Do It Yourself

I'm looking to do a group run of the KGST boards, please followup on this thread if interested. Thanks -

Anyone already bought this one and/or seriously considering it? Seriously tempted to try one against my M-Dac with the added bonus that it could drive my T1s directly More info: http://soekris.com/products/audio-products/dam1021.html https://hifiduino.wordpress.com/2015/01/30/building-soekris-r-2r-dac/ and a couple of gargantuan diyaudio-threads //UFN

been working on this one a while, with all the popular transistors disappearing, I hope that this one won't go obsolete before the boards are out. I don't think so because Fairchild has said that the bc parts should be available for at least 5 years but onsemi said the same thing. This one is a diamond transistor input set, used as a voltage to current converter. A pair of Wilson current mirrors with input and output cascade as the VAS and a triple darlington output stage. http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/cfa2.pdf if someone knows of better surface mount parts to replace the bc series, I might as well do that from the start. ft >150mhz, hfe &g…

James lin came up with this, I turned it into a circuit board. cascaded current sources et all. http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/srxschematic.jpg http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/srx6.jpg http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/boards/srx6.zip I did make a few changes including balanced input

Crossposted from diyaudio: http://www.onsemi.com/pub/docs/pcn/PD20685.pdf On-semi are discontinuing all of their TO-92 products because of a disagreement with a subcontractor. List includes all the MPSWs.... //UFN

Can anyone recommend a reliable PCB manufacturer in China?

I thought it would be fun to document the insane amount of work it will take to turn the Single Power ES-2 into something useful. Now Kevin had done quite a bit of work for me such as fitted new teflon tube sockets and teflon Stax sockets but that still leaves a lot of shit to do. Here is what it looked like when I got it: The wooden front for the amp section was cracked so Kevin threw it out. The weight of just the empty chassis was pushing 24kg so my first decision was to ditch the PSU and do it internally. First up do the back panel: Here is the reason why I don't add RCA's to my amps... Now for the front panel. Mikhail had plenty of …

Trying to make some DIY USB cable, but I cannot seem to find USB 2.0 type B male plugs anywhere in USA, only some from China on eBay with long shipping estimates. Found some type A plugs on Amazon. For type B, looking for something like these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/170578212079?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

My original Dynahi built in 2008 is still going strong and sounds just a good as they day I finished it. I replaced the 50K volume pot with a 10K as it should've been years ago. I believe KG said 50 was to high. With the 10K the amp sounds perfect but I think I've lost the use of the full range of the volume control. I only use the first 25% now where I used to use up to 50% or more with the 50K. Do you think it would be ok to switch to a 25K volume pot?

I spent the better part of last weekend researching amps for a new pair of headphones. Reading other people's reviews and seeing their pics is fun, but figuring out whether the amp outputs enough power or if the damping factor is >= 8, well that's tedious. So what started as a few formulas on paper eventually (over the span of a week) turned into a website that calculates all this for you. It's a tool I built for myself, but I hope you'll find it useful too: www.audiobot9000.com

I have several OPA627 and OPA637 in 8 pin dip. Some I ordered from digikey, some from ebay that could've been digikey samples and some from ebay that aren't. The problem is I acquired some when there were some fakes going around. I didn't separate one order from another and put them all together. I'm sure some are real and some are fake but is there a definitive way to tell?

as most of us know that beats studios require batteries to properly work. i got my hand on a pair of demo/Retail version of beats studios. these headphones arent wired to have batteries placed in them and the audio input ccable is hard wired to avoid theft. i got a good deal on these, with a spliced cable, what im trying to do here is wire them up so i can use them. This picture shows what the wires look like once stripped of the insulation. two wires one copper and one copper braided with a blue wire. inside the copper braided wire are two wires, one black and one blie, my guess is that these are for the external power source the green and red wires were wrapped i…

and about time... I’ve been keenly anticipating this . Here’s a link for those that are interested or have missed the news; http://www.amb.org/forum/gamma3-high-resolution-dac-development-t2656.html

I can't seem to find it as google returns no results from possible matches from this site, but I do remember somebody (think Kevin himself) discussing and posting a schematic of an updated mod to the SRM-323S to increase the output power to 450v, would be great if somebody or Kevin himself chimed in with the pdf and what needs to be removed and added in place in the 323S for MOAR powah. I've got a spare 323S lying around so want to give it a go. cheers

