I don't think so, Marc. In the table, position 1 is 100V and a, c, and e are closed, etc. etc.

Nate: how many connectors are there? I would think that there are 6?

Yes, there are 6 connectors (A-F) as seen on the 1st page of the data sheet in the Voltage Selector portion of the diagram. Two of those have to be used to make the connection to the line voltage and the way I see it that would be B and F. Confusingly they label the internal switched positions a-e as well but Beefy is correctly understanding how those are working, I verified that with my DMM the other night.

...... or are there 8 connections? Would it make more sense if you could connect to H and G as well?

H might be the place to connect the start of the first winding, and G the end of the second winding.

I agree with Beefy... don't assume H to F is jumpered and G to B is jumpered. Use these as additional connections. Seems possible to me, but don't have time to verify...

embarrassed to be posting here in DIY, but here goes:

Recently re-acquired a K1000 but this one did not come with speaker cable adapter. I have some neutrik XLR plugs and using some cheap-ass speaker cable lying around (and following the pin-out guide in the manual), I soldered and built a working K1000 speaker cable adapter (for me, that's quite an accomplishment). Now I want to build a better one, using Vampire CCC wire. I've searched the web (including Vampire's site), but can't figure out where to purchase. Could someone point me in the right direction? also what gauge would be appropriate? thanks

^ Michael Percy Audio? They are the only ones who have the original stuff AFAIK. Vampire discontinued it because their supplier wanted huge orders (or something like that). I have no idea what guage would be appropriate? Percy has 20ga listed (in clear or red) at $2/ft. They also list 18ga in black or red. Would Neotech UPOCC be too stiff (solid core)? That might be a better choice if you are limiting this to "wonder wire"

No, not really obsessed with wires/cables. Just that when I search for 'upgrade K1000 speaker cable adapter', Vampire CCC keeps coming up, so I figure why not (it's like 4 out 5 dentists recommended...). Just want something better than the crap random wire I used in the first build. will check out the neotech, thnx

I think Take 5 Audio in Canada has the Vampire stuff, at least last time I looked. Otherwise I'd go with Neotech too, no need ot go any bigger than 20ha in my world. I swear I've sent something like this to Hong Kong before...

Back to the IEC - Marc, I'm not assuming anything, you have to use external jumpers to connect G and H to something and logically it looks like B and F are how they intended it to be (from the schematic). But perhaps that's where my fail starts regarding this? One more thing, if you look at the third page of the data sheet you get a back panel view of where all the connections are and how they layout.

I swear I've sent something like this to Hong Kong before...

yes, hence embarrassed to post here! sold it off with my first pair of K1000s... will check out Take 5

Amateurs use Fastener Express or Bolt Depot. Pros use McMaster-Carr. All three get the job done.

I've never even heard of those first two... always used McMaster since they have a warehouse in Atlanta and I can get stuff shipped same/next day for $4 and some change.

gah, have to run. What I'm meaning to say is, don't assume that H -> F and G -> B. G and H could be connected to the trafo. Obviously they have to be connected I'll look at it tonite, but I have a feeling Beefy is onto something similar So, can you confirm when you toggle the switch, that all of the switches shown in the diagram move together? It might be helpful if we know that when the switch is in the 110V position all are open and when it's in the the 220V position, all are closed for example.

I've never even heard of those first two...

amateur

Since you are in Hong Kong, you could also check thlaudio and vt4c as well.

Nate: wiring. I guess I've never understood what is different between 100V and 120V, and between 220V and 240V in terms of the primaries? Nothing from what I can see? Its either parallel or series?

Also, the datasheet tells you what switch contacts go with which position to the left of the diagrams.

Edited February 6, 201016 yr by Pars

amateur

Back to the IEC - Marc, I'm not assuming anything, you have to use external jumpers to connect G and H to something and logically it looks like B and F are how they intended it to be (from the schematic). But perhaps that's where my fail starts regarding this? One more thing, if you look at the third page of the data sheet you get a back panel view of where all the connections are and how they layout.

So can you confirm that H and G aren't connected to anything else internally?

I guess I've never understood what is different between 100V and 120V, and between 220V and 240V in terms of the primaries? Nothing from what I can see? Its either parallel or series?

