Right, so my question is is how thick of a board can be used and have the plastic clip part snap into the board. I am not as worried about the solder pin length.

13 hours ago, luvdunhill said:

 

I saw that, but it said "recommended piercing plan". I have the part and it's really hard to measure. It could probably work with a slightly thicker PCB. I am thinking Kerry used these connectors and perhaps he used a > 1.57mm board and can provide some insight.

 

I like these connectors.  I've only used the vertical with 1.6mm boards, but there was plenty of extra length and I would typically need to trim them.

I like these connectors.  I've only used the vertical with 1.6mm boards, but there was plenty of extra length and I would typically need to trim them.

Thanks Kerry - how thick would you venture?

You have some interesting projects going on!

Always looking for prototypers I am working on an ultra low distortion all SMD buffer, probably have a layout done in a day or so.

If you get in a bind for prototypers, always happy to help.

What kind of linear actuator or other motor and setup would one need to make spoof of the HEV1060 knob and tube raise/lowering wankfest?

Asking for a friend, of course.

9 minutes ago, mypasswordis said:

wankfest?

Did somebody call me?

Wow! I just watched a video of the HV1060 and it is too cool. 

I can't give you specific recommendations, but take a look here:  https://www.servocity.com/

They are probably your best source for putting something like this together

Me.

 

Did somebody call me?

Nah, those are just small-signal tubes - nothing to see here.

I'm sure Steve is a fan of linear actuators, and their precision linear motion

 

What's the difference between the TKD variable potentiometers and variable attenuators? I know the datasheets say they are wired differently but how does that translate in terms of application? Does one track better then the other?

The potentiometers are continuously variable pots, whereas the attenuators are stepped attenuators and made up of fixed resistors, with a fixed number of steps, so a fixed jump between steps (2dB on many of them). Other examples of stepped attenuators would be Dact, Goldmund, etc. These probably track better, but the fixed number of steps could be a problem depending upon the volumes selected, and so on.

3 hours ago, Pars said:

The potentiometers are continuously variable pots, whereas the attenuators are stepped attenuators and made up of fixed resistors, with a fixed number of steps, so a fixed jump between steps (2dB on many of them). Other examples of stepped attenuators would be Dact, Goldmund, etc. These probably track better, but the fixed number of steps could be a problem depending upon the volumes selected, and so on.

That's not what I was talking about, I think. TKD list stepped variable attenuators and variable attenuators as separate items. I noticed that they have CP600 listed in both the variable attenuators and variable potentiometers. I thought it was the same item at first but looking at the data sheet they appear different.

http://www.tkd-corp.com/products/att/pdf/cp600as-e.pdf

http://www.tkd-corp.com/products/pot/pdf/cp600ps-e.pdf

 

 

They are a detented pot.

I was going through some components for a project and realized that my trim pots were Chinese clones of Bourns (Baoter). They measure and tune fine though, look pretty decently made. Is there any major issue with using them?

If you go back a few pages, I posted something about some that I have marked Burans or something like that:

 

Thanks, for the link. I guess I'll err on the side of caution for this build and get some proper ones from mouser. But I'll keep them around for less heavy stuff, like if I want to rebuild an old stax amp and replace its one turn pots.

For moar glitz,

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Stax-Headphones-Kopfhorer-Earspeaker-Pro-Bias-Socket-Jack-Chassis-Panel-Mount-/182299104758?hash=item2a71df95f6:g:omUAAOSwn9lXJzOC

That actually looks neat!

While we're on the subject of eBay and Stax jacks, though, did anyone try these? http://m.ebay.com/itm/Stax-Headphones-Kopfhorer-Earspeaker-Normal-Bias-Socket-Jack-Chassis-Panel-Mount-/262649769923?nav=SEARCH

I am looking for a normal bias jack.

I bought the black Delrin one on ebay from knoberik and haven't had a chance to put it in an amp but it looks good quality and Stax headphones plug in fine. It looks like the same guy is making the teflon one... not sure why he made a different account.

I like these connectors.  I've only used the vertical with 1.6mm boards, but there was plenty of extra length and I would typically need to trim them.

The vertical work great with 2mm thick boards. The R/A ones just barely fit. I probably would add a bit of adhesive to make it extra secure.

You could countersink/counterbore the mounting hole slightly...

Edited October 11, 20169 yr by wink

I had another quick dumb question. Looking at a lot of the LED lit power switches, the LED's have a 12VDC rating. Since most of these are meant for things like car applications where they're running at 14-15VDC anyway, is there any reason not to just let it run a little overvolted off a 15V PSU straight?

just use a resistor in line. No reason to try seeing if and when it will burn out.

1 hour ago, Tinkerer said:

I had another quick dumb question. Looking at a lot of the LED lit power switches, the LED's have a 12VDC rating. Since most of these are meant for things like car applications where they're running at 14-15VDC anyway, is there any reason not to just let it run a little overvolted off a 15V PSU straight?

or a simple circuit with a trimmer/transistor and a couple of resistors and you can dial in the brightness...not much to it...

Thanks for the recommendations guys. It's a good point about the brightness. I almost forgot how blinding they can be depending on the manufacturer and color. Looks like I have everything in my parts box already but an LM317 to make a variable one, and they're cheap. I always like a fifty cent solution.