I want to tackle and finally finish this PINT amp I recently acquired. It's old school and I scored the board for next to nothing, so what the heck. I know the project ended up ceasing because of the crankiness of the 8397. There’s got to be a way to tame this thing. At this point, I’m not sure if I’ve fried the opamps, but I can say that the 8397 gets very very hot. I’m using the LM6172 as my GND channel opamp and this is getting quite warm as well. This is when I power the amp with at least 18v or 24v. I'm getting an unusual amount of DC Offset -- basically the rail supply for each reading that I've done. At first the amp seemed to work but music sounded hollow and not …

I'm building a Xono clone. I need to match 2SK170 JFETs and BC550 BJTs. I'm new to transistor matching - Google has left me a bit confused with the amount of "suggestions". Any clues as to the best / most convenient method, hopefully with a link to a tutorial?

So i just build a crack /w speedball and it all went well and it is sounding great. Except that the stock pot is pretty shit and i wouldn't mind a remote control. After some searching i came across this one: http://www.tentlabs.com/Components/page31/page31.html Some specs: Input impedance: > 40 k-ohm (actual value depends on volume setting) Output impedance: < 8 k-ohm (actual value depends on volume setting) Power: AC or DC, 6 to 10V max, current max 150mA DC, 225mA AC (power connector supplied with module) Volume setting: 64 steps of 1.0 dB Channel imbalance: < 0.15 dB Inputs: 4 Input / Output connectors: Cinch / RCA (can be supplied without conne…

I wanted to re-terminate an HD650 cable to 4pin XLR. What is the best way to strip off the black sleeve without cutting one of the tiny wires? I was trying to carefully clip it with small wire cutters but I keep snipping one of the little wires. I also tried a wire stripper and that was worse. Will it make much difference if one of the wires is not connected (as long as the majority are)? Also, I see that the HD650 cable doesn't have shielding so I assume one doesn't anything to the 5th metal connector.

Dunno if anyone here might want to say something in this thread: http://www.head-fi.org/t/707823/intellectual-property-giveaway-on-the-discovery-of-terminal-illness#post_10316570 But I will certainly miss him.

Interesting read..... http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html

I noticed a channel imbalance in my Pearl phono. It appeared out of the blue, was working fine up until a few days ago. Anyone have any suggestions where to begin trouble shooting? Does anyone still have the schematic/build PDF? Pass DIY site only has the Pearl 2. It is the phono, I've isolated every other component including the cartridge. And I'm getting perfect channel balance with another stand alone phono.

well the stax mafia has been fairly busy the last few days. So a person over there was asking about a specific amplifier that they thought was WAY overpriced, and significantly under performing. Helped out by the fact that a certain moderator over there was shilling the hell out of it and doing his typical hatchet job on various posts etc. Well that's enough to get us involved. Combined with a picture of high enough resolution posted on the 6 moons website. Guys, seriously talk about giving away the farm. Well... http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/alostudio6.pdf What a massive piece of crap this is. If you really want to build one, its trivially e…

For those interested in another solid state circuit; http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/248112-pass-stat-headphone-amplifier-concept.html#post3753546

Hey y'all, I've lurked around here for a few years but now I'm planning on getting started building amps, and I could use a bit of assistance. I've never soldered anything and I've probably stripped a wire once, so I'm gonna need to ease into this. From what I've read here and on Innerfidelity the Bottlehead Crack or Torpedo would be good places to start, as they're simple builds and pair well with my HD650s. Any other suggestions? I read this plan on getting the Hakko FX-888 as my solder 'gun' and 63-37 eutectic solder. According to tangentsoft I need small screwdrivers, small cutters and pliers, and a wire stripper. Are any other supplies needed? After this…

I'm thinking about using the 4 gang ALPS pot for my dynahi. I want to mount it on a pcb but I don't see any available so I thought if I took two epsilon 27 boards I could make one. The first board would fit the front, the second board looks like it would need the front trimmed off to fit the back section. The grounds are tied together on those boards so I'm not sure how that comes into play since I've never wired a pot for balanced audio before. How do you wire a volume pot for balanced audio and do you think this would work?