Do It Yourself

Hey everyone, I was wondering if anyone on here makes wooden grado cups as I have a pair of Turbulence X drivers and am in need of some wooden cups to help complete my Magnums I'm building. I have very positive trader feedback on head-fi if anyone is willing to help me out. Cheers, Erich

Last year I built a pair of balanced cables to go between my Theta Pre and Classe amp. After they broke in, I was really surprised how good they sounded. I used DH Labs Pro Studio and a set of Neutrik connectors. The ground is connected at both ends. I've read that sometimes floating the ground is not a bad idea. I now realize that I could probably live with this cable for a while. Yeah, I like it! I also need to move my gear from it's current location (in between the speakers) to it's new home, in a rack along the wall and off of the damned floor. New rack is in the works. Anyway, I ordered a nice 50 foot section of DH Labs Pro Studio from Parts Connexi…

Time to make some cables. I want to cover them in the soft nylon stuff. What sizes would I need for the following: 1) 4-conductor 22 or 24 AWG braid 2) Over regular Mogami Thanks!

So, I have some nice shiny TO-3 transistors. I'd like to make a PCB with these as output devices and some sort of way to transfer heat via flange that I can mount to a heat sink. I have to admit I've never used this package, so I'm curious.... assuming I cannot mount the can on the fin side of the heat sink (which would require way to much milling and effort), what sort of ways are there to deal with this? Second question, and not at all related to the above... any recommendations for a relatively low voltage CCS? Let's say 60V and 3A or so as extreme parameters. Thanks!

I spent the better part of last weekend researching amps for a new pair of headphones. Reading other people's reviews and seeing their pics is fun, but figuring out whether the amp outputs enough power or if the damping factor is >= 8, well that's tedious. So what started as a few formulas on paper eventually (over the span of a week) turned into a website that calculates all this for you. It's a tool I built for myself, but I hope you'll find it useful too: www.audiobot9000.com

I want to tackle and finally finish this PINT amp I recently acquired. It's old school and I scored the board for next to nothing, so what the heck. I know the project ended up ceasing because of the crankiness of the 8397. There’s got to be a way to tame this thing. At this point, I’m not sure if I’ve fried the opamps, but I can say that the 8397 gets very very hot. I’m using the LM6172 as my GND channel opamp and this is getting quite warm as well. This is when I power the amp with at least 18v or 24v. I'm getting an unusual amount of DC Offset -- basically the rail supply for each reading that I've done. At first the amp seemed to work but music sounded hollow and not …

Hello everyone, I'm sorry to start another thread here but maybe someone will know what I'm looking for. As you might remember, I built a Dynalo, it has been cased since. So it sounds quite good, but the real question is: could it sound better ? Here comes the idea to build a three way Dynalo with active ground, just like B

the stock cable on my sennheiser HE-60's is starting to fail (intermittent right channel) normally I recable all my headphones with mogami 2534 but I am worried about sending 600V down that cable... so I am wondering what kind of cable would be appropriate? or would the 2534 probably be ok?

I see that Panavises are highly recommended by a number of you. What base/head combination would you suggest as an initial purchase? The circuit board holder looks great, but there doesn't seem to be much expandability. I was thinking the model 350 (tray base, wide jaws) might be a better option because it can take a wire holder. Do the wide jaws work well for PCBs? Is the soldering station useful? Thanks for suggestions!

For what is to become the ultimate headphone stand... http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/headstand1.jpg http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/headstand2.jpg I'm looking for more of the 2 piece tube clamps pictured. 1.5 inch diameter. These have to be a stock item somewhere, i just can't find out where.

So I was out doing errands yesterday and came across a garage sale with lots and lots of electronic stuff. Highly unusual. The guy's wife had recently passed away and he was getting rid of all of his collection over the years. Suffice it to say i bought one standard corvette's trunk worth of stuff, and will go back and get more today. Anyway he had these capacitors i had to have. He said they were for a top secret military project in the very early 1960's. There are no labels on the things, or they came off years ago. He said they were 1000 uf/5000 v caps. So i brought one into work and sure enough it really is almost exactly 1000 uf. He said they were teflon fil…

Hi all, First of all let me begin to say i am a beginner wit some detailed instuction and BOM i come pretty far. Just finished my O2 and ready for a new challange. I have a new DAP on the way with balanced output so i thought a Balanced in to out would be a great additition. So i have a few options which i cant decide which one to build. -Krell KSA5 Clone -Audiotechnica AT-HA5000 clone - "The Wire" bal-bal amplifier OR the Dynalo which is pretty hard to research because his website is down. This link for instance http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/boards/ My headphones are Audeze Sine and HD650. So not that much dem…

2SC4686 can be replaced by C5502D. What is the replacement of 2SA1968 for gods?

Anyone has experience with the Ebay kits for the KGSSHV Carbon: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-supply-PCB-for-KG-Kevin-Gilmore-KGSSHV-CARBON-Electrostatic-amp-L9-50/123415369465 and https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kevin-Gilmore-KGSSHV-CARBON-Electrostatic-Headphone-amplifier-bare-PCB-L8-39/123327894674 The names contain "L9-50" and "L8-39": are these version numbers ? I'm interested in building a KGSSHV Carbon and any help is appreciated.

