I consistently abuse the ratings as well. Using a 18VAC transformer with 25V caps on both sides of the CRC. The final voltage is around 26V or so. I bought some Nichicon caps and just didn't want to attempt the same scenario.. reason being, in the 25mm diameter you go from 22mF to 15mF if you go up a rating. Don't try that at home though.

Nice Marc, though 85C

The ones I ordered should be here Tuesday.

Nice Marc, though 85C [emoji4]
The ones I ordered should be here Tuesday.

I am sure that rating is generous as well

Tried out a supplier that I hadn't used in quite awhile for some GRLV parts: Arrow

Their prices, at least on what I ordered, were better than Mouser (15%, maybe more). And free ground shipping. They seemed to have better qty price breaks as well.


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Yeah, I have noticed the same - especially on semiconductors.

I have a Chicago Grayhill key-operated 4 gang switch I was thinking about using as a volume pot bypass. That way I could have my amp direct drive or not like the switch inside some of the STAX amps like the 727. Is this a terrible idea? I know it's dead in the signal path, but I don't know how much it would affect the sound if at all. It's a quality rotary switch, made to last a hundred thousand operations.

I was originally going to use it as a main power switch but the rating is too low.

You mean you want to use the switch to bypass the volume pot and go straight in with no attenuation? I wouldn't think the switch would be audible in the signal path.


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5 hours ago, Pars said:

You mean you want to use the switch to bypass the volume pot and go straight in with no attenuation?

Exactly.

 

5 hours ago, Pars said:

I wouldn't think the switch would be audible in the signal path.

Perfect. Thanks.

If you turn the volume pot all the way up wouldn't that serve the same purpose as bypassing the pot?

Basically, but it's a neat gimmick to remove the pot from the audio path if using a preamp and I already have the part.

You'll probably have to wire it up so it switches the pot in or bypasses it, so the switch will always be in the signal path. I don't think you would want to wire it so that the switch just shorts out the pot, as the pot would still be in parallel and might have some effect on the sound?

This was what I was thinking. With the pot left hanging in the bypass position, shouldn't make any difference right?

I had another general question for anyone who has used rod extensions for their potentiometers or attenuators. How essential are panel bearings? Do you use them at all or just have pretty tight tolerances in the hole of the front panel?

this deal seems pretty good for 135, Fluke 117 Electricians True RMS Multimeter:

https://slickdeals.net/share/iphone_app/fp/243635

I'd probably buy something used like a Fluke 87 or 89 (or the 1xx or 2xx versions of these) instead.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fluke-87-III-multimeter-/222331189225?hash=item33c3f8b7e9:g:nLIAAOSwB09YPxDk

17 minutes ago, Pars said:

I'd probably buy something used like a Fluke 87 or 89 (or the 1xx or 2xx versions of these) instead.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fluke-87-III-multimeter-/222331189225?hash=item33c3f8b7e9:g:nLIAAOSwB09YPxDk

Agreed.

Anyone know and can recommend reliable sources for NOS XF2 Mullard EL34? What's reasonable price to pay for a matched quad? 

Have been thinking about getting a set so I don't kick myself 5 years from now...

Let me know if you find some, please.

http://www.audiotubes.com/el34.htm

Anyone know where I can get an extra 50VA toroid mounting dish?

Apparently at Mouser - Hammond sells them.

One thing about the hammond sets, they're really nice but the main screw is not always the right size for certain transformers. Sometimes the washer too. Like with toroidy transformers matched by VA, the rubber pads are the right size, but the screw is too big for the M6 hole, and for some the washer needs a little ear cut off to account for the transformer leads .

On 12/9/2016 at 0:41 AM, dsavitsk said:

http://www.audiotubes.com/el34.htm

Exchanged e-mails with Brent. He does not have enough XF2 Mullard EL34 on hand to make a matched quad at this time. 

https://tubedepot.com/  - Claim they match up to 9 tubes for free??? Also have Philips Miniwatt metal base tubes.

1 hour ago, JoaMat said:

https://tubedepot.com/  - Claim they match up to 9 tubes for free??? Also have Philips Miniwatt metal base tubes.

I saw that and they were offering 15% discount over Thanksgiving and now 10% discount over Christmas which makes their price "acceptable" for those XF2 EL34. 

I bought some KenRad 6SN7GT from them a few years ago and now regularly receive e-mail informercial from them. The 6SN7 I received seem fine. Cannot speak to the XF2 EL34 though. Anyone has experience with them and can vouch one way or the other? 

I did pull the trigger on a quad of NOS Tesla EL34 with Brent. Anyone has experience with these tubes and can share your impressions?