The 100V tap is 'shorter' than the 120V tap. It maintains the correct turn ratio to keep the correct secondary voltage.

I'm using this diagram of the Hammond transformers to get my head around it...... Hammond Mfg. - Universal Primary - "Classic" Power Transformers

Yes I can confirm that H and G are as shown on the data sheet.

So can you confirm that H and G aren't connected to anything else internally?

The 100V tap is 'shorter' than the 120V tap. It maintains the correct turn ratio to keep the correct secondary voltage.

I'm using this diagram of the Hammond transformers to get my head around it...... Hammond Mfg. - Universal Primary - "Classic" Power Transformers

OK, those look familiar. When you have a voltage selector such as Nate does, but a common dual primary trafo where your only choices are parallel or series connection, what do you do? 100V and 120V are really the same for this type of trafo (I think?). Or this trafo only supports 120V? Same for 220-230-240V?

From the pics and diagrams in the data sheet, it would appear that you must short G and H to F, B and D with jumpers.

Lets say that you short G to B and H to F via wire jumpers, and have the primaries of your trans connected to D and F for one primary, then C and E for the second, to keep them in phase.

Let's say you choose the 120v position(second position in the chart to the left of the diagram), then you internally short contacts b,c, and e. Ok, then in that config you would make E connected to neutral(E and F both actually since F is always connected to neutral) and both D and C hot(by shorting b and c in the 120v/2nd position).

Now you insert the voltage selector into the 240v position. Now b and d are shorted internally. That makes C hot and F neutral. F will always be neutral.

In the first scenario(2nd postion in the chart for 120v) you have D and C shorted together to hot, E and F connected to neutral, making that your "parallel" connection(F will always be connected to neutral).

In the second scenario(4th position for 240v) you have power out at C only(beginning of the first primary), and d would connect E to D(returning from the first prim. and into the second prim. , "in phase") which would allow the power from the first primary to then pass into the second primary then back to F(always neutral). Power would be in thru B, to C and thru the first primary to E and thru to D then thru the second primary and returning to F.

I will see if I can find the online capture software from HP and do up a schematic(using the datasheet graphics) in a bit.

...if this doesn't make sense. I can be poor at explaining things sometimes.

Maybe this will help. Excuse the crude tinycad drawring. The Schaffner pdf datasheet would not allow copying so...

Secondaries are obviously fixed parallel or series depending on output voltage desired. Just imagine the two transformers above being one with dual prim. and sec.

If you had one of those funky transformers with the multiple tap primary for 100v/120v or something like that then you could take advantage of the other possible configurations. I don't think you need that for your particular project, as I'm guessing you just want to be able to change from US voltage to EU or something like that. The option is there if you have the right transformer though.

Given the setup above, if you plugged in the 100v or 230v way(shorting "a") it wouldn't do anything as nothing is connected to "A".

Anyway, hope this helps.

I think Take 5 Audio in Canada has the Vampire stuff, at least last time I looked. Otherwise I'd go with Neotech too, no need ot go any bigger than 20ha in my world. I swear I've sent something like this to Hong Kong before...

This man knows of which he speaks! The Neotech makes a BadAss K1000 speaker adapter indeed! Nate built me this beauty, and it sounds as good as it looks (and it looks DAMN good)!

I am looking for rubber standoffs for mounting vibration sensitive parts. I have an old HDD cooler from Zalman that came with some that have a male end and a female end that are held together by pliable rubber. Anyone ever seen anything else like them?

Doug:

Unfortunately, I don't have a cheap alternative. What I do have is a really cool product that is expensive

Check out EAR Isoloss Sandwhich Mounts.

Here's a link to the EAR/3M website:

http://www.earsc.com/images/Category/img1-388.gif

Percy sells them on page 19 on his catalog, but it's possible to order them direct for about half that, IIRC. Not sure if they will still sell direct, but I have purchased Isodamp sheets in bulk for EAR as well as other nifty things.

Vibration Dampers

I think they are 6-32

Vibration Dampers

I think they are 6-32

Those look like EAR in fact... Note the recommended uses in the link I posted above...

Anyone know what enclosure/part number this is? Dimensions 4.5 x 3.5 x 2" (LxWxH respectively)