Marc, if you ever come up with an economic solution, I'd love to read about it. I have been wanting to add a sub to my frugal horns but haven't been able to come up with a way to do it with the amp I have - eastern electric m520. 

The easiest way to do it is using the analogue inputs. Buy something like a Behringer CX2310. I did this before and it worked great.

I love my SVS PC-Ultra. It's huge though.

i kind of want to get the atc sub. the big one. just because it would be ridiculous.

but that would be 2 xlr splitters as well as the optical splitter i have right now, and that is a lot of crap to put on the floor.

maybe some day.

also those crates are a fucking bitch to move.

http://vintageking.com/atc-loudspeakers-scm-1-15-subwoofer-single-380-used

Must do this

 

There's also JL Audio and PMC.

Stick with me now...So, if you built your own isobaric subwoofer, couldn't you power it with a simple 2 channel stereo amp? R for one driver and L for the second driver? Since low bass is mono, wouldn't you still get the same signals to both drivers? Or is it not that simple?

 

Of coarse you'd need a crossover, probably active.

Edited June 14, 201511 yr by swt61

I think you would have lower distortion to sum the two channels and send the sum to each sub.

Low bass isn't mono, we just can localize the sound due to the long wavelength and our little heads.

I think experimentally I have found the more subs the better. I have tried four subs placed around the room and felt that to be the most convincing setup. I am not sure this matches the theory or not

Well all rooms have interference patterns, multiple subwoofers have their own interference patterns which can either counter or exacerbate the room's...

Tl;dr: infinity subwoofers ftw!

Moar = better, so what else is new on Head Case?

Well, moar is better if it's the betterness that's really moar.

 

For a single sweetspot system one sub should be enough, because there's only one small area for which to optimize the response. Besides SPL more subs give you more control over room modes - useful for optimizing the bass response for a larger listening area. At the same time more subs will leave you with more chances to screw up. Without a measuring mic, I wouldn't try to setup a multi-sub affair.

No, that was exactly my point -- it's not always more trouble, sometimes it helps solve the problem.

I have a mate with very deep pockets who has a Wilson Watchdog sub http://www.wilsonaudio.com/product_watch_dog.shtml. It is a bit of a beast.

I have a mate with very deep pockets who has a Wilson Watchdog sub http://www.wilsonaudio.com/product_watch_dog.shtml. It is a bit of a beast.

Wilson gets a meh from me. The only "wow" factor they provide is the price. 

 

http://www.data-bass.com/systemsMeasurements of different systems for comparison.  

That is an interesting page.  I really really like the idea of the Stereo Integrity 24" driver, weighing 115lbs  http://stereointegrity.com/product/hs24-24-subwoofer/

My favourite over-the-top subwoofer is still the Krell Master Reference -- the literature says something to the effect of "...Representing the ultimate triumph of force over area, the massive yet compact Master Reference Subwoofer houses a Krell Class A amplifier...", but I would say "the massive yet massive...".

I'd take four 12 inchers over a 24 incher. Quicker bass that way due to less moving mass vs force.

Don't agree with that.  The only thing that determines the fundamental response of a bass driver is the resonant frequency and Qts. Shove it into a box of the right size to push Qts up to 0.7 or so for a Butterworth alignment and off you go. Sure there are various opinions about one large driver, or multiple small ones, but the "speed" is always about the cabinet.  Ported has to be done right to prevent a perception of slowness, likewise transmission lines.

 

I prefer to keep things simple and fundamental. Either H frame dipole with EQ and no box at all, or closed box either of the correct size or with EQ to extend bass further.  Suspect that my sub project is two of the late great Shiva X2 12" drivers in a push push arrangement to prevent cabinet rock.

No, sorry, it's pure physics.  Mass requires force to move.  Sure, if you have umpty times as much force as some weakling amp driving 4x12 you'll get faster, but ... there'll still be a lag, won't there?

 

When I said "favourite" about the Krell, I meant to talk about, not to actually own or hear -- I've never heard it, and have no interest.

Suspect that my sub project is two of the late great Shiva X2 12" drivers in a push push arrangement to prevent cabinet rock.

 

With my SVS I'm starting to see the rationale behind opposite push-push driver arrangement. The thing sure likes to dance around on higher SPL's.