Thanks guys,I will fix the problem. I will report once the problem solved.

Hi~ Joehpj, 

I and my friend had noted your problem of KGST, and we found we should be in the same country Taiwan, right?
If you did need any local help, please feel free to let me know. There is a discussion on the local forum, AA. I think you should know it. We all be there!
Good luck!

 

update:

I thought it was the 10M90S so I carefully cleaned up the flux and made sure those was isolated.

Ran for just 3 seconds and -400V exploded too.  so scary.

I found the 8N80C was short between either of the three pin on both +-400V.

So I assume both 8N80C were dead? Though I didn't desolder those, I believe those shouldn't be short if those were normal even on board.

Maybe those 24V zener bought from the local store are the murderer?  Or it's because I didn't use any thermal grease for the 8N80C?

I thought those were directly contacting the cooler so I didn't use any thermal grease.

Edited October 7, 201510 yr by joehpj

if the 8n80c shorts either drain or source to gate, then the zeners are going to pop.

the 24v zener is strictly to protect the 8n80c on power turnoff, does not do anything for power on.

suggest you purchase known real parts from mouser

8n80c needs thermal grease or thermal washer, but that does not have anything to do with the zeners blowing up.

Has to be the fets now that both channels are blown.  I'm hesitant to use any part not sold by a proper distributor so no local shops even here in Iceland. 

learned a lesson. The PCB says 12V for the zeners and those were what I've bought from mouser. Later I found in this topic 24V would be a better choice. Then I bought the 24V zeners from a local store. Wrong decision. I believe that's why the PSU were fine at first then blown after several times of running,

Should I replace all active components in case of safety reason? 

 

Edited October 7, 201510 yr by joehpj

Yes. 

How about the 1N4007s? Those are a little bit hard to desolder.

Anyway, thanks for replying. You guys are sooooo kind.

I doubt they would be damaged but do a quick diode test on them.  If they measure fine then they should be fine. 

HI!

I'm interesting to build this amp. Where is sourcing for kit or PCB's?

Got a mirror? Look in it... there's your sourcing.

Also, read your welcome PM.

Got a mirror? Look in it... there's your sourcing.

Also, read your welcome PM.

Ha-ha. No any pcb or parts in my mirror. Only tired face.

As well as no PM messages in my box.

Edited October 26, 201510 yr by dmkbox

No kit, if you want to get a PCB you'll have to get the board files from Dr. Gilmore's site, send them to a board maker and have them made yourself, unless you get in on a group buy.

OK, my chassis is finished. (My homage to Steampunk.) Just DON'T remind me how long this has taken!

A few minor tweeks, including tightening the legs up, then I can start soldering.  Another 6 months maybe?? No point rushing these things, and, to be fair, I'm only after that longest build prize.

@‌dmkbox  No, this is not a kit!

 

 

 

More pics at http://cubeupload.com/codes/32d8a5

Edited July 23, 20179 yr by valve5425
Update picture links

That's proper insanity!!! 

I suspect that's what my wife thinks!

That's proper insanity!!! 

Actually, I am 

 

And this looks soooo cool. I really love it. Are the bent copper tubes for ventilation?

 

And what about fingerprints on that copper? Only touch with white gloves?

Edited November 1, 201510 yr by insanity

Cheers. Yes the tubes are vents and the heatsinks will sit just below. You may have to wait a while, but I'll post more pics when it's all finished.

amazing, what kind of wood?

From a plank of elm I've had sitting around for the last 15 years.

Absolutely gorgeous!

What treatment did you use on the top copper?

I love the piping on the heat sinks

AAAgh! That top was a pain in the butt. It's 3mm copper sheet which has been polished, buffed and then waxed with Renaissance wax. Should last 12 months between waxing and the wood can take the wax as well. (The elm was oiled with Tung oil before waxing.) I did consider lacquer but apparently you can't get the depth of shine. However, you only need to look at the top and it scratches, so I'll see how it goes and may lacquer it at a later stage.

The plan is for the top to unplug from the PCB's, and the heat vents and valve bases all unbolt, so it won't be as complicated as it seems to take it apart later.

The piping is just 10mm copper plumbing elbows set into a brass block.

Absolutely magnificent!

Thanks for the kind comments folks.

Gread gods, that's a masterpiece !