Do It Yourself

DIY Gods, I'm trying to find out if there are any good but not excessively expensive 3-way rotary speaker output selector switches available that any of you DIYers may know about. I'll also want a regular 3-way rotary input selector switch but have no idea which are decent and which are crap. My plan is to eventually integrate a Stax transformer, headphone transformer and regular speaker outs in an amp and want to have a nice big selector knob for them. That way I can have one integrated amp that can run anything I'm ever likely to own and have ample power to drive any and all difficult loads. Any recommendations?

Had a few transformers from ToroIDY with two 115V primarys I needed to serialize, unfortunately no markings of the phase. Hook'ed up one of the secondaries to a function generator, and serialized the two primaries. Having two free leads and two connected leads (CT) Measured the voltage V1 from CT to one lead, and V2 from CT to second lead. Finally measured the voltage V3 from lead to lead. If V1 + V2 = V3, then the two windings are in phase. If V1+V2 ≠ V3, the the two windings are out of phase. Are there an easier way of determine the phase of transformer windings?

Greetings. I recently bought a used Sennheiser HD600 from a friend for practically nothing more than a song, knowing it had problems with the cable on the right side. There is intermittent continuity, so the audio keeps cutting out if the cable is moved just so. I know there are several manufacturers that make replacement cables such as Clou and Cardas, but I don't feel like spending CAD$200 on -wire- right now. (yes, some of you will call me insane for not immediately picking up the Cardas or Clou cable. Well to that I say phthptftphfftt!!! ) Anyways, I was wondering if anyone knows where to get the seemingly proprietary connectors that Sennheiser uses in their headphon…

I was thinking of getting some to case up my b22. Mailed perforate.com a hell lot of times and still no reply. anyone know where to get them?

Aside from Alps RK-50, are there any quality quad potentiometers? I'm just curious if there are any others out there.

Hello, new to Head-case, but an experienced elec tech. After demoing a friend's, I'd like to build a balanced Dynahi, but am having troubles tracking down documentation and boards. Can anyone steer me in the right direction? Thanks!

For those that have not been following Tangent's thread on Headwize. http://headwize.com/ubb/showpage.php?fnum=3&tid=5806 No more board chopping in half, and apparently bye bye to the TLE rail splitter (yay). Now where can I order some SMD 0.1% thin film resistors?....... -Ed

hey, I was wonder if a 400 VDC rated cap would be suitable for replacing the interstage coupling caps in my MPX3 SE? There are 2 caps. I got a tip from Mr. Hansen about a line of capacitors I'd like to try, just don't know how to go about verifying they will work.

Well as Ti said it "the cat is out of the bag" so I thought I'd put it here: AMB and MisterX are working on the y2, an add-on board to the y1 that adds ASRC, WM8741/2 DAC to the y1) There is a thread about it on HF's DIY forum. Link

So I am getting ready to order a Hakko 936 as my cheap-o irons have pretty much had it. Which soldering tips do you guys recommend? I'm not real big on single use tools, so which tip would you consider the swiss army knife for the Hakko? I will be soldering my first SMD parts so something that runs the gammut would be great. Thanks

I ran across a weird problem the other night when using my Dynalo (headamp V2 board). I have an amb e22 DC offset protection circuit on the output, and when I have a set of headphones plugged in (T50rp fostex) and the volume turned all the way down, the protect circuit activates (cycles). Once I turn the volume up a little it stops doing that and works normally. Before I dig into it to try to figure out why, I just thought I'd ask here to see if this might just be normal? EDIT: answered that. My work dynalo does not do this, and it also has an e22 on it. Same phones (not the same pair) as well.

I need to place an order to Farnell through Newark for some parts I cannot get here in the US (an Euro footprint PCB mount transformer). They have a $20 surcharge for this service. Would anyone else like some parts? I'm going to be ordering in the next day or so, so this will be quick. Some particularly worthwhile gems at Farnell are: LCR Components EXFS/HR box polystyrene caps, Newark part number 73K0558 ROE MKP1837 caps, Newark part number 26M1608 Just let me know here in this thread and we can work payment details out later...

