Do It Yourself

My dad just produced a stax sr-3 and srd-5, it looks to be in good condition but I'd like to hear it and the L and R speaker inputs have this strange plug on them. Does anyone know if the female equivalent is still sold or the name of this peculiar plug ? I'm thinking of making an adapter cable and trying to feeding the srd-5 from my beta22's XLR outputs (once it returns from repair). thanks for any help

For those interested in another solid state circuit; http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/248112-pass-stat-headphone-amplifier-concept.html#post3753546

Looking for DIY amp cases that resemble the ARC amps. So must be silver and the love handles are a nice touch Needs to be around 16" length along the front of the case. Thanks guys!

Porn and the Art of Vacuum TubeFabrication - Weblog - Mxrk Now that's what I call DIY

Does anyone have measured dimensions for the Cardas GRFA DBL RCA jacks? I am trying to do a PCB and case layout, and Cardas doesn't give quite enough information away to actually accomplish this. Even better, anyone have an Eagle part library for these? Drawings for an alternative part from another manufacturer (Vampire?) that is of decent quality would be fine, too.

Any you guys know what's in this box? [url=http://www.head-fi.org/forums/6245035-post760.html]Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio - View Single Post - REVIEW: Audiotailor

I noticed a channel imbalance in my Pearl phono. It appeared out of the blue, was working fine up until a few days ago. Anyone have any suggestions where to begin trouble shooting? Does anyone still have the schematic/build PDF? Pass DIY site only has the Pearl 2. It is the phono, I've isolated every other component including the cartridge. And I'm getting perfect channel balance with another stand alone phono.

A good friend of mine owns a McIntosh amp and pre-amp--both vintage, probably 1970s. My friend likes audio but doesn't know too much about the technical side of things (and no, my "friend" is not me). He needs some help with this McIntosh gear. My friend's apartment building caught fire and his apartment, though not burned, was totaled. His entire apartment was soaked through due to the fire hoses and smoked through due to the, well, smoke. The gear is now sitting at an audio store in NYC, and has been for a while. He has been quoted a "repair" of $2000.00 for the McIntosh gear and a Hafler amp. He does not have a good idea of what's going on with the gear, and he doe…

Hi, I think I know the answer to this but I'll throw it out anyhow. I have some DMMs and would like to know about what you guys do with respect to calibrations. So I'll use 2 of my DMMs as an example. Fluke 87 and NEW VC99. I put them both in an electrical outlet at the same time and they both show the same V. The Fluke I bought around '96, the VC99 is about a month old. My plan is to measure some caps, resistors, etc and see how much they agree. So far the voltages measure the same. I'm not sure what it tells me if they disagree, but I thought I would just play around with a NEW meter and my Ol' Fluke. I may just send off the Fluke and get it calibra…

Has anyone built this balanced beast and tried it out?

Hi guys, Been wanting to build this for some time, and was considering a M3 and σ11 to drive some home made computer speakers. I'm leaning towards a nice 2ch set of full range speakers. Based on the microFonken design. Its been awhile since I've done anything on this scale, as such, it would be much appreciated if I can get some advise/opinions/correction on the attached BOM. Cheers in advance

Does anyone have schematics for either the Gold (balanced?) or the unbalanced version of these? I told a person I dealt with (diyaudio user) that I thought they might be available (and told him why bother), but his interest is just in the front end section as a preamp). I saw what is available on the eservice info site, but can't remember my login there. The user says he has some incomplete schematics with pencil markings on them. I had the attached jpeg, but think this could be what he already has. Thanks for anything you can find.

I'd been wanting to build a pair of speakers for a while and finally took the plunge this summer. Right now I've pretty much finished up the bare cabinets and am waiting for a pair of drivers and a couple cross over components to finish them up. So far everything's gone well but I have a couple of questions. With this being my first build, some of my cuts aren't absolutely perfect and so after gluing the panels together, some panels jutted out just a little bit. I ground down the seams which made the surface smooth but now the box isn't perfectly square especially around a couple of corners. You can't really tell by looking but the boxes don't quite sit flat. Woul…

I normally use FMs in most cases, but I see that they have come out with the FR series which are supposedly lower ESR, higher ripple current and longer life? Anyone use these, or are FM good enough? Or other? Use for now would be in PSU filtering for an I/V stage.

That's right. A few upgrades and tweaks for the old gal. On the list will be opamps, wiring reroutes and upgrades, power supply changes. First up, I'm going to remove these JRC4735B opamps (assuming I have correctly identified them) and replace them with...dunno. After reading up a bit it appears that these are part of the problem with this player sounding so dark. I'll have to do some comparisons, but it seems like an OPA2134 could be a candidate, or an AD8610 (or 20). Guesses? I'll have to check the pinouts to be sure.

