Beautiful!

Is that going to be an electronic case of some type?

BTW, you're in Arkansas, not Louisiana. 

6 minutes ago, swt61 said:

 

Is that going to be an electronic case of some type?

I think it's a tail vice

12 minutes ago, swt61 said:

Beautiful!

Is that going to be an electronic case of some type?

BTW, you're in Arkansas, not Louisiana. 

 

5 minutes ago, dsavitsk said:

I think it's a tail vice

Doug has it. Figure I would add some French flair since it is a Roubo. Plus adding a trailer home or dead squirrel would have been to much work. 

Edited October 26, 20214 yr by naamanf

That's your fucking vice?

One of them. Test fiting in place meow. 

Definitely see how Steve thought that was an XLR Jack and two RCAs

13 minutes ago, luvdunhill said:

Definitely see how Steve thought that was an XLR Jack and two RCAs

Looking back I can see it as well now. 

It is a safe assumption to make, who would think a magic ping pong table even knows how to function a vice?

21 minutes ago, VPI said:

It is a safe assumption to make, who would think a magic ping pong table even knows how to function a vice?

It's magical, so of course it can.

One only needs the correct magic paddle to control the ping pong table...

A collaboration with a certain northeastern master semiretired circle hole cutter, I present a panel ammeter that has a plain, not hip rgb light source.

working on a second so we can compare two different dials and will play a bit with the LED backlight placement 

 

 

Marc, what's the piece of gear in the background, with the Red LED bars?

It reminds me of a surround amp that I had back in the 80's. You could completely control the delay of the two surround speakers. It wasn't as intelligent as the old Yamaha units, but you could get some interesting effects. 

It was made by NEC, which seemed odd, even then.

3 minutes ago, swt61 said:

Marc, what's the piece of gear in the background, with the Red LED bars?

Looks like 000 on a numerical display...? 

Ah, zooming in I see it now. I thought it was horizontal bars.

.. and updated version of my optical speed controller sensor! The original sensor I was using was a victim to pandemic stock levels and I wasn’t happy with the IR filter used. This version also was designed to fit into half of a small enclosure - I would put a sticker or label over the trimmer in the end (or use fixed resistors) but needed to have it available to prototype the comparator sensitivity. I will probably glue dot it to the plinth, no components are soldered to the bottom of the board.
 

I did spec out a actual jack on the board, but having issues finding a mini stereo connector that is more or less the same diameter as the barrel, ensuring it doesn’t stick out below the enclosure - not sure if anyone has a recommendation there. In fact a male-female extension cable that is low profile would work just fine too

 

 

 

@luvdunhill - was thinking some more about the meter pic posted above and the "hidden" nature of the needle, how hard or accessible is the needle and would some whiteout or white paint be an easy solution to make its position more visible against the black backdrop?

Depending on the aesthetic you are going for, you could also paint just the tip.

3 hours ago, n_maher said:

@luvdunhill - was thinking some more about the meter pic posted above and the "hidden" nature of the needle, how hard or accessible is the needle and would some whiteout or white paint be an easy solution to make its position more visible against the black backdrop?

I could probably do that pretty easily! I would need some pretty steady hands though

A small project I did some time ago. DIY solder station for Weller WMRP soldering pen. Check this http://kair.us/projects/weller/index.html .

I ordered ten PCBs, same price as for the one I needed. If you want to try this, ping me and I send you a board for just shipping costs and I pay same amount to Doctors Without Borders. 

Does it work? Yes, only for fine smd jobs. Have I used it? No, not really. Why build it then? Because you can.

Finally got the output stage of my amp at least somewhat functioning. Spent a solid few weeks scratching my head and thinking I screwed something up. Nope, both 45 tubes I have had bad heaters. Bought another tube and now everything is as it should be. Next stop: find some output transformers.

I successfully designed (Fusion360) and printed my first part on Wednesday.  It's an adapter to transform the diameter of a cyclone dust separator that I'm printing for use with the Shapeoko as my had and I are going to use the machine to make parts/pieces for a quad of Adirondack chairs this winter.  

Stock part left, my part right.

 

Combined

Assembled with 2/3's of the separator, the third piece is printing now and should be done in about 12 hours.  Then I have to print one more each of the nozzle/hose pieces.

 

Very nice Nate!

Building some cabinet doors. Trying to decide between 1/4 birch plywood and mdf for the panels. Rail and stiles are Poplar. All doors are going to be painted.

Any sage advice?

19 minutes ago, VPI said:

Building some cabinet doors. Trying to decide between 1/4 birch plywood and mdf for the panels. Rail and stiles are Poplar. All doors are going to be painted.

Any sage advice?

Plywood. More durable, especially at 1/4”. Usually HDF is used for one piece machined doors. I plan on trying some of those soon for a vanity. 
 

Nate - Amazing work. I’m slowly cutting my teeth on Fusion but so far really like it. 

Edited November 29, 20214 yr by naamanf

MDF is cheaper, moves less, and is easier to work with. It is also more likely to come apart in a damp environment. I personally would probably do ply, but MDF is probably the right choice.