Wow, that was a lot of work! Looks great (even if I don't know what half of it means)!

4 hours ago, Flyingsparks said:

 

 

Very nice!

This is great, now we have somebody in charge of documentation!!!   

Seriously though, excellent work and not nearly enough multimeters.   

Thanks. I ran out of bench space to fit more meters
The thermal camera is a Infratec VarioCAM hr Research with the IRBIS3 software. The amp is in a 2U modushop case.
I got motivated to try out the things I learnt in the Keysight scope month videos.

Good build,    and it has the right amount and type of output sockets......   

Which parts can be left unpopulated on the carbon v5 board if I don't plan on using either servo? From what I remember the 4N25, OP27, 1uf/50V cap, 200ohm, 5kOhm, two .1uf caps, and one PZTA06 are all for the servos. I forget if the two 1N914s in the corner of the board or the 12V zener beside the PZTA06 were necessary though.

Hi All,

Finally I just finished all the wiring and assembly. When I connect my carbon to electricity the first time, I got following issues:       

1. the +ve power board, the 20k Ohm resistor got smoke.

2. only one LED on each carbon board is lighted up. But the one is lighted up on the LED close to the board name and another one is on the further side of the board name.

Attached please find the photo of my gear. Can you give me some advice on how I can troubleshoot?

Thanks.

Do you have a variac? or a lab supply? 

The 20k getting toasted can be caused by the LT1021 not working and/or the cascoded current source not working.

Also, I suggest you test the power supplies first before hooking them up to the amp boards.

As sorenb suggested, get a variac to gradually bring up the PSU while monitoring the regulated output. Once the PSUs are tested and working then hook them up to the amp board one at a time, again using the variac, to test each amp board.

 

Just a caution regarding these supplies and a variac... Until there is sufficient input voltage for the opamps to start up, they will behave strangely and all the LEDs will not come up.
And to echo mwl1968's comment, it is very poor practice to not test the PSUs first before connecting the amp board(s) if possible.


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1 hour ago, Pars said:

Just a caution regarding these supplies and a variac... Until there is sufficient input voltage for the opamps to start up, they will behave strangely and all the LEDs will not come up.
And to echo mwl1968's comment, it is very poor practice to not test the PSUs first before connecting the amp board(s) if possible.


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....relevant for GRLV .... this is GRHV
 

Oh... Never mind... bitch!





See SNL, Emily Litella


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On 4/1/2017 at 4:47 AM, sorenb said:

Yep Schurter DD11.0114.1110

Soren or anyone,

So with one of these, and a dual primary transformer (0-110-110), you can switch voltage from US 115 to Intl. 220 with just the correct fuse drawer?

For US use, I have a 693-4301.1014.03 fuse drawer in my cart as well (I think this one has the voltage selector for 110/220). For the US, I believe we only fuse the hot and not the neutral. Does this look like what I want?

Thanks!

9 minutes ago, Pars said:

Soren or anyone,

So with one of these, and a dual primary transformer (0-110-110), you can switch voltage from US 115 to Intl. 220 with just the correct fuse drawer?

For US use, I have a 693-4301.1014.03 fuse drawer in my cart as well (I think this one has the voltage selector for 110/220). For the US, I believe we only fuse the hot and not the neutral. Does this look like what I want?

Thanks!

No, and I also only fuse the hot. For 2-pole fuse you need this rather.
For switching between 120/240 I use "my voltage selector"  ...  ;o)

OK, color me confused. I had the 1-pole fuseholder/2-pole switch variant in my cart (DD11.0114.1110). Why would I want the one for 2-pole fuseholder (DD11.0124.1110) if I am only fusing the hot (line)?

The fuseholder I had in my cart was a 2-pole, I suppose if I went with the 0114.1110 I would want the 1 pole fuseholder 693-4301.1405, without a voltage selection switch?

Schurter's application notes (lack of) leaves a bit to be desired, and of course, I'm an idiot

I use this for all my builds: Schaffner FN1394-10-05-11 (out of stock at Mouser at the moment but available from other stores). It's a bit bulky, but has everything I want: solid switch, two-fuse holder, voltage selector (just flip the fuse drawer), and quick-connect terminals (five: one safety earth and two per primary winding). The wiring diagram is printed right on the unit and easy to follow.

That’s what I’ve used in a couple of builds, it really nice solution, only thing is it’s huge.

7 hours ago, Pars said:

Why would I want the one for 2-pole fuseholder (DD11.0124.1110) if I am only fusing the hot (line)?

I guess you don't. I was anticipating you wanted to fuse both Live and Neutral using the two fuse container - I see you want the second fuse as a backup rather.

Out of interest, does anyone know of a voltage selector for 100-115-230V. I have two 115V primaries with 100V taps. I just use jumpers for now.

Ugliest build....  

Aluminum sheets from e-bay.   

Edited May 29, 20179 yr by Inu

Need more info on those DIY 'stats, stat! 

What's the small board with the terminal blocks for?

Small board is for +/-15V.    Small one on the right is 5/20/30 sec timer board (PIC).

For the electrostatic headphone, please refer the following forum.

https://www.head-fi.org/f/threads/my-diy-electrostatic-headphones.498292/

 

On 5/19/2017 at 4:22 AM, Flyingsparks said:

Out of interest, does anyone know of a voltage selector for 100-115-230V. I have two 115V primaries with 100V taps. I just use jumpers for now.

Something like this might work.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Schurter/00334008/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduihk5dBPFaZ3jXB40YPySVKreK65vfJjII%3d

That particular one is 100-115-230

10 hours ago, Inu said:

Ugliest build....  

Aluminum sheets from e-bay.   

Nothing wrong with functional design.......