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Knife free chocolate goodies with the Brits.

Yeah, another attempt at a joke. Near monochrome scene until either someone pissed off another at the artist studios over by the train station, or the drugs took effect. Thankfully one car over, not mine. In other news TTArtisan not long ago released a really cheap (like $200 new, $170 used) tilt (not shift) 50mm f/1.4 FF lens in a variety of mounts. Not sure how likely I’d use for its intended purpose, but been fun this week to experiment with other ones around the house.

I am sorry for your loss. Its difficult to evaluate what could have gone wrong, if the psu worked without being connected to the amp then the possibilities are bad wiring between psu and amp board(s) or an issue with the amp board(s)... generally it is a high risk strategy to power up the entre amp to full voltages immediately... during building I hand measure *every* component to make sure it is what I think it is. I have once received different transistors from what I ordered (from a reputable supplier) in bags marked with the components I thought I was getting... turned out to be a picking error... Putting them through a component tester alerted me to the fact they were not what I was expecting. I use an insulation tester to verify there is no leakage between wires within the cable(s) that go from psu to amp. I use a pat tester to verify no leakage from transformer(s) to the psu case no leakage primary to secondary within the transformer(s). before power up I check there is no continuity between any metal tab on the transistors and the L brackets that connect to the heatsinks. I also check the ground wiring very carefully to make sure the amp pcb(s) amp pcbs share a common ground point with all the psu pcb(s) after that I connect the psu to one amp channel only (if possible) and check for continuity between each voltage rail on the psu and the appropriate voltage input on the amp board. This makes sure the wiring to the psu socket, the cable from psu to amp and amp socket to amp pcb is correct. I then do the same for the other amp channel. If the amp connects a voltage rail to the heaters of a valve, I also check for continuity between that voltage rail and the appropriate pins of the valve socket. I prefer to test the psu by itself and run it for several hours not connected to an amp. I bring the psu up slowly on a variac and monitor output voltages and their drift over time. I also use a thermal probe and (carefully) check for overheating components. When possible I power test up one amp channel at a time (again with the psu on a variac) and monitoring voltages on the amp board as I slowly increase the voltage to the transformers. If I don't see all the voltages increasing at about the same rate I abort because a voltage rail is being too heavily loaded - probably by a short.. If I hear the variac buzzing loudly I have a short and abort. I also monitor DC offset and DC ballance on the amp audio output. If this goes well I leave the channel for an hour or so again periodically monitoring voltages, temperatures and DC offset, ballance etc. I then power down, disconnect that channel and test the other amp channel (if possible) before testing both amp channels at the same time. After a few hours powered up I proceed to sine wave testing using a signal generator and monitoring using an oscilloscope. Connecting headphones does not happen until I am very sure the am is stable and reliable. Its much slower this way but provides more opportunity for catching a fault early and less damage if a fault does occur.

took this almost b&w photo last year (just a touch of green showed up. I didn't realize it's lack of color until later.

Almost on my last trip to San Francisco.

Not only did I take [a few] photos, I took [a few] photos at headphone gatherings. I also got suckered into the Light.io camera. 🤕 Well, basically pulled into all the Valley origin camera companies. Stay strong Foveon! And, I guess, Apple and Google.

Not today, but yesterday: had an interview with a hiring manager, it's a really good fit both ways. They called me back THE SAME DAY to set up an (actually) in-person interview, which means they will probably move forward with an offer. I am excite.

Would prefer it in Walnut, but the shitty maple will have to do. Also tried, and fucked up some dog bone (bow ties) for the rainbow poplar shoe display go the closet.

Please check the wiring from the PSU board, through the connectors and umbilical cord all the way to the amp board. If a PSU regulator output is shorted to GND or to another power rail due to a wiring mistake, you’ll see the explosion. Check every component in the PSU as some may look okay from the outside but may have been damaged already. I know it could be heart sunken but that’s what you need to do to bring it back to life. Btw I see you didn’t use the ceramic insulators on the PSU transistors. Although it may not be the cause of the failure this time, the ceramic insulators are recommended over the silicone ones.

Found these this morning: The bird feeder formerly hanging on our porch and a remembrance of what was in there

I haven't had any issues with the 25K, but I'm using JFET input on the DynaFET (only option). If you use the THAT BJT quads on an SS input stage, that would probably be a problem as those require low input impedance. CFA3 with JFETs is probably not a problem, though Kevin could clarify.

Finished Night Agent and my long-lasting impression is that Luciane Buchanan is hella cute. The show was a nice little popcorn muncher -- I enjoyed that they had a female president without overly patting themselves on the back for that. Need to get back to Because This is My First Life, Udemy, &c. ...but I need a mindless guilty pleasure like that one for this time of night. Recommendations accepted. I'm thinking Beef since it gets "dark", according to the 30-words-or-less description. And since I've been having my own rage incidents.

Well that definitely wasn't . I was thinking of a scene that looks desaturated, but isn't. It just appears that way. It's just the lighting etc. An opposite to your photo would be desaturated Santa. https://brodyqat.wordpress.com/2009/12/28/desaturated-santa/

I own one of the red ones. I have never successfully taken a photo with it.

An Evening with Belafonte/Makeba in the morning

Last stage of the dresser build happening this weekend. Hated Waterlox finish so scrapped that and going with Tried and True again.

I would stick to 10k

Took a few pics today, to better understand the project. The extra space in the dado underneath is where the LED light strips will be mounted. This is one of three decks receiving the same treatment.

Now I think I’ve a 300B filament power unit I like. All smd on bottom side and common (through hole) trimmers and LEDs, and the Tracos of course on top side. With trimmers voltage at tube pins is easily set to 5.00 +/-0,05V. There is voltage drop cross wires and solid-state relays. Cover with ventilation slots. The Tracos produce some heat.

Hi guys, I spent 2 months building a T2 and today was expected to be the day of completion, but it exploded. When the power supply is not loaded, everything is fine and the correct voltage can be output. However, I connected the amplifier and turned on the power, and after 6 seconds of high voltage start-up, the power supply exploded. 10M90S I get it from MOUSER, it should not be a fake. I set both RV1 and RV2 in the center. The explosion killed the 10M90S，fqp8n80c，1N4007 and 1n4751a at +500V, and the same situation over at -500V. Did I do something wrong?Why did it explode？Expect someone to answer,THX