I'm modding an Adcom CD player for a member here, installing a pair of Colin's I/V boards (player is balanced), and am debating on how and where to connect ground on these to the main board and power. These boards have on-board shunt regulators, so I am tapping power from the main filter caps right after the rectifiers for the 2 +/-15V power supplies for the analog section on the main board. AFAIK, it is usually not a good idea to connect more than 1 ground per board. The options I see are: Ground the boards through the power connector Ground the input of the boards Ground the output of the boards Currently, I am leaning towards #1, thinking that noise from the shunt r…

Standalone HDCD decoder? digital in and out, nothing fancy. PMD100 chip inside. Any thoughts? Maybe even an upsampler too as another function...

Yet Another XLR Question... Building my first balanced amp, some connection questions: What do you do with the shield? Reading the RANE app notes seems not appropriate for parts of this, since I am using 4-pin XLR, and the 3-pin standard has pin 1 as ground. I am reworking the previous 4-conductore rewiring my phones right now, and chopped the previously wired 1/4" plug cable part way to wire in a 4-pin female/4-pin male (the male will be the main phone connector into a 4-pin female on the amp), turning this cable portion into an adapter for when I want to use the phones from an SE amp. The main cable terminates at the phones in a 4-pin mini XLR, in which the …

I want to tackle and finally finish this PINT amp I recently acquired. It's old school and I scored the board for next to nothing, so what the heck. I know the project ended up ceasing because of the crankiness of the 8397. There’s got to be a way to tame this thing. At this point, I’m not sure if I’ve fried the opamps, but I can say that the 8397 gets very very hot. I’m using the LM6172 as my GND channel opamp and this is getting quite warm as well. This is when I power the amp with at least 18v or 24v. I'm getting an unusual amount of DC Offset -- basically the rail supply for each reading that I've done. At first the amp seemed to work but music sounded hollow and not …

Any recommendations for one, used and cheap preferably? (I know, non-HC). I was looking at a couple of B&K 4011s or maybe an HP3311a? Other? Or am I better off using a PC with my mAudio box and a program (can't remember which one I have, but it isn't bad).

Thinking about recalbing my K701s... Any suggestions for a good 4-condutor cable? \ I will be running it balanced. How does Mogami 2534 rate? Thanks Pete

My apologies if this is in the wrong forum. Years ago I came under the possession of a beat up pair of Realistic Nova Pro headphones at a garage sale for two dollars. Not in the best condition, but serviceable enough for use. For a while now in the absence of speakers and disposable funding, they've served not only as my main choice for computer audio but also the headphones I carry with me to provide personal audio on the go. In the past two months alone, I have opened them up multiple times to replace oxidized connections, resoldering almost every connection in the left can alone, to maintain their functionality. Yeah, even though they're collector's items of sort…

33 Step 100K Stereo Volume Control tube Preamplifier - eBay (item 150423738955 end time Apr-13-10 19:23:07 PDT) No personal investment, but Craig wanted to know so I thought I'd ask

Anyone have a minijack (3.5mm stereo, panel mountable) that they like? I am having problems with a flaky Switchcraft 35RAP whatever they are, and need to replace. I have some Kobicon that I have used with no problems so far, but looking for any other suggestions.

Uh yeah, so I'm failing pretty hard at figuring out why the right channel doesn't make sound. I checked the DCR from each tab of the dynamic driver (which is hooked up to the electret, yes I did mod them so it's not run through the electret into the dynamic driver anymore) and it measures correctly, around 330 ohms. Measured from driver tab to tip/ring and it measures the same. The hell am I doing wrong here? I resoldered the tabs just to make sure, still to no avail, and it's always the right channel, and not the left.

Anyone ever try something like this? https://audioxpress.com/files/attachment/2685 I wanted to see if I could find something passive that would take an unbalanced signal from a preamp and convert it o a balanced output. Is this worth trying? Or would I damage the balanced amp?

Hi All: This is the build thread for the Kerry design PSU. I posted BOM and schematic with Kerry's permission here and will be posting more information including photos of my test build. My test build use the partially-assembled GRHV boards. I soldered in the the pass transistor and the resistors to set up my desired output voltage. The voltages, timer all tested as expected without load. Fire up your soldering irons and happy building! GRHVBase-v2-production.pdf GRHVBase-BOM - V2 production.xlsx

Memory Distortion Philosophies I have no idea what he's talking about... but the way his design blatantly goes against all "audiophile design philosophy" is rather intriguing