naamanf Posted January 4, 2009 Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 (edited) I am not sure if these will live up to the title but it's the name of the speakers so I figured I would go with it. This will just be a down and dirty diary of the cabinet build for my soon to arrive Audio Nirvana Super 10 cast basket drivers. The box is about as simple as it gets. Rectangle with a couple holes cut in it for ports and mounting the drivers. I will be using primarily 3/4" (actually 11/16") Baltic birch and a bit of MDF. Here is all the wood cut up and ready for glue. All clamped up. As you can see I have some cheap ass Harbor Freight clamps that bow under the pressure. But they cost $1.50 so I can't complain. Edited January 4, 2009 by naamanf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Augsburger Posted January 4, 2009 Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 Nice Naaman. I guess the devil will be in the details such as finish for the speakers and crossover. I will be very interested to hear your impressions especially how these non ported cabinets handle the bass. What internal wiring are you planning on using? Any internal dampening? I hope you have a much better journey than I had when it comes to the finish. Veneer or black piano gloss? I saw a really nice Dean Guitar today dressed up with ebony veneer and a copper mother of pearl trim. Started to get me thinking about a new speaker project. (ahhh, must resist ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naamanf Posted January 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 There will actually be two 3" ports on the front of the cabinet. They will be nothing more than just cut outs. Since it will be a true single driver speaker no crossover is required which makes the build that much easier. As for speaker wire I have a bunch of 12ga laying around that I plan to use. The finish is undecided, but will probably a veneer. It all depends on how much I like them. I have some Raamat left over from my car that I will probably use then staple R13 insulation on the back and sides. Maybe some Deflex panels if I can find them locally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Augsburger Posted January 4, 2009 Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 Ahhh, single driver full rangers huh? I saw those two hole on what I thought were the front mdf baffles and guessed otherwise. I would have helped if I read your post a little more carefully too. Now I am really interested in the final outcome. As you know my experience with the Fostex 166 BLH was less than satisfactory until I added the supertweeter and a sub woofer. I have never heard the Nirvanas but they seem interesting. The speakers I guess will go in your listening room then and not your office? They look kind of big for an office, they seem to be 36"X 8". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pabbi1 Posted January 4, 2009 Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 Very nice table saw and work surface, not to mention the collection of clamps - color me jealous, as I can only spare room for a portable table saw. Inspired by Pete's build? JX92S MLTQWP speaker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvdunhill Posted January 4, 2009 Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 there are a million different theories on stuffing and lining enclosures, so I won't go there, since it looks like you're trying to go the budget route there (for now). One recommendation I'd have for the next build if there is one is to try remove, and ultimately damp via felt, the rear of where the driver is mounted. You may have to cut out small islands to ensure that the mounting hardware has enough material to be effective. Here's an example: If you want to go crazy, you can damp the basket itself, but I've found that removing material here and damping this location to be very important, especially on midrange and full range drivers. Have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naamanf Posted January 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 One recommendation I'd have for the next build if there is one is to try remove, and ultimately damp via felt, the rear of where the driver is mounted. You may have to cut out small islands to ensure that the mounting hardware has enough material to be effective. I already have a round over bit just for that purpose I am still on the fence with dampener. I was thinking about layering sound deadoner with some sonex panels I have left over on the top/bottom/back and the R13 on the sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvdunhill Posted January 4, 2009 Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 well, I can tell you what I'm planning on using next... First, I'm using double weight mass-loaded vinyl as a first layer after doubled birch ply. Then using 1" thick graded wool felt. Ive tried most of the stuff that is marketed for this application, so I figured it's time to try something else, and see what's out there for use in industrial applications, and this is what I decided to try out. Unless you're willing to build the same design over and over, it's very hard to compare building techniques. I have a acquatance who is doing this with the above technique and should have some accelerometer data in a month or so to compare. Another idea is to look at the E.A.R. products and put them between the layers of birch ply in a constrained damping type configuration. In general, I'd say the North Creek building guides have some very unique and effective techniques that you could look at. Also, I think there's a book by Bollock (sp?) on the subject as well, but I've never bothered to track it down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swt61 Posted January 4, 2009 Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 (edited) Wow! You didn't waste any time getting started Naaman. A few things I noticed... 1) I see that you've cut braces along with the tops and bottoms. Most people don't bother, and that's a mistake. Not only did you cut out braces, but you took the time to round the interior edges with 1/4" round over bit. I'm not surprised knowing of your attention to detail, but it's great to see. 2) Another thing I noticed is the glue. You're using my favorite glue. It's Titebond's best, and it makes a difference. 