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Everything posted by Pars
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I'll take a stab at your questions. I haven't built the full size SMT Dynalo, but have built a few of the mini Dynalo's, which are pretty much all SMT. The resistors for the mini are all 0805 with the exception of the 20R, which were 1206. Vishay TNPW 0.1% 25ppm were used for most. I'm not sure on sizes for this version however. Kevin's schematics typically do not show power rail bypassing on them. Follow the board values. These appear to be LEDs and not caps. Kevin normally specs 1.7V red LEDs, such as Liteon LTL-307ELC. I don't have a BOM for the full-size SMT version. This project is still a very valid amp. Some would suggest the current feedback amp (CFA-2 or CFA-3), and I might concur with that opinion. Be sure to use the golden reference power supply (GRLV) as well, as it is very good and makes a difference.
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Lots of peeps have had problems with Dalbani selling fake shit. I'm not so sure I would be so quick to think the Mouser IXYS parts are your problem... possible, but not likely.
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Shit... I didn't realize that he had passed away, and just recently too. RIP Albert.
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What Von Schweikerts do you have? I've owned a pair of VR4 Gen IIs for a number of years now; still happy with them.
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and now for something completely different part 3
Pars replied to kevin gilmore's topic in Do It Yourself
The case looks decent... something from ebay/aliexpress? It looks like the switch was drilled for a Bulgin type vandal switch... -
I always thought L100s sounded like shit back then. Decent (re: punchy) for rock, but not much else. I much preferred the Infinity Monitors we had (and the ESS AMT-1s). EDIT: BTW, Nelson Pass is a fan. https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/354985-ess-amt-unpack.html#post6217253
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Yep. Never bought from them, but littlediode is a known fake seller, though IIRC not everything they sell is.
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^ Yes it is. When I first looked at the pics, I thought the pot shaft extender was a pencil...
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From the schematic I have, the 500K resistors are from the inputs to ground, so would be in parallel with the volume pot. See if that value changes as you move the pot from 0 volume to full. That said, measuring resistors in circuit will give you sometimes strange results as you don't know the exact interactions with connected components. Also, ohming out resistors for what is suspected to be a leakage problem won't really tell you anything. Can you post detailed pics of the amp boards? Are the resistors lifted off of the board, or installed right on the surface? And what is the origin of this KGSSHV? i.e. who built it?
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Some of us do or have used PRP PR9372 resistors in the past. Things I've noticed about them that I don't like include the epoxy or other jacketing used on the resistors is fragile and easily damaged. The 1/4W variants are rated to 300V; 1/2W and above for 500V. I would presume that actual performance meeting this rating would depend on the integrity of the jacketing?
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Is VT4C still around? Their website has been down for quite some time. Is the pot itself grounded to the chassis (thru the nose)? Other than that, what Doug said makes good sense.
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Anyone used a Grace F9e? Almost snagged one today... seems quite interesting.
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You won't need heatsinks while it is unloaded.
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No. powering it up without those components won't tell you much if anything.
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and now for something completely different part 3
Pars replied to kevin gilmore's topic in Do It Yourself
I presume the front end on these is similar or the same as the SS Dynalo? If so, JFETs sound a lot better than the THAT340 does. -
Happy Birthday Rob!
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Stunning is right! Nice job boyz!!!
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Gawd, you made my ears cringe with that... I think my '70 Chevelle SS had one in it. Never bought any 8 tracks, but played one in it once. Almost threw it out the window! Man were those things bad.
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Kerry Design mini GRHV\GRLV and JoaMat mini T2 Group Buy
Pars replied to mwl168's topic in Do It Yourself
R4 and R6 are crooked... tsk tsk.. EDIT: j/k BTW, they look great!