I'm sorry if this isn't exactly the forum for this, but I think my amp is probably REALLY similar to a headphone amp, and I trust Hi-Fi heads more than musicians... I have a 35 year old Alembic F2-B stereo pre-amp for instruments. I play my bass guitar through it, and nothing else sounds as good to me to this day. It is based on the input section of a Fender Showman Guitar Amp. The last few years I've noticed the sound seems to have progressively dulled and lost it's life. The unit also has a little hum, and is pretty noisy. I was wondering if anyone could take a look at a picture or schematic (I have both) and suggest the items I can replace which will restore…

Corvette

I have decided to go ahead and build the SR-X for my 007 MK1 and am going to be ordering boards for both the amp and PSU (ordering from pcbnet.com). If you would like an amp and/or PSU board please let me know and I will start a list. Files that were submitted are below: SR-X Board: http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/boards/srx6.zip JimL Shunt PSU (PLEASE NOTE: This is the revised board KG recently updated): http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/boards/srxshunt3.zip LIST: Knerian: 1 amp/1 psu n3rdling: 2 amp/2 psu No_One: 2 amp/2 psu VelvetX: 1 amp/1 psu gwrskien: 2 amp/2 psu kingofsnake: 0 amp…

Well, Pars once said that finding connectors it the (one of the) most boring part of DIY. Well, I can only say that finding a suitable multi-conductor cable might be a very close second. Here's what I'm looking for: total diameter 0.195" - 0.265" 6 conductor 400V will be the maximum potential carried, so I suppose 200V jacket is fine. I'm not sure the maximum conductor diameter, as I cannot find this stated specifically for the Switchcraft EN3 series Here's the "datasheet", perhaps someone else can find it. Switchcraft The funny thing is that they give 14awg ratings here: http://www.alliedelec.com/Images/Products/Datasheets/BM/SWITCHCRAFT/SWITCHCR…

I have a pair of "Cheap" helping hands with magnifier. These things you have to have but are never quite right. I also have a Panavise that I use them in conjunction with. They end up breaking and the hinges and clamps for the clips are dodgy at best. Are there any "Good" or "excellent" ones out there? I have to have the magnifier. I can't pay $300 for a set, but I would be willing to invest more than the $5.95 you pay now to get junk.

Seems like there have been a few new issues with the shunt psu and wasn't known prior to the group buy going through so I am going to be ordering boards for the KGBH PSU (ordering from pcbnet.com). If you would like a PSU board please let me know and I will start a list. Files that will be submitted are below: KGBH PSU Board: http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/boards/kgbhpsu2.zip LIST: jose: 2 psu JK47: 1 psu gwrskien: 2 psu n3rdling: 4 psu chiguy: 1 psu No_One411: 2 psu Knerian: 1 psu Arthrimus: 1 psu Wokstarr26: 2 psu VelvetX: 1 psu …

Hey guys, I ran the schematic of my moth to dsavistk and he offered some recommendations for a couple of places to upgrade the caps. Looking for 33uF 450V high quality cap, film for sure. They are cathode bypass caps. Right now there is a solen polypropylene in there, the only thing I could find which may be an improvement is the Obbligato film in oil cap, they have a 30uf and 70uF 630v. All of the really really nice film caps are around the 250v range, which I think might be risky in my amp as the schematic says for 450v, but the actual amount of voltage across that point is probably closer to 250. Also looking for a 220uF 500v cap upgrade as well that I beli…

Standard build with AD8620 for LR and 8610 for G, class A bias with JFETs, LMH6321 buffers, unity gain, 24V AC adapter. The AD8610 in the ground channel gets burning hot, and I was measuring something... DC? from power to V- or V+ of one of the leads of the 8610 and it was going back and forth. Also, the LED (this) doesn't even light up. RLED is 7.68k. I'm new to this whole thing so I'm not sure what I should be measuring and what they mean... if anyone can help I'd be forever grateful.

Hi all, Im planning to build a blue hawaiii using the version 6s bipolar amp boards (kgbhver6sbipolar.zip) and the kgsshv dual 2 new power supply, (kgsshvpssicfetdual2new.zip) Gerber files are in https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_iJFfZStuVhSE5nOHBVdTByR1k Has anyone tried this combination? will the psu provide sufficent current (the voltages are fine +-400V -+15V and 580V) Does anyone know what ratings I need for the transformer Im guessing for the secondaries 2x 6.3 5A (el34s draw about 1.5A each plus I want plenty of headroom) 2x 360V 230mA 18-0-18V 200mA Does the kgsshvpssicfetdual2new offer delayed start for…

I want to match some PRP resistors to 0.10% so I read tangent's blog on this and I need a meter with 10,000 counts or better. Is this worth doing or am I wasting my time? I was wondering what everyone else's experiences were?

I need to get a better soldering iron than the one I currently have and was wondering if there are any opinions of the Weller WP35. It looks like a decent iron and is in the price range I can afford. A full electronically controlled station is too costly so this looked ideal for me. If you know of a better iron at around the same price (no higher) please advise.