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kevin gilmore
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Hi~ Joehpj, 

I and my friend had noted your problem of KGST, and we found we should be in the same country Taiwan, right?
If you did need any local help, please feel free to let me know. There is a discussion on the local forum, AA. I think you should know it. We all be there!
Good luck!

 

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update:

I thought it was the 10M90S so I carefully cleaned up the flux and made sure those was isolated.

Ran for just 3 seconds and -400V exploded too. :wacko: so scary.

I found the 8N80C was short between either of the three pin on both +-400V.

So I assume both 8N80C were dead? Though I didn't desolder those, I believe those shouldn't be short if those were normal even on board.

Maybe those 24V zener bought from the local store are the murderer?  Or it's because I didn't use any thermal grease for the 8N80C?

I thought those were directly contacting the cooler so I didn't use any thermal grease.

Edited by joehpj
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if the 8n80c shorts either drain or source to gate, then the zeners are going to pop.

the 24v zener is strictly to protect the 8n80c on power turnoff, does not do anything for power on.

suggest you purchase known real parts from mouser

8n80c needs thermal grease or thermal washer, but that does not have anything to do with the zeners blowing up.

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learned a lesson. The PCB says 12V for the zeners and those were what I've bought from mouser. Later I found in this topic 24V would be a better choice. Then I bought the 24V zeners from a local store. Wrong decision. I believe that's why the PSU were fine at first then blown after several times of running,

Should I replace all active components in case of safety reason? 

 

Edited by joehpj
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  • 3 weeks later...

OK, my chassis is finished. (My homage to Steampunk.) Just DON'T remind me how long this has taken!

A few minor tweeks, including tightening the legs up, then I can start soldering. :) Another 6 months maybe?? No point rushing these things, and, to be fair, I'm only after that longest build prize.

@dmkbox  No, this is not a kit!

 

KYh1wE.jpg

 

bD8m37.jpg

 

More pics at http://cubeupload.com/codes/32d8a5

Edited by valve5425
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AAAgh! That top was a pain in the butt. It's 3mm copper sheet which has been polished, buffed and then waxed with Renaissance wax. Should last 12 months between waxing and the wood can take the wax as well. (The elm was oiled with Tung oil before waxing.) I did consider lacquer but apparently you can't get the depth of shine. However, you only need to look at the top and it scratches, so I'll see how it goes and may lacquer it at a later stage.

The plan is for the top to unplug from the PCB's, and the heat vents and valve bases all unbolt, so it won't be as complicated as it seems to take it apart later.

The piping is just 10mm copper plumbing elbows set into a brass block.

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