3) Nice table saw! 4) This is more of an idea rather than an observation... Another finish choice should you decide veneering is a pain, is to use either leather or Ultra Leather to wrap all the way around the baffle, top, back and bottom. Then make side panels from solid wood with a nice round over on the edges. Kind of a Sonus Faber look. Nice work, I'll stay tuned! Edited January 4, 2009 by swt61 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naamanf Posted January 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 4) This is more of an idea rather than an observation... Another finish choice should you decide veneering is a pain, is to use either leather or Ultra Leather to wrap all the way around the baffle, top, back and bottom. Then make side panels from solid wood with a nice round over on the edges. Kind of a Sonus Faber look. Yeah I thought of something like that. I guess it really depends how much I end up liking them. Here they are all dry and ready for some caulk. Time to run to Lowes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cetoole Posted January 4, 2009 Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 Looking real good there. I dont think I have ever seen a 10" full range driver before, though of course, I havnt looked too heavily into speaker DIY, as I dont have the workshop or skills to pull it off. What is the expected FR of these when in your cabinets? I guess the bass should be nicer than the little FE127e I am considering doing something with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naamanf Posted January 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 The freq response is listed as 31-20k with the Fs at 31.9. So it should play sufficiently low enough. If I find it lacking on the lower end it can always be supplemented with a sub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n_maher Posted January 4, 2009 Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 Looking forward to watching this progress, nice work so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naamanf Posted January 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2009 Did a bit more work on them Layer 1 Layer 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordgtlover Posted January 5, 2009 Report Share Posted January 5, 2009 Nice work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swt61 Posted January 5, 2009 Report Share Posted January 5, 2009 What are the two layers Naaman? The one looks like a Dynamat type product, or a roofing membrane, but the foil is to thick for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naamanf Posted January 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2009 The first layer is RAAMmat BXT and the second is Ensolite, both of which I had laying around from my car audio install. Since I had them I figured I would give them a try. I still have some Auralex panels to install and fiberglass. Need to make a run up to Guitar center when it opens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salt Peanuts Posted January 5, 2009 Report Share Posted January 5, 2009 Makes me wish I had better woodworking skills (along with other knowledge required to build speakers). What are you planning on using to drive these? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naamanf Posted January 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2009 Makes me wish I had better woodworking skills (along with other knowledge required to build speakers). What are you planning on using to drive these? My HT amp (Yamaha DSP-A1) for now. Down the line a Pass F1 clone. And maybe a three channel B22. Dampening installed. Time to break out the router. By the looks of the picture I think I need a V8:D Edit: And yes that is the best "Time Correct" Monster Cable I had laying around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pars Posted January 5, 2009 Report Share Posted January 5, 2009 Damn... when you say you're going to build something, you don't fuck around, do you? Looks good. And nice table saw (as if I know much about them, but it looks good). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naamanf Posted January 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2009 Damn... when you say you're going to build something, you don't fuck around, do you? Looks good. And nice table saw (as if I know much about them, but it looks good). I just to stay busy;) Holes are cut. Now these almost look like speakers. Just need Mr. Fedex to show up tomorrow with the drivers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swt61 Posted January 6, 2009 Report Share Posted January 6, 2009 Lookin' really good Naaman! I'll be very interested to see how they'll sound. It's hard to picture how such a large driver will reproduce the highs, but I know that many of the larger single drivers do very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naamanf Posted January 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2009 Lookin' really good Naaman! I'll be very interested to see how they'll sound. It's hard to picture how such a large driver will reproduce the highs, but I know that many of the larger single drivers do very well. Yeah I am a little dubious myself, kind of why I wanted to give them a try. From the reviews I read they seem to do a good job but I guess I won't know till I hear them myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pabbi1 Posted January 6, 2009 Report Share Posted January 6, 2009 Must.resist.buying.plywood.to.break.in.new.tablesaw. You are making me wish I'd gotten the Powermatic instead of the portable Ryobi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naamanf Posted January 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2009 Must.resist.buying.plywood.to.break.in.new.tablesaw. You are making me wish I'd gotten the Powermatic instead of the portable Ryobi. Powermatic and Jet are the same company. The Powermatics are nice but just a lot more $$ because they are yellow. If I was going to blow some serious cash on a saw it would be a Sawstop or Laguna. Just get some cheap wood and cut away. Setting up the table is half the fun. Well not really. But it at least it ensures you get a good cut every time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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