a bad joint. Using Rad Shack .022 solder there's always plenty enough there for whatever I'm doing. I've never tried the Rad Shack paste flux, but I do use thier tip tinner and cleaner, and it works very nicely but most definitely does not smell good. Lemme know if you wanna try the Kester pen and I'll send it to ya to try. sposored by the makers of Brylcreem.

I really got into KG's Lamda Nova BASIC at Canjam. Course we weren't exactly listening to an average amp, but still it seemed to sound quite a bit nicer(to me) than my 404LE using same said amp. I've seen lots of earspeaker/SRD combos for $250 to $350 in many places. Patience is the word of the day. Like to give the 340 a spin one day.

Pretty sure I saw pussyjack the other day. Made me think pussydigger. diggerpuss. pentapuss(although only 4 limbs could be used for gainful propulsion, the fifth being a drag)

you mean like this... ...and then like this... ? Not fragile, so long as you don't drop it off the top of a building or something. Have you already soldered the wires to the board? Me, I would mount the 220's to the heatsink first, then solder the wires to them after tinning the pins and wares(the heatsink will hold them still), then solder them to the board starting in the middle of the line, or from one end to the other. Whichever is more comfortable for you. It prolly wouldn't make any difference much if you did all the soldering first, and then bolt them to the heatsink.

I can only imagine what Zachary and Kristopher will feel. "Greater love has no one than this, that he lay down his life for his friends." I have always taken this to mean "giving up" or "giving away" a part of self. I can't wait to hear how the "take him out for a beer" part goes.

I thought of Ti. Sigma22. A little bit different arrangement for ~12uV unloaded.

I was gonna suggest the same. Once "doing it" a couple of times you will lose the reterm anxiety syndrome. Isn't the 800 supposed to have a pretty jam up cable on it anyway? this. I've done it twice using the old trs to make an adapter. I won't lie you and say it's a piece of cake the first time, but since you're mulling over the idea of butchering modding a cheapo pair then there's plenty of opportunity to ask questions and get some good pointers before the real deal. If the GS was active ground capable you could hear benefits even when using an unbalanced source. Maybe that will be available in that new amp Justin is working on. edit: maybe the GS-x is active ground, as it has an RCA / XLR switch on the faceplate.

have you found any particular advantages, or circumstances/applications perhaps, where one might choose center tapped ground over post rectifier ground, or the other way around? Interesting that you have allowed for both. You prefer the MOV to a TVS(which come in smd i noticed). Would there be any advantage to paralleling the two, or using one over the other?

Are the two halves of the inductor for one supply line wound on the same core? Manuel, it helps to resist changes in the supply line by storing energy in the form of a magnetic field. As the current or voltage change the field changes, and will help to absorb or release energy as needed. This, provided the right inductor and core. Frequency is another factor.

Nope. Just saying that the way your schematic is drawn you could possibly use it either way(which I think is handy because some older stuff requires a negative supply). I'm guessing you will go "fail safe" and use diodes so it could be configured either way, and allow the diode of your choice. Right. btw, what you have from the wall to the tranny is almost identical to what I'm working on for an unregulated HV supply. Actually the whole thing is pretty close, except for the inductors after the rectifier. Never seen that before. Would you care to give some hints as to what's going on there? EDIT: Aha. nvm I see now. Very clever.

I like it. You thinking about making it so you can use 2 regular supplies or bi?(user configurable)(maybe a prefab bridge, and flip 180 for desired polarity)