Ooh, this does look interesting .... Introducing δ1 (delta1), the first of a series of application modules for the LCDuino-1. I will add more info here, but for now here is a 3D render "teaser" of the PCB: The LCDuino-1 I/O processor - Page 20 - Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio

So over the past two weekends I re-cased my original Dynahi. It's always had a slight 60 Hz hum from the transformer (my best guess). The amp boards, psu and tranny are all in one 16" x 12" x 4" case from par-metal. This time I put the transformer in it's own aluminum project box with a cover and then put that in the case. Then I put an aluminum barrier plate that runs the length of the case in between the amp boards and the power side. I used unshield twisted pair wire to hookup the input and output of the amp. The hum is still there as it was before without any of that. My guess is that aluminum project box is not a good shield and I should use shielded twi…

I moved this from the build gallery thread cuz it was getting too far off topic. I am playing around with a Rotel 991 CD player and was going to replace the exisiting I/V stage with THS4031 and AD8599 buffers. My plan was to use Aries adapters and socket the opamps, with Pana FM 100uf caps as close to the V+/V- pins, and somewhere in the area of 1-3.3nf across V+/V-. I had removed the stock opamps, so I put a std. Mill Max socket in one of the I/V spots, and put the Pana FMs on the bottom, going from pins 7-3 (V+) and pins 4-3 (V-). The board has a top ground plane which would be a better spot to run these too than pin 3, but I felt I could get the caps closer to the …

I was going thru my stash to see if I had enough to build a Dynamight and found that I'm short a pair of each of these. I then found that they aren't available anymore Does anyone have (2) of each they would sell, or barring that, anyone know what the singles of these are (if there is such an animal)? If not, would something like matched pairs of 2SA970 / 2SC2240s work?

Dear HC crew, I'm getting desperate and could really use some input on troubleshooting... First off I've been plugging away at this old thing for a while now, was always afraid to post up here for various reasons but at this point I don't have much to lose anymore. I do recognize I am still relatively new to DIY but I've been doing what I can with what I've got. I have a long winding thread with chronicle of the madness while it was working great; more than happy to remove the link if the admins do mind. There are links somewhere in there to the original schematic but it won't be of much help. http://www.superbestaudiofriends.org/index.php?threads/melos-s…

Anyone ever tried them? If so, what setup worked best and how quiet were they? I've been thinking up logistics of the SRM212 I'm recasing with the new HV power supply. Thinking about using a small 40mm fan since the heatsinks I will be attempting to use (same ones as what I'm attempting to put in the mini Dynalo) aren't that big and I want to crank it to 10mA. I'll be using one per channel so 2 total and each will be dissipating around 11-12W. Guesstimating 4C/W rise on the sinks (no specs stated in the listing) that's around 75-80C on its own If it's 5C/W then it's really bad times.

I just boought a locky_z curve tracer https://www.ebay.com/itm/Locky-z-2019-Curve-tracer/114233327020?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Has anyone here used one or have experience with one? I was reading on another forum that the ones he's built with used parts sometimes fail. They're also swapping out the relays, electrolitic caps, op amps, voltage ref, and some of the resistors for better accuracy. I'm waiting on a power supply so can't use it just yet.

DACT Type 21 Stepped Attenuator Potentiometer 50K 300B - eBay (item 120473999989 end time May-24-10 11:05:02 PDT) Check these out, they look rather nice, any reason why I should try one out? The Rk27 on my millett is suffering from a much annoying channel inbalance! One of these would fit right in!

I was thinking about slapping this together on a breadboard: https://www.fairchildsemi.com/application-notes/AN/AN-6610.pdf The transistors listed (92PU01 / 92PU51) must be ancient as I cannot find them. I ran across somewhat of a datasheet here: http://www.datasheets360.com/part/detail/92pu01/3582415256795608549/?alternatePartManufacturerId=0 It looks like a Fairchild KSD882Y might come close? Or could I use anything capable of a bit of power (such as MPSW06/56)? It would seem that an Ic of 2A on the 92PU01 is pretty high for what might be required here?

I happened to be reading the Head-Fi DIY forum today for the first time in probably a month or more and came across a thread that pointed at Par-Metals site. The short of it is there appears to have been a semi-catestrophic fire at Par-Metals office/warehouse at the end of January which has currently halted all production of enclosures. I checked Antec's site (the one I actually care about) and they are very limited in what they have as of 2/4 but are saying that they'll be restocked in one to two months. Anyway, just figured I'd give folks a heads up. I can work around the delay on for my project so it's no big deal.